Drag Springs

[Nightmist66]

Any drag racers with a Fairlane, Comet, Ranchero, Mustang, etc. What are you using for front coil springs? I need to get another set of shocks for the front and am debating on swapping a set of springs while I'm at it. I currently have stock replacement big block springs trimmed a little for ride height. Would a small block spring be better? Are the Moroso just re-boxed 6 cyl/small block type springs? Probably a dumb question, but TIA...

[cjshaker]

When I started racing, after a lot of research on what guys use, I ended up just using small block springs. They tend to naturally lower the car a bit from the extra weight (just perfect, in my opinion, on my car), and give good rise when launching. They'll both be "floaty" on the road, so you'll want to back them up with good shocks, preferably adjustable if you want to street drive and race it. That is unless you like the roller coaster feel..lol

From what I gathered, the Moroso springs were basically the same as small block springs, as far as spring rate goes. But most of the guys that I found that had ran them said it made their car sit tall because they were so long. Not sure if anything has changed with them, but that's the info that I came across.

Edit: Jared, I know you've seen my car stationary, but it's been a while, so I added a picture to show how the stance is. I originally had 14" wheels on the front with the big block springs that I originally had in it, but I switched out to 15's for a couple reasons. The 14's just sat too low with the small block springs, so I wanted to gain back a bit of clearance, plus I just like the bigger front tire look on a race car (not that my car is a race car). Coupled with the 1" lowered rear CalTrac split monoleafs, it has a slight rake, but nothing drastic.

[fryedaddy]

i trimmed my springs years ago and it made my front end too stiff.i put torino sb coils in it and its a lot springier than it was,but im no pro drag racer,just occasionally i race at the track,but i street race as often as i can.

[manofmerc]

On my 67 comet with 460 power I use the small block springs .Why? because that is what I had these are a little different .I had a 69 torino wagon with 351 Windsor ,I planed to scrap the car so I removed the springs for this comet which is a drag car .It sits fine and has good weight transfer .Over 20 years ago summit had some cheap adj. drag car shocks that is what I use for shocks .I have cal tracs and their rancho shocks on the back .I don't know if these 351 torino wagon springs are any different than a small block (302) if they are it probably isn't much .I to have read that those moroso springs are long so it must be so .I would imagine you might have to trim them to get an ideal ride height .Good luck with your spring hunt .Doug

[jayb]

I used small block springs on my Mach1.  Don't buy the ones for an A/C car, they are heavier.  Also, make sure you have at least 5" suspension travel from rest, before the front wheels come off the ground.  The shocks can sometimes be an issue there...

[gregaba]

I changed the ones in the 71 Ranchero over to Aldan Coilovers in the front with the Caltracs and mono leafs in the rear.
So far so good.
Greg

[John67427]

This is never an easy thing to do. Just my experience from going from iron block to all aluminum engine. Had original big block springs and when I switched engines the weight difference looked like I didn’t have an engine in the car. I had a friend that ran a Drag Fairlane and used Moroso springs but car sat to high. I remember him cutting them and after about 6 months it sat too low.
  I actually weighed the car front end and went to the Moog catalogue to try and figure what to purchase. Still was a toss up but I went with 289 car with A/C. Installed the springs thinking it would be lower- WRONG. I knew it needed time to settle so for two solid weeks I would bounce the front of the car as long as I could physically do it as long as I could do it. It did come down but I still wasn’t happy with front height. Ended up with 1/2 coil cut off. I have to agree with Jay about A/C springs I should have used similar spring close to rating without A/C and may not have had to cut

[machoneman]

If you do cut the springs, a little can go a long way! No easy formula but 1/2 coil, install, bounce, turn the wheel back and forth a  few times and roll the car front to back....then check your ride height. Pain in the butt but cutting too much and you're screwed.

[Falcon67]

In both the Falcon and the Mustang, I used Moroso Tricks #47160.  Thats with an all iron 351C sitting between the towers.  242 in/lbs, uncut.  You cut a spring and the rate goes up along with a change in frequency, so don't cut a spring unless you really, really need to.  And don't use a torch.  I've race the Falcon so many years that it's on it's 2nd set.  I run CE 3 way front shocks, set loose - the "90/10" setting.  Leaves good. 

[6667fan]

Jared, make it easy on yourself and just swap the shocks. If you don’t get the chassis rotation you need you change the springs next.

[BattlestarGalactic]

I run Moroso trick springs, and they work well.   Lots of front end travel controlled by good adjustable shocks will greatly help in getting a car to hook up.

