FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: fairlaniac on February 02, 2020, 04:21:39 PM
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Looking to buy a 7 qt. oil pan. Which fits a '66 Fairlane best? Milodon, Canton or Moroso. Gonna use FPA headers for now. Also, to use a windage tray/pan or not? Street car 427/484 with a few passes annually at the FE Race & Reunion?
Thanks,
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I just got a canton in the mail last week, it looks to be of nice quality. I’ve owned milodon on a Chevrolet thought it was kinda cheesy. I’m personally a fan of windage trays, especially if you’re going to turn it a bit. I’m not a fan of stacking things between the block and the pan, just because it doubles the chance of a leak. I imagine if care is taken you can keep it from leaking though.
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Milodon 31130 pan. Seems decent and the newer ones have a revised drain to get most of the oil out, but still on the side of the pan. I recommend the Canton screen tray. Even the factory tray is better than nothing. I am running a full scraper too, but you may not want to get that crazy. I do not use gaskets.
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Can you weld, or have a buddy that welds? I recently made one for my current project. I bracket race, and I wanted a little more oil control for the hard braking we do sometimes at the finish line. I like the Milodon FE pan, but it only has a baffle at the back of the sump going up a little further. You can get brand new reproduction FE oil pans for about $45 at the various Mustang/Cougar/Ford Resto stores, or EBay. The reproductions have the tie-rod reliefs too. The West Coast Classic Cougar ones come bare metal, makes it a little nicer so you don’t have to strip paint on the upper one. I bought 2, cut the sump off one. I happened to have a left over Moroso deep pickup, so I used that. You will likely have a bunch of time into fabricating this ( I did lol ), so if your time is limited you may just want to buy one. I mocked it up, cut a hole in the main upper pan for the pickup to go through, measured carefully where to cut the sump off the other pan, cut a v-notch at the back of the lower sump to fit upper pan, and time to set the location properly for the pickup depth from the bottom. Once all that was done my friend JericoGTX welded it up for me. I had him weld up the rear edge of the baffle the pan comes with to also keep oil from sloshing back. If you have a couple used FE oil pans you can of course use them.
If this interests you at all I have more pictures of making it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Jhr3pMjJ/DD9412-BB-B3-C2-4-FE9-9230-0-A4-F1-F5-A13-DA.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZWQyRk7K)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rwJx037p/41-A68-A1-D-5-F27-45-EC-8-B7-B-F01-B07557-B1-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cvvrP9xq)
Here’s the pans I used to start with:
(https://i.postimg.cc/nVBs9NDt/DA8-DC782-363-A-486-F-800-F-D10-A5133-B4-F9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BtZZdYph)
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Thatdarncat, you might think about putting some more slots or holes in there to let oil in the bottom. You might suck that lower section dry before the oil can get back down there......oil pan mods can cause pain sometimes. When Racepaks came along, we got proof of problems we always suspected with front sump pans. My car, and 90% of my customers' cars with front sump have accumulators now. It helps oil pressure on launch in front sumps, and on braking with big rear sumps, and would also help you in finish line braking. Oil pressure becomes a straight, consistent line on the data with the accumulators.
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Mr. Patrick
What accumulator do you recommend ?
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Thatdarncat, you might think about putting some more slots or holes in there to let oil in the bottom. You might suck that lower section dry before the oil can get back down there......oil pan mods can cause pain sometimes. When Racepaks came along, we got proof of problems we always suspected with front sump pans. My car, and 90% of my customers' cars with front sump have accumulators now. It helps oil pressure on launch in front sumps, and on braking with big rear sumps, and would also help you in finish line braking. Oil pressure becomes a straight, consistent line on the data with the accumulators.
Blair what do you think about a windage tray on a Moldon rear pan needed or not. Leny Mason
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Thatdarncat, you might think about putting some more slots or holes in there to let oil in the bottom. You might suck that lower section dry before the oil can get back down there......oil pan mods can cause pain sometimes. When Racepaks came along, we got proof of problems we always suspected with front sump pans. My car, and 90% of my customers' cars with front sump have accumulators now. It helps oil pressure on launch in front sumps, and on braking with big rear sumps, and would also help you in finish line braking. Oil pressure becomes a straight, consistent line on the data with the accumulators.
Thank you for the input, we can add some more holes. I do have an accumulator I planned on running.
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Thanks for the replies - went with Canton pan, pickup and screen/tray.
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I like the Moroso 3-quart accumulators. We run about 20 psi of air in the empty accumulator. With 80 psi oil pressure, it will put about 2.5 quarts in the tank before it equalizes with the engine oil pressure.
Leny, I would use the tray on the rear sump also.
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I like the Moroso 3-quart accumulators. We run about 20 psi of air in the empty accumulator. With 80 psi oil pressure, it will put about 2.5 quarts in the tank before it equalizes with the engine oil pressure.
Leny, I would use the tray on the rear sump also.
Where do you typically mount the accumulator? Does it work to move it to the trunk or up under the dash?
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That can depend on how you actuate it. Manually by hand/cable or with electric solenoid. With the electric solenoid you can mount it wherever with the only concern being the length of the supply hose. 1/2" or 5/8" recommended, 5/8" for sure on the longer runs.
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I like the Moroso 3-quart accumulators. We run about 20 psi of air in the empty accumulator. With 80 psi oil pressure, it will put about 2.5 quarts in the tank before it equalizes with the engine oil pressure.
Leny, I would use the tray on the rear sump also.
