Anybody every use one on purpose? I never have. But I'm thinking it might solve my drivability issue. Engine is generally cold blooded for whatever reason or another and I like to hop in this thing and go, its sluggish almost being held back at low throttle try to give it some more and a backfire through the carb. Only when cold, when warmed up absolutely no issues. Vac advance is bringing in to much timing when cold so thinking adding one of those thermal switches might be the trick?

So I put one of those B&M deep pans on, about the only one that would clear the cross member. Fits good and well made. It came with a filter extension which uses some weird filter held on with machine screws. I don't like the looks of it flow wise. The feed hole is about 5/8" with goes to a 1/2" tube. Looks like it could be a restriction to me. Trans seems to shift fine and maybe i'm imagining things but seems like i can hear a slight squeal when really getting on it, like starving the pump.


Just wondering if anyone has any horror stories with these aftermarket filter setups or if i'm being paranoid. Next time that pans off tho I will replace with a 4x4 filter and custom stand pipe..

Trying to stock pile parts as they are available for an upcoming build, 428 based. 4.25 stroke 6.7 rod BBC journals. A cast crank should be well enough as I'm only shooting for an honest 500hp. But which part number do I need? 9-FE-4250-6700-2200? Seems they have about 15 variations.


 Ill use either Molnar or K1's. I figure I will end up with a custom piston so just trying to collect what I can in the mean time. Once the block and heads are verified then I can adjust the piston as needed to fit the build. If anyone has a part number for the Molnar's that would also be much appreciated.

So facebook market place got me again. Picked up a well used 1985 f250 with a snowplow which I definitely need and it will be nice having a dedicated plow truck for my property.

Question is on the trans, supposedly the trans is rebuilt with under 1000 miles. Well on the trip home (on a trailer as it would barley run) a battery cable which was for a secondary battery contacted one of the trans cooler lines and weld its self to the line melting a hole in it. I was unaware of the cables when I picked it up. Upon discovering the hole I noticed that there was no lost oil or any sign of oil at all, odd since I know the trans is full and I just drove it into the shop so I fired the truck up and confirmed no oil spurting from this broken line. Luckily it ran so poorly that I haven't driven it any farther then on and off the trailer. Seems to go in gear just fine.

 What can cause this? The truck has mostly sat around for many years with very light use and Ive read on the internet that a stuck check ball in the stator is the most likely cause and just to remove it. Is there any other things that can cause this before I have to remove the trans.

Doing a quick mock up yesterday D3 block fresh from machine shop, stock 390 crank turned .010 and .010. Fm125 bearings. The thrust bearings fit very tight in the block and the cap throw everything together for a measurement and I've got about .002 to .0025. Pulled crank and thrust bearings inspected deburred, resembled no change.  Reset top cap few times smacking crank back and forth no change.

Crank spins beautifully but not enough thrust clearance. What is the best way to gain some, remove thrust bearings and sand a little on the front side? Do these FM125 bearings normally fit that tight in blocks?

Anyone make a short shaft water pump? Something to eliminate the couple inches sticking out the past the pulley groove. The idea of modifying the shaft and using a press fit power steering pulley is going through my mind.

A couple inches right at the water pump would really help me in some cooling fan options.

Anyone have any recommendations on a waste oil heater? With winter around the corner I have been considering one.