Did you actually check to see if the rotor was seated properly and try to push it down?

I took a buddies 462 and showed him "what I built it to do" LOL and after a hard 2-3 shift, it did much like your and I initially thought I broke it.  Turns out the rotor was slightly loose on the shaft and lifted.  I gave it a good once over, pushed it down and life was good for years.  Ultimately, we put a new tighter rotor on it but I would make sure. 

And yes, I may not have showed it, but I did miss a heartbeat or two when I thought I broke his engine after some bravado about not being afraid to let it eat....LOL

There is no way that I can say I have had the race solid roller experience you have, not that I have had none, but nowhere near as you and others.

Needless to say there has to be a ton of oil at the cam surface or every flat tappet would fail, but I do not think that equates to the cushioning of a pressure lubed pin, although we certainly could say the cushioning would happen on the OD of the roller too so I can't really say.  My disagreement, if you call it that, small rollers in a reciprocating shock environment, without pressure oiling (or maybe even with) are never the right piece. I do think the rollers are asking for trouble in the long term for the exact reason you stated, packaging in a small lifter bore, it forces the pressure on a couple needles, each of which has less oil film due to its small size. I have no proof, but I think a bushed lifter would be better based on Kentucky-windage engineering, regardless of price.

That being said, I do have way too much time pulling 3/4 and 1 inch torque wrenches on big diesels.  The diesel argument needs to be taken with a grain of salt.  Many Cummins and Detroit use and have used hydraulic lash adjusters, many Cat diesels use hydraulic rollers now, and even my beloved baby Cummins solid flat 24V pickup, changed to hydraulic rollers starting in 2019 (mine is a 2013 and I tight lash the intake greatly, but leave the exhaust to factory specs for more seat time for cooling on boost/high EGT). 

On top of that, solid rollers in big trucks DO fail, in fact, most are replaceable in big diesels.  In a big diesel they are called cam followers, and they have room for a big wheel, bushing and pin, and those followers (not the entire lifter) can and are easily replaced, often only making noise or lash when they fail.   You are spot on that the valve action and matters greatly, a silly slow ramp, low lift and often as little as a 2000-2500 operating window really make it a completely different environment.  Some Cummins run as tight as .008 cold intake, and even though they are .020+ exhaust, the exhaust valves run hot with a turbo and I assume grow a ton and the seat opens somewhat when really pulling on boost.   Lube options range on manufacturer, but I have seen oiled bushings or splash oiled bushing on most big diesel.  I have never taken a follower wheel apart to see if they were ever roller bearing though, but also never found any with a magnet or in a pan

In the end though, we agree lash can hurt, valve action matters, and uncontrolled valve train hurts even more.  I am also a hyd roller fan, relatively aggressive ramp capable, after some learning over the years readily will RPM.  My last 410C happily hit 7100 over and over again with nothing that fancy, beehives with steel retainers and standard travel Morels at .045-ish preload.  Not solid roller levels, but more than we did in the past.

In the end, we don't disagree, and I hope I am not stepping on your toes.  I'd be hard pressed to change a cam if it wasn't damaged in the original discussion (although on EDIT, I would be hard pressed to change only 1-2 lfters without thorough inspection) . I just think a solid roller is a benefit when it's ability to follow a ramp others cannot is needed, before that not so much.

War story, back in the early 2000s, I had a group of Rat Chevy customers and they were eating non-oiled pin rollers at 2-3000 street miles.  I called Comp and they said every 75 passes they should be rebuilt (75 x 1/4 mile) 

Now, a BBC offset loads the lifter, a BBC is not an FE, but I would not be surprised if a non-oiled pin failed.

Hopefully you didn't hurt too much, but if you can't get oil to them with your block, I'd likely pull the intake and swap/rebuild all 8 pairs.

If you did lose one and took out the cam, I'd likely do a solid flat with tool steel lifters.  long run I'd call it safer for a long hauler

What are you unhappy with? 

Did they provide a flow sheet?  The price is high indeed

I have not tried it, but thinking this through

- If the throttle is returning and the IAC is at the hold point (parked), the "ramp" for when the IAC takes over is a function of time and start and stop points.  Should literally look like a ramp with RPM on the Y axis and Time on the X axis.
- The RPM points on that graph are RPM Above Idle to Start Ramp (high limit) and RPM Above Idle to Start Idle Control (low limit)
- The time or rate it drops is ramp decay, or how fast to get across those two points above (seconds)

If RPM Above Idle to start Idle control was too high, I think your IAC would have to unscrew really quickly then screw back in very quickly (it's a small motor that drives a vacuum leak)

If I misunderstood your question and you were asking if RPM Above Idle to Start Ramp was too high.  I would think it would make the ramp less steep and slow throttle return. 

I have not played with these values enough to know how much matters.  My hunch is you had something with the low start ramp causing the IAC to cycle back and forth into the ramp, but it is just a WAG

Without going out to the shed and looking I believe this is what I use
IAC Hold Position 10%
Ramp Decay Time 2s
RPM Above Idle to Start Ramp 1700rpm (I believe Holley recommend starting at 1000 above idle in the manual)
RPM Above Idle to Start Idle Control (150rpm)

These settings seem very logical to me, start the ramp 1000 above idle, end it at just above idle, which ends up to be very close to where the IAC is parked (10%) and it takes over

It's nice to get the ECU away from the heat, but depends on the car and where you put the remote ECU to say if it's worthwhile.  Hang the ECU above the header on a fender, it may not be that beneficial.

I'd look at features you need, or expect to need in the future and go from there.  What is the build and the use of the engine?

Very nicely done! 

Keep in mind, header flanges are different for aftermarket heads and the truck iron. 

Some can be drilled or slotted to allow the gasket and port to be aligned and seal, some cannot.  I have a stroker in my own truck and I decided to port the iron.  Nowhere near the performance of TFS, but my headers were ceramic coated and fit well. 490HP @5000 with an almost too mild hydraulic flat tappet, would be deep into the 500s with the TFS

If you have the headers already, buy a pair of gaskets for a CJ car and see if there is room to mover the bolt holes around.  Unfortunately, I do not think anyone makes the correct header if it's a 4x4 anymore, FPA used to but stopped making 4x4 headers