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Messages - cleandan

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1
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Sound deadening recommendations wanted
« on: April 11, 2026, 07:39:15 PM »
Alan, I had a 1977 F250 Super Cab (Ranger, XLT, Camper Special, if you want the full title)
I did some dB meter testing inside the cab to get a baseline and with the windows up, going down the highway at 60-65 mph, it was in the 98dB-100dB range.
This was a solid truck, in good condition, with good door seals and such.

Then I started messing around with things to get it quieted down. I started with Dynamat Xtreme.
I covered the entire roof where the interior trim and roof panel was located.
I covered the entire floor, including the extended cab area.
I covered the insides of the doors... Lots of Dynamat used in many areas.

This did produce some sound deadening, but the measurements were still in the 92dB range... meaning still loud while going down the highway.

I had highway rib tires by General (10 ply 265/75-16), and they were not loud in the least.
I did have a performance exhaust, but I built that to be quiet, so it was not too loud. Hooker Super Comp long tube headers, dual 3" pipes going into a single 5" mixing chamber, then into dual 3" pipes again, into dual GIANT Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers (3"in, 3" out) and then into dual 3" tailpipes exiting at the passenger rear quarter between the rear tire and the bumper. It flowed great but was very quiet too.

Still, the truck was loud, so I began trying to figure out why.

Through many iterations of covering, removing, and testing I found the major noise was plain old wind noise across all the various high spots of the trucks design.
Rain gutter noise, windshield trim noise, cowl vent noise... just pick a spot because these trucks are like a porcupine with all the things sticking into the air just enough to make wind noise.

But the worst, by far, were the extendable towing mirrors mounted on the doors with the factory bridge girder system... You know the style with the four mounts on the doors using stainless steel tubing.

I removed those as a test one day and BAM! Holy shit! The truck was suddenly quiet. It was not sedan quiet, but it was no longer so loud you needed to speak way up to talk with passengers.
I never would have guessed the mirror mounting system alone was making THAT much noise.

My advice, install the sound deadening materials because they do remove a good amount of general noise in these old trucks.
If you can, install a transmission/rear gears/tires that allow you to run down the highway around 2100-2300 rpm at speeds you will cruise most of the time (around here that is 65 mph)
This lowers the clatter and general noise of the truck too.

But, if your truck has the big eared towing mirrors, and you are looking to quiet things down, get those off the truck to decrease the interior noise immediately.

My problem, at least on an F250, is I like the look of the towing mirrors, especially the tall thin "California" style towing mirrors that would have been on the 1967.


2
Private Classifieds / Re: Wanted: Fomoco oil filler cap
« on: March 20, 2026, 09:02:30 AM »
I've got one that was painted black at the factory and is now mostly surface rust and some old paint left.
I believe it was from a 1966 289 engine in a Galaxie 500.

You could get that chrome plated if you want to go that far.

3
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Starliner windshield
« on: March 18, 2026, 07:54:01 AM »
Royce, you might try figuring out how the shaded area is applied to the new windshield.
If it is cast into the laminate you are stuck with it, but if the shading is layered on the glass, either inside or outside, you may be able to buff the color off before installing the glass.

4
Good thing you arrived where you want to be.
I have some machine tools in my shop, including lathes and a small mill, but taking those out of the mix I would have likely cut them down carefully with a hack saw and then finished them with a wide file to arrive where you are now.

Or I would have used a fiber cut off wheel on a Dremel to remove the bulk, then a file to finish the part.

Your new freeze plugs will look perfect once installed.

5
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rotating assembly question
« on: March 18, 2026, 07:27:38 AM »
What I get from this is buy your engine parts and pay your engine building machinist to balance those parts during the build.

6
Sometimes the inverse of the question helps to clear things up a bit.
The current question, "Is the secondary diaphragm balance tube needed when running dual quad carbs"?

The inverse question, why should I remove the diaphragm balance tube? followed by the question, what will I gain by removing the balance tube?

7
FE Technical Forum / Re: 1974 Ford 427ci Pre-Chamber Experimental V8
« on: March 13, 2026, 09:51:19 AM »
Can you imagen changing the plugs on that thing when it's in a car   :)
With the plugs being like they are I would imagine changing them from below would be relatively easy... from on top, not so much.

8
FE Technical Forum / Re: Electric water pump
« on: March 13, 2026, 09:37:24 AM »
A quality electric water pump will work great for slow engine speeds and city driving conditions because the electric pump pumps at full capacity if it is on.
Many electric water pumps do not have sufficient flow capacity to keep up with an engine when driving at higher engine rpms for extended periods of time, like going down the highway.

But if you are having cooling issues at idle speeds, or slow driving speeds, I would look at airflow through the radiator (heat transfer and dissipation) before I would go after the water pumps pumping capacity.

Concerning plumbing a heater hose into the thermostat housing, that sounds like a problematic situation because the heater hose water flow directly in the thermostat area would likely give false engine coolant temps to the thermostat, likely making the thermostat react as if the engine is cooler than it actually is.

9
FE Technical Forum / Re: Unknown Heads
« on: March 13, 2026, 09:17:16 AM »
I'm not certain, but didn't someone in Canada make some aluminum FE heads in the mid to late 1990's?

10
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Autolite 4100
« on: January 19, 2026, 09:23:55 PM »
Patience will be your friend here.
Kroil is good penetrating oil, maybe the best, so you are already on your way with that.
Use some heat to help soften old goo (gas, oil, other) but don't get too greedy with the heat. Use a heat gun (not a hair dryer) to heat soak the entire area around the shaft in the carb body.

