Dilemma on 69 Fairlane engine?

[Gregwill16]

My 71 Ranchero 429 CJ came with the D servo stock. When I ordered the race rebuild kit for it I asked my trans rebuilder if I needed to order a D servo and he told me I all ready had one.
Greg

Is that an anomaly, did the R servo not continue into the 429 CJ?

[FESCJ]

Greg, I personally don't know about the C6 trans.....well, I don't know much. I've been a 4 Spd car guy until recently when my health slipped. Anyway, I need to do some more research to be better informed. I appreciate John427's input. He knows much more than I do, and his responses are very much appreciated!

I understand what you are saying regarding the 351 CJ C6 trans torque convertor. John427, your input has helped me much. Currently, (as opposed to 351CJ) I am looking at a Hughes FE large pilot torque convertor that has an advertised stall of 2200/2500 rpm. It would seem appropriate for my "mild" build and affordable at about $250 from Jegs, which is just up the street from me.

I really like this car I am building. It is a clone formal roof 69 Cobra. The paint will be 69 Thunderbird/Lincoln mid night orchid. Actually, if I'm totally correct, it will be a 69 Cobra Clone SCJ/Drag pack car. I pretty much decided that my final car restoration would be something that I would have ordered in 69.

Just to put it out there, special paint back then was around $100 per car. They hand sprayed stuff then, much much easier for special paint then, as opposed to now.

Thanks much,
Brian N

[RJP]

Never play with different servos unless you know what your application lever is. A 'R' servo with anything but an 'A' or a 'B' lever may cause the case to crack. There are 6 lever ratios and 9 different servos that I'm aware of and each is for a particular application and should not be mixed unless you really know what you are doing. For example:  a common mod would be putting a shift kit in the valve body to boost line pressure, that can cause even quicker damage as now you have increased the total apply pressure to a servo not intended to handle that increase in pressure plus couple that with a high ratio lever such as 'H' lever [2.18 to 1] or an 'F' lever that is 2.30 to 1 even a small increase of line pressure using a 'H' servo [2.34/3.02] or an 'R' servo [2.48/3.50] may break the case. In fact a full throttle/high rpm shift from low to 2nd with the wrong combination of levers and servos trying to stop the high/rev drum instantly is almost guaranteed of case breakage. May not happen the 1st time but your C6 is living on borrowed time. 

[427John]

Never play with different servos unless you know what your application lever is. A 'R' servo with anything but an 'A' or a 'B' lever may cause the case to crack. There are 6 lever ratios and 9 different servos that I'm aware of and each is for a particular application and should not be mixed unless you really know what you are doing. For example:  a common mod would be putting a shift kit in the valve body to boost line pressure, that can cause even quicker damage as now you have increased the total apply pressure to a servo not intended to handle that increase in pressure plus couple that with a high ratio lever such as 'H' lever [2.18 to 1] or an 'F' lever that is 2.30 to 1 even a small increase of line pressure using a 'H' servo [2.34/3.02] or an 'R' servo [2.48/3.50] may break the case. In fact a full throttle/high rpm shift from low to 2nd with the wrong combination of levers and servos trying to stop the high/rev drum instantly is almost guaranteed of case breakage. May not happen the 1st time but your C6 is living on borrowed time.

Spot on for the servo swapping,D's and G's are relatvely safe to swap,but the H's and R's are risky without looking up at the lever to see what letter it has the same tables I saw in the shop manuals also listed the lever ratios.The R in combination   with high ratio lever can easily crack a case,thats why they are not recommended by themselves but in conjunction with the matching lever.As far as the 429CJ trans having a D servo it defintely should have had the R servo and cast iron tailhousing but over the years if it had been rebuilt by an unscrupulous shop it was not uncommon for those to have been swapped with garden variety stuff,its pretty easy to say"I had to replace these because of this" to the average Joe.The cast iron tailhousings were also used on some PI's and Fleet apps.(taxis)but not by all by any means and as the 70's progressed they pretty much disappeared.I wouldn't be afraid to put a D on any C-6,but tread carefully when going larger than that.

