Cleanliness of block

[Boiler Ben]

I’m a little concerned about what I saw in my engine and could use some advice.  I bought a short block so when I got it, the block had already been prepped and the crankshaft and pistons installed.  I installed the cam and degreed it.  Then I turned it over to check out the underside while I wait on some parts.

I chased the threads for the pan and the pump and they were all pretty good.  The pump ones had some oily grime on them and I’m trying to get them clean enough for locktite. Anyway, I saw some casting flash in the block and felt around to see if any of it was loose.  When I run my finger along the block in some spots, I get some fine metal shavings.  There’s not a lot and the cylinders look fine.  I thought about trying to wipe them with a rag.  Then thought maybe a magnet would pick them up better.  Then thought maybe waving a magnet in there might just magnetize the little bits and make them stick better to the block.

Without doing anything too drastic, maybe I wipe up what I can, use a drain plug with a magnet on it, and expect to see some bits after the first oil change?  I wanted to get some advice before moving forward.

[machoneman]

I'd wipe out all that I could. Ideally though, I'd take it all apart for cleaning. 

[pbf777]

I'd take it all apart for cleaning.

     +1   

     Scott.

[GerryP]

Even a clean block is still pretty dirty with sand and metal.  A consequence of sand casting and machining operations.  It is nearly impossible to get a block clean enough unless you're a pro team on NASCAR or F1 and have someone go through it with tiny picks.  I know people think painting the block inside with Glyptal was to aid oil drain back.  It might have helped a tiny bit with that.  Painting of the block and heads was to seal the block up and prevent any casting and machining debris from falling loose and going through the engine.  It takes some time to do, but it is worth it for some applications.  You give the block a good cleaning with a high detergent to get out as much oil as you can, blow it dry, wipe it out with lint-free cloths they apply the paint. 

[Boiler Ben]

I bought a short block because I thought I could handle the assembly process from that point forward.  Disassembling it all the way for cleaning is a big deal so I want to make sure that’s necessary before going down that path.

[shady]

If it's not oily, you can run a tack cloth around or even wrap it in a magnet. Nothing cleans a new block like oil circulating through it. On a new GM engine I bought a few years ago, they recommended changing the oil after the first 10 to 15 miles, then again after 500 miles. I think you're fine.

[cjshaker]

Black residue is one thing, but metal shavings is another. That block is not "clean". Some feel confident in having the filter catch the debris, but I would not. Filters will often go into bypass mode on startup, and carry all the trash with it. We've all seen scored bearings and journals from debris, and the only way that can happen is for the filter to let it pass through.

Having bought the block put together, you're putting a lot of faith in the assembler. The problem is, unless you know the person to be honest and trustworthy, there are way too many people who will just throw something together and pass it off as a good build. I've seen too many people get burned when trust is misplaced.

[machoneman]

One more thought: take some paper towels and ATF. Wet each cylinder by hand and wipe the walls. If the paper shows gray material (from honing) then I would definitely take it all apart. 

[Boiler Ben]

Can you guys help me wrap my head around what the cleaning process would look like?  Cam out, pistons and rods out, crank out.  Main bearings out? Can cam bearings stay in?

[Jb427]

remove all the oil galley plugs grab a engine cleaning kit from your local parts shop that should get you a few sizes of brushes like what is used to clean a gun barrel warm soapy water and scrub it with a brush run the pipe cleaning brushes down all the holes use water compressed air to blow them out. Once washed blow dry with compressed air wipe bores with lint free cloth spray with wd40 or you can use new engine oil to wipe on any machined surface to stop any rust starting wipe clean with lint free cloth and put it back together

Be sure to mark everything so any parts you take off go back in the same spot they came out of.
lykins motorsports youtube should have some info that may help on oil galley plugs what ones need sealer and what ones need loctite and assembly lube.

[Boiler Ben]

Can the cam bearings stay in place during all of this?

[DuckRyder]

One more thought: take some paper towels and ATF. Wet each cylinder by hand and wipe the walls. If the paper shows gray material (from honing) then I would definitely take it all apart.

What was the result of this?

Whoever built the short block should have done this cleaning.

in a perfect world the cam bearings would be out, but you can do it with them in. Don't put anything caustic on them and don't brush them IMO.

