Hey guys (and gals).
Wanted to throw this one up here for a little discussion.
Haven't pulled the transmission yet, but had an interesting thing happen last week. I had a mobile locksmith come to the house to make me a second transponder key. When I purchased the can, it only came with one key and I need a second transponder key for a little side project I will discuss at a later time (once I have finished it).
So in preparation for the locksmith, I pulled the car out of the garage into the driveway. Its important to note that I did not rev the engine, just started it...... backed it out and let it run at idle for about 15 minutes. I only let it idle to get the fluids moving around as it spends large periods of time just sitting.
I had noticed after the 15 minutes that there were NO Oil Drips at all..... while it was idling, for the full 15 min. I then shut the engine off and the car sat in the driveway in the same spot for another 3 hours. After the 3 hours, I checked again and there was no oil at all.
I am 100% sure
Now for the interesting part. After the locksmith had gone, I had to pull the car into the garage again..... however, this time since it was going to be a while before starting again, I revved the engine up to about 2500 RPM just to raise the oil pressure in the accumulator before shutting the switch and locking in the oil charge for the next time I start the car. When I shut the car off, I noticed a few drips on the garage floor.
Sooooo......
1) car does not leak oil just sitting as previously thought.
2) car does not leak oil at idle (1000 RPM)
3) car does start to leak oil when the RPM's are raised- in this example, 2500 RPM
This to me sounds like the rear main seal is good. It seems like excess crankcase pressure is pushing oil past the rear main seal at elevated RPM's?

Its worth noting that both of the Valve Covers have 1.5" to 2" breather tubes coming out of them and I put K&N style breather filters on them (as I was told the OEM breather caps were very restrictive..... Have not seem any oil or oily residue at all on the top of the engine, so none is getting through the breather caps.....
The valley of the Cammer block does not have the hole provisions for lifters, so there is no venting or pressure under the intake manifold....
The front timing chain cover connects to the oil pan in the front of the engine and each head has a 2" round passage in the front which would allow crankcase pressure to be directed from the front of the oil pan, up through the timing chain cover, through the round passage on the drivers and passenger head and out the breather tubes on the valve covers. Doesnt seem super restrictive.
The only thing I can think of is of I remove the breather filters on each breather tube on the valve covers and look down into the tubes, its not wide open. There is a metal seal in the middle of each tube with only a small triangle shaped piece pressed down a little. I am thinking this is so you don't accidentally drop something down there while filling the car up with oil. I wonder if this is too restrictive. I am thinking of pulling each tube and then drilling a grid pattern of small holes to allow more pressure to escape?
I am rambling now. What do you guys think? Does it sound like excess crankcase pressure? I want to test, but unsure how (what to block off while testing or what not to).
Also, what is normal or acceptable crankcase pressure in a ford FE? I run like 11 quarts of oil with the accumulator, so not much room (if any) between the windage tray and the oil when engine is off, I am guessing with the size of a Cammer engine, most of that oil will be pumped up to the top and be draining back down when running so engine oil level will be much lower when the engine is running.
Alot of information here. Any thoughts???/?

Greatly appreciated
