Makes me remember how well the big Luberfiner filters worked. In that case, are they not taking samples and getting them tested? It's a large cost to change that much oil at closer intervals, but how many more expensive failures does it take for them to change their policy?

Quote from: dozz302 on March 29, 2025, 07:56:28 PM

I wanted to see how much cam. Too much can't be used on the street.

There are very, very few cam profiles that can't be used on the street.  300+ duration and .700+ lift is easily streetable if the combination is right.

There used to be a guy down around Hayward in the late 70's that had a 69 Mach1 with a 427/454 that had a 330/600 cam in it, and 4.86 gears with a Locker. Commuted to work with it, as it was his only car. That cam is the absolute King of the shagnasty sounding beyotches. I have a NOS one still in the Ford tube- one of these days...

If you put a heater on the oil pan and let it warm up, you will get a more realistic picture of flow, and will be able to pump it longer as the warm oil will drain back faster

Not easy to find these days, but the rearend from a 66 TBird with a 428 fits right under that Galaxie, and has 31 spline axles. I have had one in my 406 car since 1977- cost me $60. The big brakes fit right on the Bird housing, but if you car has the standard size brakes, you'd want to get the Bird brakes with the housing

Unported, been surfaced but lots of thumbprint left. They have been sitting a long time, were on a 406 in a 56 drag car in the 70's. Too bad the other one got abused by a piston

On my break in stand I just use a magnetic heater on the oil pan, thins the oil out to the way it is when the engine is warm. Leave it on until the pan is warm, and when you light it off, you have normal flow instead of syrup. I also have a coolant heater that I am going to install in the lower radiator hose

Would you believe- I just happen to have a single- it's mate got whacked thanks to a spun bearing, caved in a chamber. Pretty sure it's unmolested, will check later. Just knew someone would need a single lol

Every time I see one of these threads. I come away more confused lol. Some say full 12V to coil, some say resisted, around and around. I am trying to restore my 65 F100, which is on a 79 F150 chassis with a 400. When I got it, the PO had installed one of those POS and ugly-assed aftermarket HEI conversion dizzys. Started really well, stumbled off idle, ran OK once it got rolling, got me home, about a half hour. To further complicate it, it has one of those Chinese replica Holleys on it, which seems to be functioning OK. The HEI started running on about half the cylinders, and has quit completely. It came with a box full of Duraspark parts, a fresh aftermarket dizzy that had been in the 400, a blue module and an aftermarket module, original coil with the horseshoe and bracket. He said it had run OK but had a problem and he had swapped the dizzy and it turned out to be something else. I have several MSD boxes and my intention was to go that way with the MSD conversion harness, but could also go with the blue Duraspark module. So- will the original 65 resistor ignition wire work, or not? 12 volts to either box, but resisted to the coil, or? To make thing worse, it has fresh alternator (Delco) and regulator, and was delivering 16V instead of 13-14V, didn't keep running long enough to check that out, but thinking I need to change the regulator. BTW, I also have two original Durasparks from 460s, one from a Colony Park wagon for sure, the other from a friend, might go with one of those instead of the aftermarket unit, after a recurve