[Boiler Ben]

I didn’t wipe down the cylinder walls yet.  If I do and get a clean result there, would that mean I might skip the full tear down and just clean the spots I see as best I can?

Thank you for the advice BTW. Don’t know what I’d do without the great advice on this forum.

[DuckRyder]

I should say i'm not a professional engine builder and you're getting some answers form people who are on your threads.

Also written descriptions are a poor substitute for being there, touching and feeling and this is a matter of degrees, as has been said actual metal chips are a very bad sign, but are we talking one or two or fifty?

Personally - if the bores came out clean I'd feel better about it and might just hose it out with kerosene, brake cleaner or other cleaner being careful to avoid the cam and bearings that were pre-lubed.

If on the other hand they don't come out clean, Id consider that and indication that basically no cleaning was done. and it HAD to come apart.

For a lot of us this is NBD, but if you weren't comfortable building it how comfortable are you disassemble and reassemble?

There's a lot of help here, and a couple good books notably Barrys book and the Steve Christ book.

[Jb427]

Boiler ben you could go about this another way if you don't think you have the tools or you are worried about messing something up. You could take the short block to a local engine builders shop ask them to strip the block and hotwash it and put it back together I would think that should be cheap.

Just ask them to let you know if they see anything that needs to be fixed.

If I bought a Rebuilt short block and I found it to be dirty inside I would look deeper now is the time to check.

[Thumperbird]

Is it hydraulic roller?
Not that there are not many other reasons to disassemble and clean but some hydraulic rollers are super sensitive to debris due to tight tolerances, ask me how I know?
I built my own, thought I had a spotless block but it was a home shop cleanup and guess what, fought a sticky roller, not worth taking the chance in my opinion if it is.
 

[Boiler Ben]

It is a hydraulic roller cam. Between Brent’s videos and Barry’s books and all the other experts on this forum, I am gaining confidence to do the disassembly, clean, and reassembly. If I can leave the cam bearings in place, it should be straightforward. Soapy water will get on them but otherwise I don’t plan to touch them. It sounds like I should remove the screwed in galley plugs. Can I leave the big pressed in cam plug?

[Jb427]

It is a hydraulic roller cam. Between Brent’s videos and Barry’s books and all the other experts on this forum, I am gaining confidence to do the disassembly, clean, and reassembly. If I can leave the cam bearings in place, it should be straightforward. Soapy water will get on them but otherwise I don’t plan to touch them. It sounds like I should remove the screwed in galley plugs. Can I leave the big pressed in cam plug?

You can clean it without removing those parts and water will not effect those parts. Like others have said just don't use a harsh brush on cam bearings or the bores.

[GerryP]

And don't use any cleaners with lye, like Easy Off.  The lye will eat the cam bearing platings.

[Boiler Ben]

Oh, good.  If I can leave all the plugs in place, that makes life simpler.  Any special way to get water to drain out other than using air hose to dry and turning it over?

[Falcon67]

One trick, if you are not pulling the galley plugs nor taking it apart - is to put the oil pump on, temp hang the pan, put some diesel in the pan and run the pump while rotating the engine. 

If you wipe the cylinders with white towels and ATF and you find gray, I would highly-highly recommend taking it all apart and scrubbing the hell out of it. A 5 gallon "Homer bucket" with a warm water + hefty dose of Dawn dish soap, an array of nylon bristle brushes and a water hose with a sprayer and have a scrub-a-dub party.  The blow it out with air, empty a couple cans of WD-40 in the process with the air to displace water.  Then scrub the cylinders with ATF and white towels until clean.  Some fine particles will get caught in the filter.  But all it takes is a little chunk small enough to make it past the pickup screen and  you'll be very unhappy.  Been there, fixed that - last year.

Couple of small particles from a broken spring seat cup, one which made it to the pump bypass and jammed it partially open.  Had about 5 psi on the gauge when driving it into the trailer. 

[Boiler Ben]

So my plan is to disassemble everything except the cam bearings and galley plugs.  Clean, dry, and lube the block thoroughly. Then reassemble everything the way it was, keeping everything in the same location.