Prefered hone method for new type rings

[Barry_R]

I use engine oil after cleaning everything with multiple products. 
Like the illustration above - different solvents (soap & water, thinner, WD40, ATF) all seem to remove different stuff.
I just get a thin film of oil on rings, cylinder walls, and skirts.
No exotic powders or elixers.
Figure that the engine will live on oil for the rest of it's life after the first couple of seconds.
Top ring is probably lubricated by fuel as much as by oil...

[GerryP]

I use lint free cloths to wipe down the bores.  Paper is great for blowing your nose or wiping your...well, yeah.  I don't want paper fiber or lint embedding anywhere.  Everyone has a technique and all but dry installation seems to work.  I put an engine oil film on the walls and over the piston and rings and give the pin a couple oil squirts.  And on some recent videos from factory engine plants, they seem to use a little mop to coat the piston and rings.  Nothing really fancy or scientific in that.

[turbohunter]

This ^ was going to be my question. Wouldn’t paper leave residue?
Is microfiber better?

[gregaba]

All I know is it takes forever to clean a block and parts.
It seems like I spend a whole day on this every time I build one.
When I started out in the mid 60's building engines I did my best to keep them clean but mainly just assembled them as they came from the machine shop. Standard practice at the Ford, Chevy, and Chrysler dealerships I worked at.
I did get in the habit of changing the oil & filter after a half hour of running and told the customer to change the oil & filter after 500 miles.
I all so told them to change the oil & filter every 1500 to 2000 miles but I don't think anyone ever did.
Greg