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Messages - cleandan

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1
The rear end has been completely taken care of.
I installed an iron N-case, iron daytona carrier, Detroit True Trac, 3.70:1 gears, and a 1350 yolk.
Thanks for all the info.

So far everything is working well.

2
I got in touch with a local auto electrical place A&B Auto Electric in Burnsville.

The "A" for A&B actually scrounged his shelves looking for an older core he thought he had....He found it and is rebuilding it for me.

I'll find out when it is done if it will work because having the "correct" part number does not seem to mean much these days.


3
Thanks for all the information so far.
The reason I am looking into a "crate engine" is the vehicle and the way it will be driven.
This is a 1966 Bronco, in VERY good condition, that is bone stock running the 170ci inline six and a 3spd column shift transmission.

The owner wants a bit more power and an automatic transmission, while also staying within the look of a Bronco of that era....but the Bronco will be a pleasure/fun/cruiser so the power need not be anything special.....and compared to the 170 I think three angry squirrels in a cage make more power....making pretty much anything better.

I suggested a conversion to a small block V8, 302 seems like a good choice here.

I contacted the few engine builders I know and trust and they are all out at least a year for a rebuild.....that is a long wait, but it seems to be the norm in todays market.

I started looking into other options (crate motors) and that prompted my post.
I currently don't know any "good" crate motor builders who will make a non-performance small block 302 (306, 331 are okay too) that will happily take all day parade duty, cruise down the highway without a care, and putt to the ice cream shop while giving stock like usability....so I asked here.

My personal experience with crate engines/rebuilds comes from Jasper Engines....and that was a nightmare to be sure....Because of that I tread very lightly into this area.

Thanks again and have a great day.

4
Things have changed quite a lot over the past five years and I just don't know who is supplying good crate motors these days.

I am in the market for a small block Ford, (302, 306, 331 range) that is built for easy use, general cruising around and good reliability.
Just a good engine.

Who are the good crate motor suppliers in today's market?

6
Boy oh boy have I had one heck of a time trying to source a starter.....Gotta love aftermarket universal parts.
I am working with a 1965, 289 K-code (HIPO), 6 bolt bellhousing, manual transmission, 157 tooth flywheel car.

The starter went bad.
I pulled it and found D3 and D7 casting numbers so I thought it was not critical to this car.....MISTAKE!!!!

I went to O'Reillys and purchased a new starter (They only sell rebuilt starters for this).
It had the word "Ultra" on the box so it has to be good, right?

That starter went right in.....and worked for about six starts....then the bendix failed to engage consistently....back to the store for a warranty replacement.
One day, on a lifetime warranty starter, seems a bit short don't you think.

I get a second starter, same part number, same reman company, same everything....or so it seemed.
This starter will not go into place in the hole of the engine plate.
I fiddle around with it for way too long, thinking I must be doing something wrong....how hard can it be?
Finally I give up and go get yet another starter....one more one day warranty.

The third starter is the same as the second....it will not fit.
This time I get to checking things carefully and I find the nose cone housing (made in Mexico replacement parts) is cast incorrectly.
The alignment ring is about 1/8" out towards the fender side.....and I wonder....Is this for a 164 tooth flywheel?

No way to tell through the auto parts stores because there is NOTHING asking any type of questions regarding flywheels....they did have a designation for K-Code though so I had some hopes.

Well, after three failures I give up on O'Reillys, get my money back, and venture off to NAPA....I called ahead and they had one in stock waiting for me!!! Hey....maybe this is a good sign.

Nope, same Mexican nose cone casting that will not fit....GAWDAMMITALLTOFRIGGEN!!!!!!

I have the NAPA counter guy check a few other starters for similar vehicles and transmissions, using 1964, 1965, 1966 to cover the bases on bellhousing and tooth count variants.

They all list the same part numbers regardless.....GREAT, the computer is lacking in proper info.
The counter guys, who were all over 50, started asking me questions laced with a lot of sassy undertones....Like: Are you sure you know what car and engine you are looking for?
and a few others along those lines.
I answered politely and without adding anything back at them.

Then the other guy asks me from across the counter....."Hey, just exactly what kind of car is this?"
I answer; It's a 1965 Shelby GT350 Mustang....and both of them start in with stuff like.
"No wonder you have the wrong starter, all those Shelby's came with a 427 or something like that."
After a bit more of that style of "help" I thanked those guys and bid them a good day.

Back to O'Reillys to get my core back...and it is gone, or so the guy tells me....crap.

Off to AutoZone, only to find they almost don't know what a 1965 Mustang is according to their computer.
The counter guy literally asked me, "Are you sure its not a Fairlane because we only list a Fairlane for 1965 with a 289?"    whew!
I did ask if they had the Fairlane starter, but of course they did not....no luck there.

Here I am, having screwed myself when I released the core.....I only took it back after the first starter worked, but I did not know it was going to fail so soon otherwise I would have kept it a while.

The search continues, and my knowledge grows concerning how to deal with parts in todays market.

7
Private Classifieds / Re: Steve Magnante's Funny Fairmont for Sale
« on: May 28, 2024, 08:07:27 PM »
What happened to Steve?

8
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Who uses Venmo?
« on: May 19, 2024, 01:06:23 PM »
Doug, you gotta find the payment method that makes you comfortable.
If the buyer will not budge from their prefered payment method it is time to let that deal go.

If the buyer is determined to purchase they will find a way that both parties can agree on.

