Header fitment recommendation. Never mind. Problem solved...(with pictures!)

[AlanCasida]

I am in the middle of detailing the engine compartment on my 1967 F250 with a 390. I currently have Hooker Comp headers on it and I guess I had forgotten what all was involved in getting them out. Along with unbolting the starter(which won't come out separately) I had to pick the engine way to get them out. I know that doesn't sound like a lot but my Dragweek sense was tingling and I thought what a mess that would be to change the starter on the side of the road.  Is there a header out there that fits a little better? Ideally I would like to be able to pull the starter without pulling the header but from what I have been looking at that seems to be asking a lot. Or be able to pull the header with out having to jack the motor up.

[Mr Woodys Garage]

Without having your truck in front of me to look at, would it be possible to modify the engine mount tower on the passenger side to be easily removable, as in do something with the mounting bolts to make removal of the mount tower not such a big deal where the starter could be brought forward once it was un bolted? Yes, you would still have to raise, or at least support the engine a bit to facilitate removal of the mount tower, but it would be much easier, once re engineered, than unhooking the exhaust and removing the header. Just A Thought, Had a 68  In Highschool With headman headers, they fit and sounded great, but, like all headers, were prone to leaks and typical header issues.

[cjshaker]

I used Hedman's on my '68 F250 Highboy, and I could get the starter out easily. The body was lifted 3", so all I had to do was reach between the fenderwell and frame, unbolt it, and it would slide right out. Never even had to crawl under the truck. Only problem is, I don't know how different it would be on your 2 wheel drive. The crossmembers are different, so this may not help you at all.

[AlanCasida]

Problem solved! I cut #4 tube and will make it a slip fit. It's a little tight but I can get the starter in/out from the top without unbolting the headers.  Since the header runs out above the mid crossmember lifting the motor for header install is the only option. But as long as I can get starter in/out I'm happy.

[SSdynosaur]

Personally, I prefer studs w/nuts in the center and lower bell housing/starter mount positions as they assist in readily establishing starter alignment. I use a bolt in the upper position since, at least for me, it seems less difficult after positioning the starter on the exposed studs.