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Messages - falcongeorge

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1
Member Projects / Re: Carburetor madness by Drew
« on: September 28, 2024, 10:23:49 AM »
Really late to this party.
I'm not the type who needs his carburetors to be purdy, they just need to work properly.
When I got the urge to modify my M/T Power Ram for 4 2 barrel Holleys, I got some pretty grungy ones that were cheap. I did that because I was really uncertain that set could ever be able to work at all.
One day after reading one of Drew's replies on this forum I sent him a PM and he spelled out a complete list of modifications in his message to make my set up of all 4 carbs working at the same time work well on a street driven vehicle. It was intimidating drilling and tapping metering plates, drilling brass set screws, replacing throttle blades, and so on, but I now have at least a better sense of what the effect of all the circuits are.
Thanks to Drew and his willingness to share information.
I put about 500 miles on my Comet this summer and plan to keep driving it until it gets too cold to go outside (70*F or so).
The looks at car meets are priceless. Most think I'm a masochist/genius. More impressive is the car starts right up, no blubbering or black smoke, and drives normal in traffic. Plugs stay a nice straw color.
Fun! I really can't thank Drew enough!
I have an XF-8 in my stash, planning to use it on one of my falcons

2
Member Projects / Re: Carburetor madness by Drew
« on: September 23, 2024, 06:17:27 PM »
Due to the request made in another thread I'll be detailing some plating and other fun here.

This time I've been seriously busy..... work has been recalling me a lot, so I haven't had more than a few days at home.  Worse yet, when I did get home I'd immediately get a call that I am "on notice to ship out with 12 hours notice" so it's been hard to prioritize my projects.

That said, I'll repost a carburetor I did awhile ago.
Just an 1850, was gross.   I cleaned to perfection, drilled and tapped all bleeds as follows:
-2 Primary idle air bleeds
-2 high speed air bleeds
-4 emulsion bleeds
-2 power valve channel restriction bleeds
-2 secondary idle air bleeds
-2 secondary high speed air bleeds
-2 idle feed restrictions
-2 metering plate restriction
-2 idle feed restrictions for the secondary

I also added .140 downleg boosters
Everything got beadblasted than back to the ultrasonic cleaner, than hand cleaned, dipped in a pickle, water washed and than dipped in a dichromate to seal the metal.  Replated linkage and hardware as needed and redid the base plate like I wanted it.  I use SS plates that are a good bit thinner.

I've got 400 miles on this setup and it's probably the best 1850 based carb I've built.  All metal appears to be holding out with no signs of fading.
Like the downlegs in a 600, probably picked up a quick 35-40cfm, and gained some signal to boot. Nice move.

3
Thinking about it more....

If you have the later Cruise-O bell with the high top holes....

I'm gonna go out on a limb and say it "will work" with your FMX.

I could be wrong.....
EXCELLENT! Thank you galaxieX this is the kind of info I am looking for. I am comfortable re-drilling either the case or bell, depending on whats what, so thats ok. I have since found out that the biggest converter that will fit a cruise-o bell is 11". Not necessarily a game changer. I am now thinking about keeping the 3.03 and using a hurst Synchro-loc I have, I don't know I have to think about my options here.

4
So, what you basically need, other than the high/low bolt location, is the distance, from the front of FMX case, to the block face?

I have one on a '71, 351W that I could measure. It still bolted to the engine so, my measurement might not be exact.

well what I really need is that measurement on a cruise-o bell, I have an FMX bell I can measure. I am starting to really think about just keeping the 3.03 in it and teaching my wife to drive a stick. Oh my aching clutch disc!

5
so no-one knows if a cruise-o bell will work with an FMX? main thing I am wondering about is the depth from the mounting flange on the block to the front of the trans case is the same.

7
FE Technical Forum / Re: Paging Rory M. Want to know how Mercury ran in PA
« on: September 18, 2024, 06:34:45 PM »
Thanks for posting a couple of photos, Kevin, I have never been able to figure out how to post photos from my cell phone on this site. Calling my car a "Mercury" is kinda confusing, it is a Canadian model, called a Meteor  , which anybody familiar with 50s Ford cars, would readily recognize as a 59 Ford, not a Mercury. However, the Meteors, although based on Fords, at least from 1949 thru 1961, were sold at Canadian Mercury dealerships, (along with Mercury trucks, which were essentially Fords, with Mercury badging, and a tail gate with "MERCURY" stamped into it). But realistically, other than a fancier grill, emblems and trim, the Meteors were basically Fords. The Meteors were built at the Oakville Ontario Canada Ford plant, alongside regular Ford models, so both Fords and Meteors were rolling down the same assembly line at the same time, and were both common sights on Canadian roads in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. As for the scales at Beaver Springs, they are located on a raised platform, under a roof, not far from the staging lanes, near the dragstrip surface. If anybody that was there this year, it was near where Faron was pitted with his supercharged red 68 Mustang. Faron helped me weigh the car, those scales are the old style balance beam with sliding weights style, but seemed pretty accurate, based on what Faron said his car weighs, and the difference of my car, with and without me in it.

Thats cool! Pretty sleepy and as Canadian as a Massey Harris combine!! Tom just told me recently that you had moved back east, I didn't know.

8
FE Technical Forum / Re: Paging Rory M. Want to know how Mercury ran in PA
« on: September 18, 2024, 12:16:21 PM »
any pics of Rory's merc?

