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Messages - rockhouse66

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1
FE Technical Forum / Re: fuel bowl stripped threads
« on: November 12, 2024, 07:40:10 AM »
Can't go wrong with Drew.  These people did a couple of the needle/seat thread repairs for me prior to Drew being an option:


https://daytonaparts.com/

2
FE Technical Forum / Re: Duraspark Distributor restoration
« on: November 01, 2024, 07:07:51 AM »
Yes the shaft just slides out after removing the gear and collar.  And "gunk" can make this difficult.  You can use a press to get it most of the way out and it helps if you twist and pull at the same time.  There is a clip at the top of the shaft that retains the reluctor.  Fiddly to remove.

3
FE Technical Forum / Re: Blocking Off Exhaust Crossover
« on: September 17, 2024, 07:38:12 AM »
I happen to have .010" stainless shim stock which works well.




4
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil
« on: September 17, 2024, 07:25:59 AM »
I was surprised to also find VR-1 on the shelf at Walmart here in NC.

5
FE Technical Forum / Re: Valve Cover Bolts - AMK
« on: August 11, 2024, 06:56:14 AM »
The bolt you have is correct; 3/4" long bolt, .62" to the split washer.  AMK sells an identical bolt with the same head marking in 5/8" length.  AMK p/n B-12314 for a package of 4 or B-10192 for a package of 17 (because it is also used for the oil pan on FE without the windage tray).

6
FE Technical Forum / Re: No spark
« on: June 29, 2024, 06:16:25 AM »
Since you mentioned replacing the coil, I will note that if it is a Pertonix I and the black wire touches the + side of anything hot it will fail instantly. 

7
FE Technical Forum / Re: Puzzle Time
« on: June 12, 2024, 06:09:58 AM »
I agree with 66FAIRLANE.  Look more closely at the distributor gear and the pin.  I had one shear and then lock in a new position on the shaft.  Same symptoms.

8
FE Technical Forum / Re: Timing Chain and Balancer Advice
« on: June 09, 2024, 06:21:53 AM »
I have always been satisfied with the Ford Performance timing set, M-6268-A390


I know there are higher end parts available but for a street engine I think they are fine.  Our "real" engine builders will no doubt have some recommendations also.

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9
FE Technical Forum / Re: Distributor stuck in block.
« on: October 23, 2023, 05:13:28 PM »
Heat is usually your friend in these situations.  Can you apply some?  I bought some FE distributor cores at Carlisle this year.  One was broken off at the bottom of the "bowl" due no doubt to an extraction effort.  It can happen.

10
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Distributor timing recurves.
« on: October 23, 2023, 07:05:09 AM »
That's a good table of dimensions Heo.  If you have a 10/15 slot you are in business because I just use the 10 for performance stuff.  If it is a 13/18 (most common), I braze the 18 side and grind/file to the .410" dimension.  I find that the Mr. Gasket primary spring is too light but others use them with success.  On the secondary side, it should be "loose" (no tension on the spring) until the very last little bit of advance travel in the slot.  If you use this as a starting point you will at least be in the ball park IMO.
You should be able to bend the spring tangs through the hole in the points plate to fine tune without taking it apart again.

11
No sale at $53K.  Zero option car (except mandatory options) originally.  Too bad it isn't still black jade with nugget gold interior IMO.

13
FE Technical Forum / Re: Horsepower Guesstimate ?
« on: December 29, 2022, 08:58:27 AM »
I don't know what "motor is co" means, but I agree on losing the 270H.  I had this cam in my 428 CJ Torino and it was a dog.

15
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Timing advance weight spring choices.
« on: September 03, 2022, 10:09:59 AM »
I agree with everything Kevin posted - the spring numbers are in the parts books but no specs.  The gadget with the two slots and the points cam is the reluctor.  There should be two slot widths, marked something like 10 and 15 or 13 and 18.  The K code engine should like the narrower slot and a pretty quick advance curve.  Depends though on rear gear, state of tune of the engine, etc.


I have found the Mr. Gasket springs to be too light almost all of the time on the FE distributors that I work on.  The light spring controls the first 2/3 or 3/4 of the curve and the heavy spring is just loose, then comes into play to slow the curve as the engine speed increases.  If you run something like the 10 degree slot in the reluctor you will have 20 degrees of mechanical advance at the crank so will be running about 16 degrees of initial spark advance.  With this much initial, I find the Mr. Gasket spring brings the advance in so fast that the initial plus mechanical advance happens too early (low engine speed).  Very hard to say without a distributor machine or lots of trial and error in the car with a timing light and repeated removal of the distributor points plate to juggle springs.

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