I originally cut my Moroso springs(pt # 47190) to get the car as low as possible and get as much travel as possible.  I removed one full turn(max they suggest).  This past winter I replaced them with uncut version to raise the car about 1- 1.5".   They list them by weight so weigh your car and do the same.

A good adjustable shock will also aid in controlling the rise/fall.

 

[Nightmist66]

When I started racing, after a lot of research on what guys use, I ended up just using small block springs. They tend to naturally lower the car a bit from the extra weight (just perfect, in my opinion, on my car), and give good rise when launching. They'll both be "floaty" on the road, so you'll want to back them up with good shocks, preferably adjustable if you want to street drive and race it. That is unless you like the roller coaster feel..lol

Yes, it has been a little while now and my memory is a little foggy, so thank you for the picture. I also have the -1" split mono springs on mine. The stance is similar to yours. I like it. I was debating a set of the Calvert 90/10's. I could probably live with the floatiness. I have driven the car around on the street a little bit with the slicks at 15psi, and that can be exciting at times given the fine roads here in Illinois. 

[Nightmist66]

I used small block springs on my Mach1.  Don't buy the ones for an A/C car, they are heavier.  Also, make sure you have at least 5" suspension travel from rest, before the front wheels come off the ground.  The shocks can sometimes be an issue there...

Thanks, Jay. I was looking at the specs of the springs for the coil dia. and rate and could see that the A/C ones were a little stiffer. The travel is fine. I made some flat upper shock mounts, so the shocks have more extension.

[Nightmist66]

This is never an easy thing to do. Just my experience from going from iron block to all aluminum engine. Had original big block springs and when I switched engines the weight difference looked like I didn’t have a engine in the car. I had a friend that ran a Drag Fairlane and used Moroso springs but car sat to high. I remember him cutting them and after about 6 months it sat too low.
  I actually weighed the car front end and went to the Moog catalogue to try and figure what to purchase. Still was a toss up but I went with 289 car with A/C. Installed the springs thinking it would be lower- WRONG. I know it needed time to settle so for two solid weeks I would bounce the front of the car as long as I could physically do it as long as I could do it. It did come down but I still wasn’t happy with front height. Ended up with 1/2 coil cut off. I have to agree with Jay about A/C springs I should have used similar spring close to rating without A/C and may not have had to cut

I had read where people said the Moroso will sag over time. Thanks for confirming the non A/C spring being the way to go. I was starting to assume that just glancing at the specs between the two. Your car looks nice!

If you do cut the springs, a little can go a long way! No easy formula but 1/2 coil, install, bounce, turn the wheel back and forth a  few times and roll the car front to back....then check your ride height. Pain in the butt but cutting too much and you're screwed.

I had cut the coils probably 6-7 years ago at least now, but I wanted to be as careful as possible, so I went a 1/4 coil at a time. I ended up taking 3/4 of a coil off.

[Nightmist66]

Jared, make it easy on yourself and just swap the shocks. If you don’t get the chassis rotation you need you change the springs next.

I never do anything the easy way. Why make 1 change when you can make 10 changes at once and figure out what helped or didn't? Seems logical to me. BTW, which springs are you running?

In both the Falcon and the Mustang, I used Moroso Tricks #47160.  Thats with an all iron 351C sitting between the towers.  242 in/lbs, uncut.  You cut a spring and the rate goes up along with a change in frequency, so don't cut a spring unless you really, really need to.  And don't use a torch.  I've race the Falcon so many years that it's on it's 2nd set.  I run CE 3 way front shocks, set loose - the "90/10" setting.  Leaves good. 

I cut mine a while back for looks and yes, they did get stiffer. I knew they would, but it is still a pretty decent ride on the street considering. I used a cut off wheel to cut. I know the torch is a no no. Thanks for the feedback on the Moroso's.

I run Moroso trick springs, and they work well.   Lots of front end travel controlled by good adjustable shocks will greatly help in getting a car to hook up.

I originally cut my Moroso springs(pt # 47190) to get the car as low as possible and get as much travel as possible.  I removed one full turn(max they suggest).  This past winter I replaced them with uncut version to raise the car about 1- 1.5".   They list them by weight so weigh your car and do the same.

A good adjustable shock will also aid in controlling the rise/fall.

Thanks for the reply, Larry. Seems like some of you have had good luck with the Moroso. I am debating pulling the trigger on the QA1 single adjustable or the double adjustable Viking for the front. I think the double adjustable would be way overkill for my scenario. Maybe I will be fine with the Calvert? I know a guy who runs a spring and fender shop, so maybe I will see what he can find for me.