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The Red LS Mustangwe don't have any emissions testing here, haven't for several years.
Can ya make something like that street legal ??
Or, a 2001 3.8 Mustang with a Coyote swap ??
Ricky.
go back and read what I posted and you just quoted.13 cfm isn't "JMO" or a wild-assed guess, that's what the flow bench test SHOWED when I tested the same head on a .125 larger bore fixture, no other changes. Im posting tested results, not supposition or guesswork. Getting the cylinder wall moved back from the flow cone around the valve probably does MORE than the 10 cid, and THATS the point of the whole exercise. I'm done here.Whats 13 cfm@.500 lift worth? Now, add that to the 12-13 hp from the extra 10 ci, and all of a sudden, its 20-25 hp. Because that's the difference in intake port flow I saw on my bench just by switching from a 4.03 bore fixture to a 4.155 bore fixture on a brand X head.Since you asked. What I'm looking for is free HP and a less expensive build.
4.125 adds 10 cubic inches, over 4.080 and I have a set of 4.125 forged pistons.
Whether or not, in your opinion Ak Miller and others, are wrong, is irrelevant to me, I only know that it was done by many and a usable platform.
The OP was only about when the FE changed to a thin wall casting and at this point, no one seems to know or where to point me, to find out. But, I did ask how much you can bore a late engine and find out that if you bore a later FE to .040, it will not last.
I thought that there might be some technical info from Fords engineering dept available on this forum.
Thank you all, for your input.
10 cubes is only about 12-13 hp. Not really worth the effort.
13 cfm is worth a lot. 10 cid, not so much. Bore size and cfm are not the same as displacement.
JMO,
paulie
You’re getting good info from everyone, I’m sorry it wasn’t what you wanted to hear.And that's the crux of the matter, right there. I was thinking about digging out the original article in Hot Rod magazine in late '57, when they wrote about the introduction of the FE series, and bragged about how it was a new-fangled thin-wall casting, but I didn't think there was any point, as "it wasn’t what he wanted to hear".
Whats 13 cfm@.500 lift worth? Now, add that to the 12-13 hp from the extra 10 ci, and all of a sudden, its 20-25 hp. Because that's the difference in intake port flow I saw on my bench just by switching from a 4.03 bore fixture to a 4.155 bore fixture on a brand X head. That little test happened because several of us noticed that the flow numbers on some of the RHS heads a few years back looked a little "happy", and that the published flow numbers were obtained on a 4.155 bore fixture. Everything affects something else.Since you asked. What I'm looking for is free HP and a less expensive build.
4.125 adds 10 cubic inches, over 4.080 and I have a set of 4.125 forged pistons.
Whether or not, in your opinion Ak Miller and others, are wrong, is irrelevant to me, I only know that it was done by many and a usable platform.
The OP was only about when the FE changed to a thin wall casting and at this point, no one seems to know or where to point me, to find out. But, I did ask how much you can bore a late engine and find out that if you bore a later FE to .040, it will not last.
I thought that there might be some technical info from Fords engineering dept available on this forum.
Thank you all, for your input.
10 cubes is only about 12-13 hp. Not really worth the effort.
heres the thing, Brent and I basically disagree on this, my position is, if you are smart about it, careful and systematic in your approach, and willing to go to a LOT of effort to hunt up the right block and then sonic test it, you can build a good 4.13 bore FE from SOME (very bloody few) 390 blocks. Brents position is, and in his place as a professional engine builder that is going to send this out the door under the arm of a customer who has paid him a substantial sum, I understand his trepidation, that its not worth it.
I hate to sound crass, but I've heard of the name and he is wrong.
Yes, we are beating a dead horse, but I would not reinforce to anyone to waste a good 390 block by trying to take it to a 428 bore. You're much better off with having thick/stable cylinder walls and make up the cubic inches with a different crankshaft, or just flat out make more horsepower with better parts than we had 50 years ago.
Again, what do you expect to gain from going to the large bore? A 2.190/2.200" intake valve will work perfectly well on a 4.080" bore size and make big horsepower to boot.
Do any of you remember Ak Miller?Yes, very well, and more than just an article in Hot Rod. but we are really beating a dead horse here.
I have L2298F-30 in my engine. Bought them in 1980. I first ran Cobra Jet heads so the domes were milled off to clear the chambers. Now with the High Riser heads the compression is lower than ideal but it'll run on 94 octane pump gas.Those pistons are from the race pistons line, different alloy and drilled oil ring lands, so they are supposed to be out around .007-.008, so .010 isn't that bad.
Oh , and 010" clearance too, mostly because of a couple rehonings.
. But with '57 283 blocks being as hard to find as they are, the only other option would be to go out to 1/8 and build a 301, I'd rather not do that, so I will just have to cross my fingers. 283's are REALLY forgiving, and the bottom ends are like anvils, so its probably ok, but its far from ideal, and I do worry about it a little.
I've got a C5 FE block that has been cross bolted but it's already bored +060 and needs a cleanup.#5 is thick on the major thrust side, depending in the state of the water jackets, if that were mine, I would SERIOUSLY consider doing a fill to the bottom of the water pump holes, banging a sleeve in #8 and going to 4.13, but that's just me. That's a good block, almost all cylinders are shifted toward the major thrust side. You would still be well over 1/8 on the major thrust side in every hole except #8, one sleeve and its an excellent candidate.
The attached sonic check shows me that I won't take it to +080 due to #5 and #8.
But I plan on using custom sized pistons from either Brent or Barry to make this a nice street engine with either a 4.25 or 3.98 crank.
I've got a couple of EDC engines that I may have sonic checked to see if they are somewhat thicker and a number of 105 blocks.
Richard >>> FERoadster
Its an issue. Depends somewhat on how thick the sonic test shows, and which way the core is shifted too.….and if they are pitted on the water jacket side....
That's the heavy hitter right there. You can't sonic every single portion of a cylinder.
Ford want-a-bees who are afraid to build a real engine, and don't want to offend their chevy buddies. They think it is OK to cut up a Ford, because it saves a Chevy for someone to restore. Scared to be different enough to actually build a read Ford and make it work. Joe-JDCI think its the Russians! Its that goddam Putin guy, trying to undermine truth, justice and the American way again!!!!
I still have a nice 1979 TRW Engine Parts catalog, I'll get some particulars on that L number tonight when I get time.I was thinking last night about scanning a couple of pages of FE pistons and posting them, kinda help make this the "definitive FE TRW piston post".
Would one of you please post or send me the page showing the L2298 pistons (427 bore, 428 crank)? I believe it should indicate which heads the pistons will work with. I had to modify mine to get them to work with CJ heads....
Ruined I tell you! Maybe it will be for sale cheap less engine though....Just gotta say, its the Camaro hood geegaws that are truly appalling. Cripes, I always thought those were ugly as hell on Camaros, why would you put them on something else?
https://www.lsfest.com/ls-powered-1966-ford-fairlane/
