And now for something completely different!

    Oh no!  Don't look!  You'll just suffer from nightmares, if you try to follow along with the logic of this engineering and the explanation for it's acceptance!   

    But, leave it to the "Promotional Dept". to try and make everyone want one!   

    Yep, you said it: 

  Strange!!

    Scott.

       I always applaud an individuals' efforts to be self sufficient, I think there needs to be a lot more of this in our society today, but, unless you already have or this is just a first purchase in the direction of accumulating a "Machine Shop", just contract a competent one to do the work.   

       Now, if you don't already have a machine shop for which this purchase would only prove an accessory implement for, if your just determined, and particularly if this is just for seat "touch-up" work then I'd suggest considering "stones"!  Their not popular any more, as they take an exorbitant amount of time, greater effort and knowhow with technique to achieve a proper result, that as compared to more modern equipment available; but "kits" also can be purchased used at auctions for a pittance. And with some familiarity and effort a fine result 'can' be had.   

       We still sometimes utilize stones, that for "touch-up" and "dressing", this on both heads where they really haven't 'used-up' the previously done seat work and even sometimes on new machine cut surfaces to lay down the surface.  And then periodically an oddity comes in the shop that we don't have a applicable cutter for, so often for this out comes the stones. 

       They ain't all new fangled like some of the newer (more expensive) stuff, but you know, for quite a number of decades they were/have been what has cut probably more seats than anything else.   

       Scott.

       P.S.  Oh yeah, the guides need to be "good" first!   

     The "ultimate Flow" capacity, yes; power, driveability as a whole, maybe maybe not.  And the ideal execution, resulting in the best effect of that which one intends to address is going to differ, this due to the surrounding componentry and environmental conditions.   

     For example, I wouldn't say that the use of  "a 1 inch 4 hole merge type spacer" is always going to be "better" either!   

     Nope! Not the answer you were looking for, but the honest one.   

     Scott.

    +1   

     That reminds me:  Back several decades ago Jim Dove was heavily into "roundy-round" racing with the FE; and he had been utilizing those 4.05" bore cross-bolt bossed blocks for cap conversions, but then was having to sleeve them down to 4". He had heard that we had some 352 blocks with the bosses but he had never seen such, so he came down to our shop just to see if this was true.  In our discussions, where we had drawn the same conclusions, he explained that it had proven that trying to utilize the non bossed blocks "didn't work" (perhaps "as well" ) and therefor was searching high and low for these 352's with the cross-bolt bosses and would pay a premium price (which he did! ) for them.   

     Scott.

That example is a test of a vector that doesn’t happen unless the machining was bad.

     The idea wasn't an effort to demonstrate that the skirts move excessively during bolt-up (particularly with poor workmanship), rather a simple effort to display the functional rigidity of that which is being anchored to. And the plane of motion is absolutely relevant in the attempt to hold the main cap squarely as the thrust forces and resultant movement attempted to being dampened are left to right, this attempting to spread this pan rail distance and resulting in splitting the block through the main saddles.   

     Scott.

     Just realize that it's a "knock-off" aka. "rip-off" product and one shouldn't be promoting this, no matter how "cheap" it might be!   

     Remember: "You only get what you pay for!"   

     Scott.

        If after a thorough degreasing and abrasive/shot blasting, the block is one which just still has lots of rust crap in water-jackets, flakes of rust falling out every time one rolls the block over, then we just surrender to the process of filling the water-jackets up with muriatic/hydrochloric acid and let it fizzle for a while, flush with water and inspect.  Another treatment may be deemed necessary, but if not, or just when you've concluded this endeavor, then treat with some baking soda slurry to neutralize and flush again with lots of water.   

        This of course is when working with a bare block, and disassembly may prove to be necessary if the block has a lot of trash accumulation.   

        Scott.

     

       

       One has to give credit to C.F. in creating an increased interest in clutches; which for the most part previously were just something that someone bought like brake pads, solely because they needed it, and generally made their selection based on simple recommendations by another, . . . .  "cause it was what they were using".   

       Beginning back in the earlier '80's, presumably after the "Non-Compete Clause" lapsed after Hays Clutches had been folded into the Mr. Gasket Group, C.F. popped up with a greater some of effort in promotion, colorful shipping boxes, that 'bright' orange painted P.P. hat, and for goodness sake, don't forget the 'jingly little weights', all of which provided tangible identifiers that this product 'must be better' than the others, at least at first glance!  Never before had the subject of clutches become such a fashionable consideration!   

       Scott.