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Topics - cleandan

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1
Things have changed quite a lot over the past five years and I just don't know who is supplying good crate motors these days.

I am in the market for a small block Ford, (302, 306, 331 range) that is built for easy use, general cruising around and good reliability.
Just a good engine.

Who are the good crate motor suppliers in today's market?

2
Boy oh boy have I had one heck of a time trying to source a starter.....Gotta love aftermarket universal parts.
I am working with a 1965, 289 K-code (HIPO), 6 bolt bellhousing, manual transmission, 157 tooth flywheel car.

The starter went bad.
I pulled it and found D3 and D7 casting numbers so I thought it was not critical to this car.....MISTAKE!!!!

I went to O'Reillys and purchased a new starter (They only sell rebuilt starters for this).
It had the word "Ultra" on the box so it has to be good, right?

That starter went right in.....and worked for about six starts....then the bendix failed to engage consistently....back to the store for a warranty replacement.
One day, on a lifetime warranty starter, seems a bit short don't you think.

I get a second starter, same part number, same reman company, same everything....or so it seemed.
This starter will not go into place in the hole of the engine plate.
I fiddle around with it for way too long, thinking I must be doing something wrong....how hard can it be?
Finally I give up and go get yet another starter....one more one day warranty.

The third starter is the same as the second....it will not fit.
This time I get to checking things carefully and I find the nose cone housing (made in Mexico replacement parts) is cast incorrectly.
The alignment ring is about 1/8" out towards the fender side.....and I wonder....Is this for a 164 tooth flywheel?

No way to tell through the auto parts stores because there is NOTHING asking any type of questions regarding flywheels....they did have a designation for K-Code though so I had some hopes.

Well, after three failures I give up on O'Reillys, get my money back, and venture off to NAPA....I called ahead and they had one in stock waiting for me!!! Hey....maybe this is a good sign.

Nope, same Mexican nose cone casting that will not fit....GAWDAMMITALLTOFRIGGEN!!!!!!

I have the NAPA counter guy check a few other starters for similar vehicles and transmissions, using 1964, 1965, 1966 to cover the bases on bellhousing and tooth count variants.

They all list the same part numbers regardless.....GREAT, the computer is lacking in proper info.
The counter guys, who were all over 50, started asking me questions laced with a lot of sassy undertones....Like: Are you sure you know what car and engine you are looking for?
and a few others along those lines.
I answered politely and without adding anything back at them.

Then the other guy asks me from across the counter....."Hey, just exactly what kind of car is this?"
I answer; It's a 1965 Shelby GT350 Mustang....and both of them start in with stuff like.
"No wonder you have the wrong starter, all those Shelby's came with a 427 or something like that."
After a bit more of that style of "help" I thanked those guys and bid them a good day.

Back to O'Reillys to get my core back...and it is gone, or so the guy tells me....crap.

Off to AutoZone, only to find they almost don't know what a 1965 Mustang is according to their computer.
The counter guy literally asked me, "Are you sure its not a Fairlane because we only list a Fairlane for 1965 with a 289?"    whew!
I did ask if they had the Fairlane starter, but of course they did not....no luck there.

Here I am, having screwed myself when I released the core.....I only took it back after the first starter worked, but I did not know it was going to fail so soon otherwise I would have kept it a while.

The search continues, and my knowledge grows concerning how to deal with parts in todays market.

3
So much has changed over the last four years....I am wondering who are the current good guys building and selling complete 9" center sections?

I am doing a swap on a 65 Shelby GT350 so I want to keep the original center section intact and original.
It just seems easiest to buy a complete center section for this job...partially due to time constraints too.

I will end up with a 28 spline Detroit Locker (or Eaton Truetrac) 3.25:1 gears and a nice case and pinion carrier.

Who do you know that is providing good customer service, good products, and generally ticking the boxes for a good place to do business with.

I know I can go online and find this stuff, but I'm tired of poop head online businesses, so I'm searching for a good place.

Thanks.


4
Good afternoon all.
I am wondering if there are any Weber tuning specialists in the metro area of Minnesota.

I have someone asking me to tune their engine with 48ida's and while I have done this a few times before, I no longer have the parts, or tuning tools for this task......

By the way, NEVER loan your tuning tools to a friend because they seem to dissappear...##@@$$%%!!

Anyway, if you know of a person well versed in this please let me know.

Thanks and have a great day.

5
I'll jump right in and get to the point.
I have a 428 that was rebuilt nicely and then only received about 1,000 miles of driving before being stagnant for a long.....long time.

Boy time flies when you don't look at the clock.

There was nothing wrong with this engine, as a matter of fact it worked great.

I'm working on getting it running again and I would like your opinions about what prudent steps I should take prior to firing things up.

I have my own ideas, thoughts and methods but I also value other input to be used to help me get there the best I can.

What would you do prior to firing up an otherwise good engine that has been sitting for a long time.
Oh, it has been sitting in a heated garage this whole time....no A/C in the warmer months, but heated and relatively consistent temps.

Thanks and have a great weekend.

7
Non-FE Discussion Forum / A big tip of the hat and thank you to Mark Bliss
« on: February 26, 2024, 03:34:31 PM »
Because of this forum I was able to get into contact with another forum member from across the country to help with an automobile issue.
Mark Bliss, who lives and works nearby where my daughter is now living and working, is that forum member.
Mark and I talked about what needed to be done and he agreed to do that work for a small fee.

