Hopefully an easy one for the collective wisdom here, trying to avoid running around town.
As simple as it should be I need some input on an alternator belt choice.
The recommended and belt I purchased years back squeels sometimes.
I am at the end of travel for tensioning and it was that way from the beginningso not super tight.
The belt seems too narrow for the alternator pulley and a bit too long, I think it is the 7420 series at .41" wide.

1965 Thunderbird 390 w/AC, all original bracketry and pulleys.
Does anyone have any recomendations on brand, width, and length?
I'm looking at the .47" wide belts but just not sure.
Thanks.

I am sure this has been discussed before but looking for fresh chat as I have seem some electric fan duscussion recenty.
I have  moderate 445 2x4 in a Thunderbird, probably around 500hp, hole in the hood for a scoop but if it is 95 out and I am stuck in traffic the temp. will climb to 220 pretty quicky, have never boiled it over but it makes me nervous if it is really hot out and cruising is more like crawling.  I have a decent quality flex fan and some fabricated sides acting as a shroud but not a "typcial" tight to the fan shroud.  Aluminum aftermarket radiator.

Now for the question, in general, could one expect a flex fan delete and the addition of a large single or dual electric fans to remedy this siutation?  In other words, just how good or different are electric fans at pulling air through the radiator, it does have an AC condensor and a trans cooler out front adding to the restriction.
Thanks.

I know as long as things are close an engine will fire and one can quickly get timing close to correct for initial warmup.
My question is more of a curiosity with a desire to minimize messing around during tha initial period so I can watch other things.  If a person wants to shoot for say 15 degrees advance at idle how far away from the electrode is the leading edge of the rotor tip?  I assume the spark will jump a fair bit as it gets close (msd ignition) so is 15 degrees advance something like say 1/16" in terms of rotor tip position prior to the cap electrode?

Since I had trash in my oil from my crank thrust bearing wear issue I am wondering if there is a way to flush Morel lifters?
I don't think you can take them apart as the pushrod seat will not clear the rivet.

I can rotate the seat pretty easily but takes a lot of force to compress, do not have a great way to test ease of and free travel so to speak to make sure they are not sticky for some reason.

Thanks.

Hello, have always fought some oil in the pcv/carb on my stroker, had to remove the baffle in the fabricated valve cover due to rocker clearance issues.
Was wondering about using the oval shaped plate access at the back of the Edelbrock 2x4 performer manifold, pro's and cons of this idea, do's and don'ts?
Seems easy enough to pop a whole in the plate and run a pcv straight up into back carb., would I need to baffle the plate on the back side? 
Not sure how much oil is flying around the rear of the galley?

Thanks.   

Just a general question here:

Let's say someone has a $10k budget and picks up a core for cheap, if one were to utilzie that $10k well in terms of maximizing cubes, moderate street cam, intake, aluminum heads, headers, etc., which engine comes out on top torque and HP wise and by how much?

In other words why would you or would you not build a 460 for a non-origianl application where either engine is an easy install?

Thanks.

Game for you all, which winter modification/tweak is likely to provide the most benefit?
This is very subjective I know but what item or two do you think will do the most good and in 3 words or less why?

Replaced Autolite 3923’s with 3924’s, gap reduced from 45 to 40
Power valve restrictor opened up a couple thou to bring A/F from 13 to 12.7 ish (nitrous prep)
Increased lash by ~ .020” across all rockers, looking to quiet at least one slightly noisy roller lifter
Some minor custom carb spacer internal leak sealing to improve dual plane all the way to carbs
Verified/tweaked proper primary and secondary slot exposure/uniformity on all 4 corners x2
Added oil separator for pcv, had previously removed valve cover baffle for rocker clearance
Added 2nd A/F sensor so I can switch between sides for monitoring (both showing equal at idle)
New rear leaf springs with much more rigid isolators
New 1 1/8 diameter sway bar installed up front, stock was maybe 3/4"
Polished and a coat of wax over all
Finished N2O plumbing and wiring

Can already see vacuum is slightly better at idle and idle in gear seems a bit more healthy, no street time yet
Thanks.

Hey all,

Has anyone found a fuel senser that does not drift as it warms up?
I've tried 2 now, autometer and an Amazon special, both drift from 6psi cold to around 4.5 psi warm.
I'm quite certain the pressure is not changing as the analog gauge installed on the rail is fairly steady although it too drifts a little bit.  I can stomp on it and it is rock solid where ever it is at so fairly sure a temp. thing.
0 to 10psi.

Also, fun side note, I preloaded my Morel lifters from ~3/4 turn to ~1-1 1/8 turns on a 7/16-20 adjuster, had some noise in one that bugged me, noise is reduced and picked up around 1 inch of vacuum at idle.  Not loving Morels in general.  Snow and cold now but wondering if I will notice any behavior difference on the road next spring. 

Thanks.