No hurry on that, because I won't be able to do much with them until I get some of the basic machining operations programmed.  But at some point down the road it would be good to them, to see how they match up with a raised medium riser port.

They might match up pretty good, as these Dove HR's have been cut for race T&D's, which didn't leave much of the roof, and then the roof was filled slightly with Devcon

The new owners may have bitten off more than they can chew.
They have a rep for buying and wrecking automotive forums with embedded ads and popups.
The "bullet" is perhaps the most vitriolic, wild, contentious, and entertaining forum in the automotive world.
The membership there is known for taking down those that deserve taking down - could be interesting to watch this one play out.

Would that be the owners of the FTE site? That place is ALL about how much ad space they can sell- really gives my Ad-Block a workout LOL

Location is important- many of us have these parts, local pickup is usually better than shipping

Better a little loose than a little tight, but make sure you actually only have .010- more than that and I would work on tightening it up

I don't focus on rod length more than, as Joe put it, the longest (readily available, reasonably priced, and strong enough) possible, without making a crusade out of it. To put it very simply, a longer rod (which is closer to parallel to the cylinder all through the cycle) transfers energy to the crank, with a little energy pushing out against the cylinder walls due to the leverage. A shorter rod, with greater angularity, pushes against the walls just a bit more- very little, but a bit- so a (very) miniscule amount of power loss and additional wear and tear is just logical- but it would have to get to a pretty severe angle to be worth worrying about, and in the average range of rod ratios, probably not enough to notice or measure. So I go with the longest readily available and proper strength part that will fit, and don't spin about it any more. The 4.25/ 6.7 is a well proven combo that works pretty well (as is the 3.78 or 3.98/ 6.49), and the price is right- move on to @.050's and LSA's where you can REALLY fuss and spin LOL
I see examples of this every day at work, where we use large excavators, CAT 345's and 330's, and most everyone prefers a "long stick"- no pun intended- which is the vertical part that hangs from the boom- the connecting rod between the boom and bucket, as you can just reach farther and do more work with it. A "short stick" will "crowd" stronger horizontally, as in digging and loading the bucket, with more severe angularity (leverage)- like pushing against a cylinder wall. A long stick loses a small amount of horizontal strength, or crowd- which is good in an excavator, but wasted energy in an engine- as in pushing against the cylinder walls. Funny thing, the long stick and short stick lift the same amount of weight vertically- one can nit pick the slight difference in weight of the long stick (or connecting rod) but the total lifting work produced is still the same