Unable to bleed the throw out bearing on my 1999 Ranger 3.0 5 speed.  I replaced the clutch and throw out bearing three weeks ago.  I pulled the inner fender panel and removed the master cylinder so that any air trapped in it (because it normally sits at a 60-75 degree angle) could get out.  I tried working the master cylinder and pulling a vacuum with a hand vacuum (as much as 25 pounds)  I have not gotten more than a few drops of fluid out of the throw out bearing bleed screw.
Master cylinder worked fine before I changed the clutch.  How can I tell if the problem is the new throw out bearing or the master cylinder?

No one has these inlet tubes. 

Would a Morso inlet 62522 fit?

Does anyone have a recommendation for header flanges for the BBM head?
Thanks

Cleveland to FE intake manifold adapter by Jay.  Part # 13001, S/N 0046 originally sold in 2014.  In the original FE Power box.  Complete with the instructions and adapter installation bolts. $800 plus shipping.
I’ll be driving to California next week and to Minnesota within a month.  If you are not in a hurry, I can ship from a place that will minimize the shipping cost.

10/30/23:  Edited to correct the name

rvsprowl at  gmail.com

Reference: Doug Benders drawing - http://www.fairlanet.com/images/pinion-angle-fairlane.jpg from his post.
I’m getting ready to install a straight front axle and move the rear “frame rails” for a narrowed 9-inch rear end under a ’66 Falcon sedan.  I’ve never done this, nor have I talked to anyone that has.  I was aware of and understand the front-end alignment issues.  I don’t want to overlook something that those who have done this often would know. 
I’ve been watching YouTube videos and know I may need to change to front steer and relocate the steering box, etc.
I originally planned to have the body level with the rear raised for 15” large drag slicks and the front axle lowered using somewhat smaller 14-inch or 15-inch tires.  This stance would put the intake manifold’s carb pad at the stock angle and the drive shaft and pinion angles should be close to stock (I hoped). 
But is that best for racing?  When I leave the starting line, the front of the car will rise a lot and the gas in the fuel bowls would move to the rear and the center line floats would be working at a difficult angle.  Would it be better to have the car sit nose down and when it left the line the car would not be so nose high?  Or am I over thinking this?  As I write this, I suspect I am.
Constructive suggestions and comments will be welcomed.

I want to ship a 43 pound torque plate to England.  I built a wooden box for it and the package weight is 56 pounds. Fedex/UPS is quoting a $300 to $550 to ship it via Air. 

Ground (actually shipping vis a ship) would be OK.  How do I get find a shipper?

I recently got a '66 Falcon which I'll probably make into my primary drag car.  The hood is rotten with rust so I'll probably get a fiber glass one from USBody.  They offer a discount on scoops if purchased with the hood.  I've never had a hood with a scoop.  I'll probably need one for the tunnel ram.

The styles I'm considering are the Thunderbolt about 4" high, the Hemi with an open front about 4.5 inches high, and the Aero - a gasser style to me - either 4.5 or 9 inches high. 

Would 4 inches give me enough room or do I need to go to the 9 inch aero?

I want to coat the floor in my new shop before I use it.  I want something that will allow easy clean up of spills. 

Water glass (Calcium Silicate) and epoxy paint have been suggested.  What are you guys using?

Jay what are you using in the chicken coop?