I want to swap out the poor shifting NP435 for a toploader. Which currently has an Advance Adapters overdrive in front which will retained and require the 1-1/16" input shaft.

 I'm concerned about shifter location, the overdrive sets everything back about 7.5". Not an issue with the np435 but at looking at most toploaders the shifter is way far back and offset to the left. Any advise for something that would put the shifter as far forward as possible?

This is a down the road project, just planning on what will be needed to start collecting parts. While subject to location and condition what should a person expect to pay for a used unit? Also interested in pro shifting 2-3 3-4

While it is FE powered figured this was a better spot for this question.

What is the factory tire height for a 1974 F100. 390,C6 and I believe 3.73 gear. Just picked up a set of old turbine wheels 15x8.5 want to keep factory diameter for the speedometer. Cannot find a reliable source searching the webs, thought maybe someone here might know. 

This is relation to an old engine not a fresh rebuild. I have, be it a waste of time or maybe even the wrong thing to do re-torqued heads on old engines. Method I use, take bolt out clean threads blow out with air and maybe even run a tap down the hole if nasty, light coat of oil on threads and pull to spec in one swing. Do this on each bolt in order. Intake removed.

I had to pull a head bolt for some reason I cant remember and reinstall, when I did I noted the position of the head and it ended up about 15* or so past where it was (tighter). So I did them all, this was on a junkyard 390 that has been nothing but abused since. I also did this recently on a Cleveland  and got maybe 5* this engine had a "recent" rebuild.

Anyone else ever do this? Should I quit doing it? I can't see what it would hurt, obviously the gaskets have relaxed a little over the years and I feel this is bringing the clamp load back where it should be.

Just wondering what peoples thoughts where on the matter.

A buddy has a 63 or 64 (i think) Fairlane Sports Coupe with a 289, factory 4 speed. He has had the car since he was 16 and is a good mechanic. Engine was built decades ago but he cannot remember the details but it runs hard and sounds great. Headers and good exhaust and certainly some bump on the cam, best idle tune only achieves 11" of vacuum.

 New Quick fuel 600 or 650 vac secondary carb (I can't remember), duraspark ignition. Has been sitting quite a bit over last 10 yrs maybe out once a yr for a couple hours, until this summer since my turbo 390 is running we have hit a few car shows together.

The problem is it's breaking up at higher rpm and seems down on power compared to what he remembers with a 600 double pumper from years ago. He has jetted the carb up a few numbers which helped he thinks it needs more, initial timing has been bumped up which also helped unsure of total at this time, vac secondary adjusted to come in sooner also helped. Fuel pressure is good throughout rpm range. Thoughts? still to lean, over advanced, other ignition problem?

I'm looking for more ideas as I about have him talked into letting me pull the distributor to give it a seat of the pants recurve and control the total. Also what would a good total be for  But I don't know if it will solve breaking up at high rpm. My gut tells me it ignition related somehow. We do not suspect any mechanical issue with the engine it has to be in the tune, but we have been wrong before.

In the market for a new timing light. Any recommendations?

About a year ago I borrowed 2 lights from a couple buddies that they considered their best light to compare against my old chrome non dial back light. Both where older dial backs. The issue was that I had a different reading from all 3. Great so which one is correct and which is wrong, who knows... Any easy way to verify accuracy besides comparison testing?

edit.. One that will work with stock and aftermarket ignition boxes i.e. Mallory, MSD, etc. Or best to have a separate light for each?

Thinking about adding an oil cooler, a simple 9x11 plate stacked cooler in front of the radiator.

 I never liked the look of those sandwich adapters although I'm sure they work fine. In my pile of stuff I have a spacer from an FT that would have been used for an air compressor oil supply/return I believe that will work well and look better IMO. Fits between block and factory filter adapter.

Question is am I wasting my time and creating a solution for a problem that doesn't exist? Any experience before and after adding a cooler?

With this twin turbo setup certainly loads of heat is being dumped into the oil although I do not have a gauge to confirm temps. the thought is the addition of a cooler would help curb some of that extra heat. Maybe not enough but these are parts on hand and certainly better than nothing. 

Used pos junkyard engine. Factory non-adjustable rockers in what appears to be decent shape. 0.70 restrictors, used oil pump that I pulled apart and tightened some clearances.

Doing a pre oil big 1/2 arm breaker drill. 10W40 oil 40 psi on the gauge, PLENTY of oil from the rockers/shafts except for a couple #2 exhaust and another on # 3. I rolled the engine over while priming as well thinking maybe it might help. Shafts are in the correct orientation, no galling, holes look open and clear rockers look the same.

Why? Oil is obviously going along the entire shaft holes are open and wet with oil on the shaft but not flowing from the rockers like the others.

I know the answer is pull everything apart or replace with new but there is no reason even worn parts shouldn't be flowing oil. Excessive clearance on the other rockers and oil is taking path of least resistance is only thing I can think of. But I've seen rockers and shafts in much worse shape that worked fine.

Ill probably throw another set on and see what happens.