I'll look, thanks!

On my 57 Cusom 300 I had the same problem. Look at the back of the speedometer head where the cable attaches. That threaded nipple has a bronze bushing that the cable slides into and a piece fo felt that needs oil. On top of that nipple there should be a small hole to oil that felt. One or two drops of a light oil like 3 in 1 is all it needs. Do not over oil it. It's a bear to do if the speedometer is in the car. Hope this helps.

This has been bugging me forever. My speedometer needle in my 66 Fairlane bounces as much as 10 mph when I'm doing 50-75 on the freeway. The cable was replaced when I swapped in the TKX so I ASSumed it must be the speedo head itself (it also did it with the C6). I removed the cluster and took it into a speedometer shop today and he hooked it up to a tester he has and it was perfectly steady at speeds up past 100.

But

I noticed as he stood there holding my instrument cluster that if he moved slightly it did exhibit some bounce.

What say you all? Does your classic car have much if any bounce at speed?

Video for reference (with the C6 but it's the same with the TKX)
https://youtu.be/OYk7D6QcchY?si=pkiSKUs6VA26G7yk

Yesterday a Earl Wade built SOHC was listed on Bring a Trailer

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/engine-279/

Earl Wade Racing Engines completed the build of this 427ci SOHC “Cammer” V8 in October 2009, and the seller notes that it was installed in a car that was used for local car shows and parades for around 1,000 miles before it was removed in February 2026 and placed on a test stand built by the seller. It was conveyed to the seller that the block, crankshaft, pistons, and rings were unused period parts, and the cylinder heads and camshafts were removed from crate engines. Dual carburetors, Eagle H-beam connecting rods, ARP 2000 rod bolts, stainless-steel valves, timing gears, a stub shaft, an upgraded timing chain, and reproduction valve covers were also added during the build. The seller acquired the engine in February 2026 and replaced the alternator and starter. This SOHC V8 is offered in Hamshire, Texas.

Ok what I ended up doing is I cut a new hose and ran from the bottom of the reservoir to the radiator filler neck. Then I was thinking I'd get another can for the overflow. But then I had an idea. I have a couple of the reservoir caps, maybe if I just drilled a tiny hole in the cap for venting?

So I tried it and drove yesterday to the Long Beach hot rod swapmeet and car show.  About 30 min in each direction. Warm day. Mix of stop and go and freeway driving. Performed perfectly. I think my problem is solved.

The catch can hose also has to draw from the bottom of the can back to the rad.    Not just catch the overflow

Interesting, so I should reroute the hose to the radiator so it's coming off the bottom of the can AND keep a vent hose on it as well? I only plugged it as it was leaking a couple oz's of fluid after a drive.

Hmmmm haven't see this one before. I recently changed over my radiator reservoir to a new one on my 66 Fairlane (see photo)....I had a vent hose on it but it was expelling a little fluid after a drive so I plugged it up making it a closed system. I popped the hood open the other day....3 days after driving it and this is what greeted me. (see photo)

No cooling issues when driving what so ever. And of course, as expected when I crack the reservoir cap it regains its shape.

What do you guys think?

Something is creating a vacuum but dammed if I can't figure out the solution.

On my 66 Fairlane, I'm seriously considering upgrading the Edlebrock heads and cam to TFS and a custom grind. The thought of going from 500 hp to 600+ is VERY appealing. I would consider doing it myself but I already work 10 hour days and my list is way too long. It'd end up taking forever. Gonna hit up my local classic Ford performance shop

My question is for those who know, how many billable hours should I be expecting to be quoted?

My shock towers have been shaved about an inch so that's helpful.