If you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner, you can try that with some safe solvents.
Heat the carb up, then toss it in the cleaner and let it sonic soak for about an hour.

Disconnect all linkages to the shaft being worked on to ensure you are only fighting the stuck shaft and nothing else.

One you have things heated up and soaked plenty then try moving the shaft forth and back.
Remove the nuts on the outer shaft and use a tool directly on the milled end of the shaft (be careful though).

With the shaft free from other parts of the carb linkage and plenty soaked and heated, if you are not able to s  l  o  w  l  y get things to move open and closed, even just a little bit.
If this does not work then you can try coaxing the butterfly open with a wood dowl and a hammer... use gentle taps because it is easy to bend things and ruin them. But with careful force applied you can usually work even very corroded butterflies open eventually.

Again, be patient, let thing heat and soak, heat and soak, heat and soak, moving them from time to time to see if any further movement has been attained.
Eventually you will get things moving enough to fully open the butterflies, but this does not mean you have solved the problem just yet.

There can be a corroded/rusty/rough shaft inside the carb body and that stuff will wear the shaft hole pretty quickly if you try using the carb.
The shaft may be bent, or twisted, causing the binding.
The butterflies can be rusted, bent, misaligned too.

Keep at it, be persistent and patient and methodical and it will come loose..... eventually.

11
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: 97 Mile 1979 Lincoln MK V on BAT
« on: November 18, 2025, 09:05:20 AM »
$140,000 is a LOT of money for a 1979 Lincoln...even a collector series version.
I have been participating with BaT basically since its inception and there are a few things I keep in mind to help me unravel some of the mysteries.

1) Any agreed upon deal between a buyer and seller is a good deal... to them. Nothing else really matters because they made the deal and they figured things out for themselves.
2) Any time I get to thinking I understand the value and market for vehicles something happens to blow a big hole in that theory.
3) Sometimes the "reserve not met" auction ending, of a very high price offered, is just as astonishing as a very high selling price. It also makes me wonder what the reserve was and why BaT authorized the auction in the first place. I have been involved with the potential sale of a few vehicles that were refused because the reserve was too high and BaT said no because of that... Even though the reserve was not even close to the high prices paid for similar vehicles in similar condition. It makes me wonder.
4) When I see a very high price paid for a vehicle like the 1979 Lincoln (I really like that era Continental by the way so no hate here) it also makes me wonder if a percentage of the high vehicle sales is really money laundering... When I see modified early Broncos selling for $300,000 - $500,000 I just have to wonder why... same with seeing a 1979 Lincoln (even if perfect) selling for $140,000.

It IS a very nice car, and you will likely never ever find another in similar condition, but still... $140,000?
Then I revert back to answer #1 and go about my day because the buyer/seller agreed to the $140,000 (plus fees and taxes which will be in the $22,000 range... which is what a really nice 1979 Lincoln usually gets when auctioned as the selling price)

Bring a Trailer is an unusual auction site that offers a lot to take in if you are so inclined.


12
FE Technical Forum / Re: Valve cover alignment
« on: October 18, 2025, 09:44:32 AM »
It looks to be very close right now leaving you a few good options.
Like mentioned above, file, die grind or whatever, the offending hole to custom fit the application and be done.

Enlarge each hole just a tiny bit more to allow for more movement and alignment instead of just jumping up to a 7/16" hole like you mentioned.

You said you are at 3/8" (0.375) right now... Try 25/64 (0.390), and if that does not work then 13/32" (0.406).
Going up in small increments will get you more movement at each hole and thus act like you have opened up the offending hole more on its own without actually making that hole too big.
Creep up on the fit and it will come out nice.

Using a sharp drill bit and a chamfer when finished should give a factory appearance nobody will ever suspect and will not likely make the cover weak or fragile around the holes.

13
The front wheel well openings are very close between the 1965/1966 models, but I'm not sure if they are the same.
The rear wheel well openings are different between the 1965/1966 models. 1965 rears are shorter.
I know the rears won't interchange, but I have never tried the fronts.


14
FE Technical Forum / Re: Valve Adjustment Advice Needed
« on: October 02, 2025, 08:26:20 AM »
Rotate the camshaft so the lifter is on the base circle of the cam lobe for that valve.
I like using the EOIC method (Exhaust Opening, Intake Closing)
Gently wiggle the pushrod up and down as you tighten the adjuster (rotating can produce false results because you can't feel the ever so slight compression of the lifter plunger all the time)
Once you have removed all lash while wiggling the pushrod up and down you now are set at zero lash.
Finish by tightening to your desired preload setting (usually between 1/4 to 3/4 turn)

15
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: dura spark question
« on: September 08, 2025, 07:51:58 PM »
Greg, look into how an MSD box is wired into a Ford Duraspark system. You might find your answers here.
MSD has the schematics for a few different wiring methods.
1) MSD box all on its own, wired outside the factory wiring harness.
2) MSD box all on its own but grafted into the factory wiring harness. (Using the factory Duraspark plugs and wires)
3) MSD box wired in conjunction with the factory Duraspark system, effectively giving the option to run either system should one system fail... like a backup system.

The early MSD box users often ran both systems because they thought having the backup (Duraspark) was a good idea should the MSD box fail.

Does the truck have a factory tach?.. Or did it have an aftermarket Tach?
Sometimes people tried weird things to get the tach to work with the MSD box and ended up with a big problem after butchering the harness attempting different things.

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