The task was the removal of an aftermarket car alarm that began giving troubles.

This whole thing took a few months to finalize, for a number of valid reasons, but today Mark
and my daughter scheduled the repair and Mark was successful in removing the troubled alarm.
Mark stuck to his original amount and would not accept more.....What can I say other than,

Thank you Mark Bliss.

Your mechanical efforts and experience helped solve a long distance repair issue I would not likely get to for a long while (I'm 1600 miles away)

But this seemingly small gesture goes beyond the simple mechanical repair.

Mark, you helped a dad get his daughter in a better spot from a long distance while providing a trustworthy, honest person to deal with.....That trustworthy and honest part is worth far more than the mechanical work.

Thank you Mark, you fixed the car, and you put a dad at ease in the process.
I am grateful for your generosity.

8
Hey all, my daughter is searching for a Shoei Z4 helmet (a Z3 will work)
This is the helmet used by Uma Thruman in the 2003 movie Kill Bill Vol.1.

I figured we all have at least one, if not many, old helmets that are still good, but have aged out and found the shelf.

If anyone has a Shoei Z4, or Z3, helmet they would part with please let me know.


9
My kid lives in the Arlington, VA area.
She is driving a 1999 Toyota Camry LE. (45,000 mile car I picked up for her)
This car has an aftermarket car alarm that I would like completely removed from the car in a neat and tidy fashion.

Does anyone here know of a shop (professional or home shop just so long as the work is quality) where this work could be properly accomplished in the Arlington, VA area?

Thanks to all.
Have a happy Thanksgiving, and be sure to eat your share of the goodies.

10
I am wondering which battery cut off system I should use for a car that gets little use.
This is a 45,000 mile 1999 Toyota Camry LE, V6 my daughter is using.
Where she lives she seldom drive the car, often leaving it sit for two months at a time...and the battery goes dead.

I am thinking a battery shut off that she can easily manipulate might be of good service in this situation.

What do you suggest I use for this application.
Thanks for any and all help.

11
Member Projects / Trunk floor replacement 1966 Galaxie 7-LITRE
« on: October 21, 2023, 05:00:18 PM »
Hey all, I'm looking for experience about removing the HEAVY layers of tar like sound deadening on the trunk floor before trying to weld things back together.

Short version:
Accident ruins trunk floor.
Trunk floor was rusty so whole new trunk floor sourced in one piece.
whole trunk floor won't fit unless body removed from frame...cut new floor into sections and will weld back together in place.
Need to remove the tar before welding.....

What has worked for you to remove this stuff sufficiently to allow for quality welding?

Thanks and have a great day.

12
My friend has a 1962 Galaxie with a 352 and the 2spd automatic.
The auto needs work and he is considering installing a C6 instead.

I just don't remember if there are any bolt up issues with the 1962 352 to a 1967-1974 C6 for an FE.

If there are any "better" transmissions that will bolt up please let me know.
This 1962 Galaxie is just a fun cruiser with mostly stock everything.

Thanks and have a great 4th.

13
I am seeking a single "Mercury" script pent roof valve cover.
I am cleaning up a pair I have and one cover is rusted through.....Dang it!

Thanks and have a great day.

14
I am working on a 1969 Shelby GT500. (This is a factory configured car)
This car has the 428 SCJ/C6 "Drag Pack" option and I don't know what is specifically supposed to be on the carb for the kick down lever adjustments.

Currently the kick down linkage consists of the lever on the primary throttle shaft that actuates the primary float bowl vent stopper and the kick down engagement.

The kick down lever has the standard tube/rod with the recieving lever that interacts with the previously mentioned lever.....but there is no adjustment screw like I usually find used to fine adjust the moment of throttle opening/kick down.

The first lever simply bumps into the pad on the second lever and, other than bending the first lever, there is no adjustment.
Am I supposed to bend the first lever to adjust the kickdown?
There appears to be no extra space to allow for the adjuster screw, making bending the lever seem correct, but I want to be certain before I get to bending things.

I am asking because this car is acts like it needs adjustment here due to the fact it will not upshift into third gear without lifiting the throttle ever so slightly.
I have adjusted the modulator valve from highest to least and have not been able to cure this shift issue....I recently replaced the modulator valve just to be certain and still the same thing.....Both valves checked good with my vacuum tester though.

I have not run the engine past 5,800 rpm to see if it might shift just a bit higher, so keep that in mind, but if I lift, even the slightest, it shifts nicely into third gear and stays there when floored again.

When driving around in modes other than full throttle, from slow to moderate, the trans shifts through the gears well.
It does feel like this transmission has a shift kit in it due to the firm shifts, but on that I am not certain.

Thanks for the help.


15
I am wondering what is the current go to Type-F transmission fluid to use?

Type-F has been an industry standard fluid for a long time, as well as being used in the transmissions.
I have a C6 that will get a fluid and filter service and am just curious if there are any current better fluids to use for a transmission that is in an occasional use toy type car?

I know about many different brands and formulations but just want to hear what has been experienced.
Thanks in advance.

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