I've been collecting pieces for a while to do this.....I've wanted to do a "max effort" 352 all my life. Here's what I have on my mind, and about half of it ordered, or on the floor now.

* Sleeved down "worn out" 427 block
* Scat forged 3.5 stroke forged crank
* Crower 6.590 length billet rods Honda 1.888 journal
* CP pistons with domes to fit Pro Port chamber
* "Race" version BP Pro Ports 2.200/1.600 valves
* 52cc combustion chambers
* 14.5 static compression
* Steel bushed T&D
* .937 Crower Enduramax bushed lifters
* .900 lift, 60 mm Comp Eliminator profile camshaft
* Danny Bee belt drive
* Worked BBM tunnel wedge
* Two 1030 cfm 4150 carbs

Planning for 10,000+ rpm.  I am building this for my own toy, but if one of the Gasser guys wants it, I will probably sell it.  It's just something I have always wanted to do, so I think over the next six months we are going to try to work it in. The goal is 2.3 to 2.5 hp per cube.  Stay tuned.......

I am an old dog at this point, and I have been religious in my use of Valvoline VR1 for a long time.  We bought Valvoline racing oil way back when you needed a screwdriver to poke two holes in the top to pour it in.......unless you had one of those fancy pour spouts.

Amsoil was the required oil (and a major sponsor) for Engine Masters.  They sent us oil to test with, and furnished oil for the contest.  I was reluctant, but I used it from beak-in, to their synthetic......through our 24 test pulls.  We had to show up dry, and they gave us oil at the contest to prevent the possibility of performance enhancing additives. 

I looked at the break in oil and first filter pretty closely.  I also looked at the second filter and first oil change closely.  I liked what I was seeing. We made 9 or 10 more pulls in the 35 minute scoring window at the contest.  We had to pull a rod and piston for teardown at EMC.  My suspicion was confirmed.  The rod bearing litterally looked like it had not been run. There are of course factors of supply, clearance, and temperature that contribute, but the oil definitely did what it was intended to do. I have a very high opinion of the Amsoil now, and thought I would mention here that it is worth looking at for both a break-in and a "run" oil.  Very happy with it!

I realize this is the wrong spot but I am trying to find a Jay timing cover with the removable front plate as soon as possible.  Mr. Jay can send me one, but not before next Friday.  I need one in my hand by Wednesday to do some testing on my Engine Masters junk.  If you have one on the shelf and would be willing to send it to me, I will replace it.  Another can be in your hand in about ten days.  I will pay all shipping.  If you can help, please PM me on here.  Any assistance much appreciated. I apologize for using up the space on the tech page, but trying to make this happen......

BP

I am interested in unmilled C4AE-G head castings.  Probably can still use if they have had a valve job or two, as long as the valve size was stock.  I just finished some new cnc programs for 2.150 and 2.09 intake valves, and 1.65 exhaust. I can use milled ones, but would have to shim them in the fixture.  I want to sell some of these after some more testing.  These programs will work on C6-R, Cobra Jet N heads, and many other Low Riser style castings. I just need the G casting heads for a particular purpose I have gotten myself into.  If you have castings you want to part with, heads you would like to have ported, or would like to buy ported ones, you can contact me at captcj at hughes dot net.

Thanks very much.....

Blair Patrick

I am in need of two OE damper spacer sleeves for a 429-460.  If you have a couple you would part with, shoot me an email.  Thanks very much. captcj at hughes dot net.

I have a few extra sets of Crower HIPPO roller lifters, and some extra steel Scat 4.250 crankshafts.  Also a fresh pallet of BBM head castings.  If we can help you, email is captcj at hughes dot net. Thanks

Hey Werby, do you have specs for mid 60's 427/300 hp marine cams in your file?  I am going through a standard rotation engine.  I want to convert it to a hydraulic roller.  I will upgrade it, but just curious of the original specs.  We will, at some point, do the reverse engine......I'll have to use a round lobe core to make a reverse rotation hydraulic roller, but first things first......thanks for any info you can share...

I keep a few "shop jobs" working through the process in addition to customer jobs.  I have a few here nearing completion.  If any of these catch your interest, give me a holler.

1) 466 cube street stroker.  Really nice "A" scratch 428 block, 4.250 stroker.  It is fresh .050 over, really nice cylinders, CP pistons, Scat 9000 crank, Scat rods with 2000 bolts, internal balance. Well preserved block, no rust, nice lifter bores, oil mods.  I am at the point of selecting heads and camshaft.  Will finish to suit.

2) 385 cube street 390 based engine.  400 rods, hypereutectic pistons with custom ring pack.  Short duration hydraulic roller already in there.  4.090 bore.  Ready for top end.  Would prefer to finish per your needs.

3) Nice 390 shortblock.  It is technically a "legal Stocker" shortblock.  Full prepped Ford rods, CP pistons, sitting ready for a cam and top end to fit the intended use.  I was going to use this engine in the Dueling 390s 2.0, but I plan to build another with billet rods for that..... the rpm and power level of the solid rollers may not be a good fit for this one.  It is prime real estate for a healthy flat tappet or hyd roller.

You can PM me here or email at captcj at hughes dot net if any of these strike your fancy.

Thanks much.