9
Looking to buy a pre-65, oil fill tube, cast iron 4bbl FE intake in greater Vancouver area or BC Kootenays, Arrow lake area. I am back in the lower mainland mid-October-early April, Arrow Lakes area Mid April-to early October, I could also pick up in Kelowna, Merritt, Kamloops, Falkland, Vernon, Lumby Cherryville, or anywhere enroute on my way up to Kootenays in April. Also looking for a 390 crank/rods, and twin I-beams and spindles for a disc brake f100-250

10
I have a '65 f100 farm truck with a 352 and a three on the tree that needs a trans, I also have a '70 351 Cleveland FMX just laying around, I know there are some FMX/FE bellhousings around, but they are not common, can I use a cruise-o-matic FE bell to mate the FMX to my 352? I know the pilot on the cleveland converter is smaller, can you still get those little slip on rings that enable using the small pilot converter with an FE? What flexplate do I need? I know I will have to shorten the driveshaft, i can handle that. FE C-6s are getting pretty rare up here, and this thing is a budget farm truck.

EDIT: looked up the pilot rings, still available. Considering that its 70 miles through the mountains to a parts store and my neighbor has a lathe, I will probably just make the ring myself. I'm thinking 153 tooth flexplate is right for '65 F100 352? Could just get off my lazy @ss and count the flywheel teeth I guess...

11
Good Deals! / Good Vibrations
« on: October 31, 2019, 08:27:52 PM »
I got an excellent deal from Good Vibrations Motorsports on some Enderle X nozzles and some other parts, he was $12 cheaper per nozzle than Alkydigger, that's $100 savings over 8 nozzles. And he is very courteous to deal with and shipped promptly too. He will get more business from me.

12
FE Technical Forum / Re: Boring 390's
« on: September 22, 2019, 02:22:56 PM »
I remember what our local, quite sharp dealership parts guy told us in the mid-70's, that if you bought a 428 service block then, you would get a bored out 391 block, as they were using one service casting based on the 428, but only (normally) bored to 4.05- which would of course be a cost savings over casting different blocks for service use when not necessary. Actually makes perfect fiscal sense, and would explain some 360s and 390s with "thick" walls
bingo, dead on the money. Every single one I have seen so far is a mid seventies block. My guess is, theres a lot more out there to be found, I would be willing to bet there were probably at least 500 or so cast its a simple question of economy of scale. Ford didn't do 5 or 6 blocks at a time for bread and butter stuff, they did hundreds at a time. By casting them all on 428 cores, they didn't need to cast, and warehouse two runs of blocks, one for 360/390s, and one for 428s, they could cover both replacements with the same block, and machine them to the bore size they needed.
Of course, when you think about how many MILLIONS of 390 blocks were cast over the years, they are going to constitute probably less than 1% of the total number of 390s out there, (which is right in line with Barrys quoted numbers) and probably quite a few thick (and thin) blocks are Toyota corollas by now, so you are going to have to look at a HELL of a lot of 390s to find one. If you are looking for one, once you realize they are all late blocks with the vertical ribs, you can eliminate a lot of them without even popping a freeze plug. Theres still a damn site more thick 390 service blocks out there than there are OEM 427 cammers, and if I went on an internet forum and said those "didn't exist" the same guys that are saying "all 390s are thinwall" would go spastic. ::) But blabbing about cammers is "cool", talking about thickwall 390s clearly is not.
FWIW, my block came to me indirectly via another one of those "old-school" Ford guys like Gene is talking about, he was pretty well known locally, there is  at least one member silently lurking this thread who knows exactly who I'm talking about, he also had two shotgun mustangs, one pretty much stock, the other with a raised port, dual dominator Pro-Stock motor in it, the second one was pretty notorious among local street racers in the early seventies. Lots of those guys knew about these blocks back in the seventies when they were new, hell I knew about them, and I didn't have any kind of inside track, I was a punk kid at that time.
Its a fair bet that a fair percentage of that 500 or so have been hoarded by the few guys that knew what they were, and there are probably a few out there like mine, that have been sitting in a dry basement for 20-30 years. A lot of those guys are older than me, (and I aint exactly young) and are probably closing in on the time when they are going to stop hoarding this stuff. But hell, they "don't exist" so you guys here don't need to worry about that. ;D

13
FE Technical Forum / Re: Boring 390's
« on: September 22, 2019, 12:22:08 PM »
there are a few 390 blocks around that will go +.080 and still be thick enough, but they are not common, and to go out and hunt one down is probably an exercise in masochism, if not futility.you will need to sonic test any potential candidates, and if they are pitted on the water jacket side, you can still be in trouble. Brent alluded to the primary reason to do this, unshrouding a 2.19 intake valve. Its always about the cylinder heads.
 I wouldn't even consider trying to take any OEM FE block to +.125.

My very first post. Looks like Barry, Brent and I are all saying pretty much the same thing. ::) As to the "All 390s are thinwall" keyboard commandos, well....

14
FE Technical Forum / Re: Boring 390's
« on: September 22, 2019, 12:08:39 PM »
I guess its not surprising a bunch of guys that have no idea how to find these blocks think that they don't exist.

No one is saying they don’t exist.

We are all saying it’s not prudent to bore the snot out of them.  Maybe jay will step back and put this thread out of its misery.
[/quote]
Brent, that's what YOU are saying, and I haven't said you are wrong, maybe that I don't 100% agree, but I understand and respect your position. Plovett and MANY others have said "All 390's are thinwall". Do I need to post the definition of "all"?

15
FE Technical Forum / Re: Boring 390's
« on: September 22, 2019, 12:04:05 PM »
I guess its not surprising a bunch of guys that have no idea how to find these blocks think that they don't exist.

I have only checked about 100 per year for the last decade or so.

I have found definitely under ten - maybe under five - that I considered truly safe as 4.130 candidates.
One of them had the "C" scratch in the bell and a distributor bushing.

I guess I am not looking hard enough...
Barry, the fact that you have found ANY, even if it were one, proves my point. They do exist, and those that are saying they don't are full of $#*^. And as I said in the other thread, mine does not have a distributor bushing.

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