[cammerfe]

Aftermarket servo covers are commonly sold with a matching lever. The spec sheet will give info about what to do regarding line pressure.

KS

[FESCJ]

I appreciate all of the responses on trans and torque convertor! As I said, it came out of a 68 Galaxie with 390 and has G servo. The trans has few miles on it since stock rebuild, but, I am now thinking it might be better to open it up and see what they did? Might be better, I'd rather know, and I could make a few changes.

I haven't had time to research convertor much. Having said that, I'll need the large pilot FE convertor. I know Hughes makes a nice one in the 2200/2500 stall range. Jeg's might have one in their own brand, and they are only a few miles away. Anyway, few things to consider.

Just as a note, the car will be painted in 1969 Thunderbird/Lincoln midnight orchid. I love that color. Kinda rare.

Thanks to all!
Brian N

[427John]

I appreciate all of the responses on trans and torque convertor! As I said, it came out of a 68 Galaxie with 390 and has G servo. The trans has few miles on it since stock rebuild, but, I am now thinking it might be better to open it up and see what they did? Might be better, I'd rather know, and I could make a few changes.

I haven't had time to research convertor much. Having said that, I'll need the large pilot FE convertor. I know Hughes makes a nice one in the 2200/2500 stall range. Jeg's might have one in their own brand, and they are only a few miles away. Anyway, few things to consider.

Just as a note, the car will be painted in 1969 Thunderbird/Lincoln midnight orchid. I love that color. Kinda rare.

Thanks to all!
Brian N

You shouldn't have to disassemble it,pulling the pan and getting a light up there should allow you to see the letter on the lever,worst case scenario a snake camera.Another converter that worked good for me was an ACC Boss Hog this was years ago and I've seen disparaging remarks about them since,but it worked really well in my street/bracket car 70 Torino 500 formal roof coupe with a somewhat built 429.This is the same car that I did the servo switch on.I got it all put together and tested it and it ran great except for the slow 2-3 shift.The engine pulled so hard I was certain the slow shift was going to kill the tranny in short order,I was ready to pull the tranny out and decided to try that D servo and it made a world of difference.

[Faron]

Unless I missed it , not a word about Ignition Curve,??? that's a MUST it will especially  help with manifold vacuum , drivng manners and to be safe with pump gas  , I would put a 11 inch converter in it ,( ive used these with great success in the past and recommend https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-441100   drop the gear to 3.50  and enjoy , I have a 428 68 Cobra Fairlane Clone at my shop and it has good Vacuum with a bigger 282s cam , it didn't at first but the owner was smart enough to have the Dist gone through it had been done by Tim O'conner ,( good guy IMHO )  but the curve was what he called the Tasca Curve , maybe good in 69 but NOT with today's gas

[FESCJ]

Good point Faron, and I should have mentioned this. The distributor was recurved and has Pertronix. Having said that, I don't remember the curve? I cannot find the engine info folder. As I stated way earlier in the thread, the engine was built nearly ten years ago. Much has gone on in my life since and folder misplaced. I just don't know?

I'll take a look at the convertor you suggested.

Thanks,
Brian

[427John]

Brian if your distributor is the original CJ piece you should be able to tailor your curve to what ever you want within the limits of the advance slots,even if your large one is only the 13 slot that will allow you dial in 26* of mechanical advance preventing you from having to use excessive initial to get the total you want.The late 60's vintage vacuum advance cans with the removable vacuum nipple is not only adjustable on vacuum setpoint but also on limit of amount of advance.Its kind of tedious changing,shimming,or cutting the spring and the phenolic mechanical stop,but you have the ability to dial in what ever you want,unlike the later allen wrench adjustable units which are easy to adjust for vacuum setpoint,but not so easy for advance limit,that will require some fabrication.