Where do you typically mount the accumulator? Does it work to move it to the trunk or up under the dash?
David, I like to put them in front of the radiator. On my Mustang, it is under the hood latch. Needs to be close to the engine in my opinion. Years ago, I got Precision Oil Pumps to do the billet filter brackets with an extra 1/2" pipe hole. He sells them. I use a 45° fitting and #10 line to get right into the main galley. The FL-1A filter will not flow backwards, as some do. I recommend the regular Motorcraft filter for the best results.
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I like the Moroso 3-quart accumulators. We run about 20 psi of air in the empty accumulator. With 80 psi oil pressure, it will put about 2.5 quarts in the tank before it equalizes with the engine oil pressure.
Leny, I would use the tray on the rear sump also.
Where do you typically mount the accumulator? Does it work to move it to the trunk or up under the dash?
David, I like to put them in front of the radiator. On my Mustang, it is under the hood latch. Needs to be close to the engine in my opinion. Years ago, I got Precision Oil Pumps to do the billet filter brackets with an extra 1/2" pipe hole. He sells them. I use a 45° fitting and #10 line to get right into the main galley. The FL-1A filter will not flow backwards, as some do. I recommend the regular Motorcraft filter for the best results.
Thanks Blair. Seems that the side-oilers have a plug on the front of the oil galley...maybe a good spot to tap into the pressure side?
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Thanks Blair. Seems that the side-oilers have a plug on the front of the oil galley...maybe a good spot to tap into the pressure side?
[/quote]That side oiler passage is pretty small....
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I like the Moroso 3-quart accumulators. We run about 20 psi of air in the empty accumulator. With 80 psi oil pressure, it will put about 2.5 quarts in the tank before it equalizes with the engine oil pressure.
Leny, I would use the tray on the rear sump also.
Where do you typically mount the accumulator? Does it work to move it to the trunk or up under the dash?
David, I like to put them in front of the radiator. On my Mustang, it is under the hood latch. Needs to be close to the engine in my opinion. Years ago, I got Precision Oil Pumps to do the billet filter brackets with an extra 1/2" pipe hole. He sells them. I use a 45° fitting and #10 line to get right into the main galley. The FL-1A filter will not flow backwards, as some do. I recommend the regular Motorcraft filter for the best results.
Thanks Blair. Seems that the side-oilers have a plug on the front of the oil galley...maybe a good spot to tap into the pressure side?
Hey David, as Blair mentioned POP offers an adapter with 1/4" & 1/2" NPT ports. If you already have one of his with the single 1/4" NPT, you can modify it yourself. I did that to mine. Drill out the existing 1/4" hole to 1/2" NPT and relocate another 1/4" NPT hole behind for a pressure gauge. Also, the factory 427 dual port adapter has the 1/4" & 1/2" NPT holes. I found a factory dual port for my setup this time to keep a more factory look. One benefit of the POP adapter is that the oil filter will be perpendicular to the pan rail for better header clearance. The factory adapters are canted.
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I have the Canton road race pan, with the windage, scraper (did not use it)
It has a 6" deep, 13" wide by 10" long sump for an 8 quart system capacity. "T" style sump to increase capacity without losing ground clearance. This pan requires our 15-821 pickup. Love the quality ! My 427 Cobra is low to the ground, so the "T'' style adds two more quarts of oil with extra low clearance. I have a newer Milodon FE "T" pan. It was used on the engine dyno but will be using my Canton. We could look up the price if you are interested.
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/products/15-820-for-ford-332-428-fe-front-t-sump-road-race-pan.html
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Thanks Blair. Seems that the side-oilers have a plug on the front of the oil galley...maybe a good spot to tap into the pressure side?
That side oiler passage is pretty small....
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Pretty sure that front passage tap into the main galley is 1/2" if I'm not mistaken? That is the biggest port available to tap in to. The side plugs are much smaller, but it's a good place to get a pressure reading from, and it reads pressure directly at the main bearings. I prefer that over a reading at the filter adapter.
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Thanks Blair. Seems that the side-oilers have a plug on the front of the oil galley...maybe a good spot to tap into the pressure side?
That side oiler passage is pretty small....
Pretty sure that front passage tap into the main galley is 1/2" if I'm not mistaken? That is the biggest port available to tap in to. The side plugs are much smaller, but it's a good place to get a pressure reading from, and it reads pressure directly at the main bearings. I prefer that over a reading at the filter adapter.
[/quote]
Correct, the fitting on the front face of the block next to the timing cover is the biggest passage there.
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The side plugs are much smaller, but it's a good place to get a pressure reading from, and it reads pressure directly at the main bearings. I prefer that over a reading at the filter adapter.
I wouldn't think you would see any measurable pressure drop checking at the side plugs vs the filter adapter on a sideoiler. They are on the same "circuit". I would agree it would be worth checking at the mains on a top oiler if you had the option. Us top oiler guys aren't so fortunate. ;)
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Just as an aside & something to watch if you make your own. This is something I found when I made my own 'T' pan. The very front face of the sump is laid back toward the bottom. I cut this off when I fitted the front plate for my 'T' section so it basically continued straight down and met the very bottom at a right angle. I welded straight across.
Everything was fine & I put the engine back in the car. Not sure what I was doing but I bounced on the front suspension....knock, knock. Yep, the fore & aft movement of the sway bar during suspension travel means it now hits the sump! That's what the laid back area was for! I got around it by shortening the sway bar links to reposition it. But while the engine is out this time I will be laying that area back.