I have one supplier who insists on using an online only payment I don't have.
We came to an agreement on a different payment method and have been doing business for years now without one single issue.....even if it is a bit slower than the other payment method.

In the end you are in control of how you will take payment, as well as make payments.
If a buyer alerts your gut radar it is time to listen to the gut......The item being sold would be nice to sell, but it is not essential it gets sold to that particular buyer.

9
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: 1999 Ranger clutch bleeding problem
« on: May 19, 2024, 01:00:29 PM »
Bob, it seems likely there is a blockage of some type in the fluid path.

Check a few things first.
1) Bleed screw is actually made correctly....meaning fluid can pass through completely.
2) Bleed screw threaded hole is able to pass fluid.
3) Fluid path in the new throw out bearing is open and properly made.
I say this because these things USED to be one of the normal items that was just made correctly and never gave any issue......Not so much these days.
Aftermarket new parts are riddled with stupid issues like this.

Once those items have been proven good then move on to the rest of the system that was left untouched on the truck.

Start with the fluid line....it may have collapsed internally and only gives trouble when under pressure.
I had a line like this years ago.
It looked perfect on the outside.
It allowed fluid to pass via gravity so it seemed "open".
But when pressure was applied a portion of it (inner liner) would wad up and block the fluid enough to cause issues.....OH, and it was a brand new brake line too.

There could be some junk that moved from the bottom of the master cylinder into the line as well. Thos things get a bit dirty and when we start moving things around stuff "breaks loose" and finds its way in the system somewhere else.

Finally, prove the master is still transfering fluid.

10
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Wifes nephew
« on: May 19, 2024, 12:52:26 PM »
Heo, we all get to make up our own minds about the things we experience as we live our life.

Regardless of ones political, social, or environmental stand, it is very important to offer to others an actual experience, rather than being left hearing an often propaganda directed, agenda mindset telling you what things are.

Based on your description of the kids parents it seems plausible that kid has received the Greta Thunberg agenda riddled version regarding vehicles.

Hopefully the kid will, somehow, look into things on his own and learn a more honest story regarding such things.
He does not need to be converted into a gear head, or convinced old cars are good in some instances.
He just needs to see the reality of how others, who are not eco warriors against such things, are still good people enjoying things they like.

Showing people the enjoyment of your passion is one of lifes better aspects.

At the very least, I think you cemented yourself....likely forever, as the "Cool Uncle" who likes to have some fun and might show you a thing or two......just don't tell mom okay.

11
So much has changed over the last four years....I am wondering who are the current good guys building and selling complete 9" center sections?

I am doing a swap on a 65 Shelby GT350 so I want to keep the original center section intact and original.
It just seems easiest to buy a complete center section for this job...partially due to time constraints too.

I will end up with a 28 spline Detroit Locker (or Eaton Truetrac) 3.25:1 gears and a nice case and pinion carrier.

Who do you know that is providing good customer service, good products, and generally ticking the boxes for a good place to do business with.

I know I can go online and find this stuff, but I'm tired of poop head online businesses, so I'm searching for a good place.

Thanks.


12
I am surprised.
After 582 views there is not one single hint, suggestion, useful comment, or name concerning where to find a Weber tuning specialist in the metro of MN.

Interesting.

13
200*F for oil, or water, temps is just fine...no worries.
220*F for oil, or water temps is just fine....but getting up there.
Many choose temps in the 160-180 range and that is not ideal for many reasons...too cool.
But even 235*F is okay for one of these engines.

As long as those temps are under control things are fine.
"Under control" means the temp has been reached but the temp is sustained....not creeping up, or going up, down, up, down, quickly without a peak or sustained temp the engine reaches.

60 weight oil seems excessively heavy.
This is causing a lot more stress on the oil pump driveshaft, and cam gear driving that oil pump.

If your bearing tolerances are correct (depends on parameters of build) you should be able to run a thinner oil with no issues...a 10W/30 for instance.

Switching to a synthetic oil, after break in, is not a bad idea so long as you run an oil with a useful additive package for your needs.....Most synthetics these days are already set for anti-corrosion as well as coating/sticking to metal surfaces to prevent corrosion when the engine sits. Check into the specific oil you intend to use to learn the parameters of that oil formulation.
By the way, those formulations are subject to change every 6 months so check up on that from time to time to know what is in the oil....this stinks because it is effort we should not have to deal with, but it is the realities of engine oil these days.

Concerning your temps with the oil cooler....They do seem a bit high at 230*F while using an oil cooler....Maybe your oil cooler is too small, or not working efficiently.
But then you say you have the solid block so there is less water in the block taking away heat.
Again, as long as temps are under control it sounds fine.

If you are not running a T-stat with your oil cooler I suggest you install one.
With the T-stat you have better control over the oil temps, which serves the engine better.
Set the oil cooler T-stat around 195*F (meaning it bypasses the cooler until temps reach 195*F)

14
Private Classifieds / Re: Mallory Dist advance springs
« on: April 30, 2024, 08:57:52 AM »
JumpinJim, what specific springs are you looking for?
I have a complete YL I used to run in my 428 and I have some extra springs in my tuning kit.

Let me know what springs you want and I might....might, have them available.

15
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: 600 HP snow gas engine
« on: April 26, 2024, 11:18:35 PM »
Imagine your daily work as the shop oil boy and this engine is providing power to the main shaft for the whole shop.
There must be 50 oil cups on that engine, not to mention all the exposed oiling needs as it is running.

I was surprised how fast they got it turning with that 38 foot stroke....okay, maybe its not really 38 feet, but it is a long, long stroke.

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