I know that is a generalized drawing there Jay, but in the case of the Trick Flow, the tip is actually pitched too far towards the exhaust side.  Depending on the arch of the rocker arm (if any), a longer valve will not necessarily do the same thing as a change in shaft placement.  If it was a "box" geometry that started with all 90° angles, up with one, or down with the other would accomplish the same things.  If the set-up exists with "other than" 90° angles to start with the remedies get kinda blurry.  Just for the sake of example....sometimes dropping the stand .200 might affect it more or less than a .200 longer valve, or vice versa.  They do have a longer valve, but it isn't "longer enough", and it would create other issues like installed height problems to keep making the valve longer.  The best fix for their deal is to lower the shaft, by whatever method suits a person's fancy.  I agree that it will work, it has minimal effect on power, and yes, it will wear the guides out quicker over time than proper placement. It also can be hell on a valve tip and rocker if not a roller, as Jay suggested.

Seemed to me that milling the rocker stands and changing the studs is the best answer.  The stands can be easily clamped in a Kurt vise and trimmed, and the studs can be bought with longer base thread.  After the fix, the deeper root is actually better........it just needs to be done.

One of the problems when raising the port roof when using OE style mounting is than we start to run out of threads above the port.  This doesn't happen quite as soon if the pad is taller and there are more threads left......just food for thought.

I think we shouldn't be too greedy about wanting an absolute bolt-on-no hassle situation when working with aftermarket heads.  A bolt-on OE garden variety FE head will flow about 230 on my bench on a good day.  That TFS that needs the stands milled will flow 308 here.  If all it takes is milling the darn stands a little, big deal.....just my opinion.....for 80 cfm, seems like a pretty good deal.

Valvetrain geometry can get to be an infinite discussion, because there are so many conditions that can require so many different remedies.  Sometimes, with really big camshafts with super high spring pressure, it is good to screw it up intentionally, in terms of the normal theory, to ease the burden past half lift, when ramps are stout, and spring pressure is high.  Other times, with less than .500 lift, the tip will barely change position through the whole range.  THAT is obviously what most of the street folks are looking for. 

Maybe Trick Flow should just put a note in the box that when building a high performance engine, one should verify proper valvetrain geometry.  I'm going to check it on all heads and all valvetrains.  Over time, I see some things over and over with certain combos of parts.  If you don't do it every day, you should check your individual situation out for yourself, or  work with someone who can check it for you.

Thank you- I was thinking with my Bridgeport mind, and had the same idea about putting the stands in an accurate mill vice, and keep the same setup for the next batch. The average wrap-around end stand thickness thing, a valid point, could be overcome with a little country thinking. In my mind, the extra beef and thread engagement is worth coming at it from a different direction

Are the threads deeper in head for rocker shaft stand bolts ?
Increased clamping force without pulling threads ?
If not and ports not raised , makes no sense .

Beat me to it lol... Maybe that was their thought, but poor execution? Is there more thread engagement the way they come? Still has to fit right, one could (if there is room) go deeper into the head to get more engagement, but if it was that easy (that room thing) someone would have done it a long time ago

I have a 20' Wells Cargo, would rather have a 24', but it came up on cl for 3K while I was on lunch, and I took time off and went for it- mainly because it has the left side barn door. When the drivers door is 1" past the jamb of the barn door, the tail of my 62 is 1" inside the back door, so I can load it myself. Kinda tight in the front but almost 3', room for jack etc and tying down. Had a couple bonuses, it belonged to an electrical contractor, and he had installed flourescent lighting on the ceiling across the front and down the right side, it had e-track on front and both sides with rigging, and had 3 Pingel motorcycle chocks. The guy got 20 calls after I told him I was headed for the bank, included a pushy gal with a Corvette who was incensed after she offered him more money to cut me out and he said no lol

OK, decided to pass this one on, just have too many. Great starter kit for a 427 Fairlane wagon, pretty solid body, manual trans so it has a clutch pedal. seat upholstery and headliner have been replaced. Runs and currently registered, clean title in my name, original CA black plates. Centerlines go with it for this price. Has original 200-6 and treeonnatree. $5500

Should I keep it? Just getting too many...

The good thing is, those flares are just stuck on the outside, the original lip is underneath. The 57 they had had the wheelwells cut. And it IS right out of the 60's-70's lol

Just followed me home- my old Cobra buddies from the 70's bought it for the correct for a gennie Cobra 427 that was in it, and I got the rest. Too easy, I even have the same type toploader that was in it. Straight axle, fenderwell headers and a 9"- and the left the 8K Dixco tach and 66 Corvette steering wheel in it- serious Cobra boys lol. Possibilities...

I have some, but have no idea what they're worth today