On my break in stand I just use a magnetic heater on the oil pan, thins the oil out to the way it is when the engine is warm. Leave it on until the pan is warm, and when you light it off, you have normal flow instead of syrup. I also have a coolant heater that I am going to install in the lower radiator hose

Would you believe- I just happen to have a single- it's mate got whacked thanks to a spun bearing, caved in a chamber. Pretty sure it's unmolested, will check later. Just knew someone would need a single lol

Every time I see one of these threads. I come away more confused lol. Some say full 12V to coil, some say resisted, around and around. I am trying to restore my 65 F100, which is on a 79 F150 chassis with a 400. When I got it, the PO had installed one of those POS and ugly-assed aftermarket HEI conversion dizzys. Started really well, stumbled off idle, ran OK once it got rolling, got me home, about a half hour. To further complicate it, it has one of those Chinese replica Holleys on it, which seems to be functioning OK. The HEI started running on about half the cylinders, and has quit completely. It came with a box full of Duraspark parts, a fresh aftermarket dizzy that had been in the 400, a blue module and an aftermarket module, original coil with the horseshoe and bracket. He said it had run OK but had a problem and he had swapped the dizzy and it turned out to be something else. I have several MSD boxes and my intention was to go that way with the MSD conversion harness, but could also go with the blue Duraspark module. So- will the original 65 resistor ignition wire work, or not? 12 volts to either box, but resisted to the coil, or? To make thing worse, it has fresh alternator (Delco) and regulator, and was delivering 16V instead of 13-14V, didn't keep running long enough to check that out, but thinking I need to change the regulator. BTW, I also have two original Durasparks from 460s, one from a Colony Park wagon for sure, the other from a friend, might go with one of those instead of the aftermarket unit, after a recurve

Again, works pretty good with smaller cams. trying to keep a wrench on an adjuster with a high lift cam and higher RPM is a little more difficult

Velocity and a well-matched combination is a wonderful thing!

It works pretty well on trucks, tractors and cars with very mild cams. I learned doing old REOs and International sixes where you could idle them down to around 300 RPM and they wouldn't toss oil around

Quote from: MeanGene on January 17, 2025, 10:15:09 AM

Man, now I need to dig out my old HotRod with the inline on the cover lol. IIRC a lot of the fuss was that they were made up from existing Autolite carb parts wrapped up in new castings. I got my paws on a couple, Cross-Boss stuff, back when Cantrell was still around in the 70's (might have been part of the truckload of goodies they got at the Holman Moody sale) but that was a long time ago. Was a cool design, but stillborn without much development time out in the world

Yep, that one. Actually I think I have a couple, the one I've had since I was a kid, and one I found at a swap

Here is a picture of the Holman Moody Boat cover. I have used these many times. Very easy and very strong. Blue thunder makes a copy of this cover and can found

Doug aka pumpbldr
Precision Oil Pumps

Aren't they purty? I have one of those, a couple Nicsons and a Glenwood, and they are all designed to be part of the mount system and solidly built. The Nicson and Glenwood designs have the legs extending down for boat use, and can be trimmed to fit a chassis as needed, or cut completely off- they also have a flange for mounting a boat water pump, driven by and concentric to the cam, which can be adapted to drive a mechanical fuel pump. The HM cover that I have was last used on a 505 ci High Riser with Hilborns on a 58mm Weber intake