Hi, I'm probably chiming in a little late on this thread, but since your build sounds so much like mine, I thought I'd share some good (and bad) mods I did to my '64 Galaxie.... I embedded my responses into your 'grocery list', lol.
Sorry if it's a looong reply --it's about 5 above here, so not lots to do (being retired that is).
Hth Norm
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Ignition/Distributor
I was thinking an aftermarket with HEI built in such as the one DUI offers. Ive used them in the past on many cars and been happy. I see many point towards the Petronix however. Pros cons? I absolutely want to get rid of the points
Me: I agree with the consensus here, use a Ford duraspark distributor, or convert to/run Pertronix. I run a Pert II distributor on mine now, but yrs ago I just ran a simple Pert Igniter I on it. Then..... send the distributor to someone like Wes Adams or Faron Rhodes and get it recurved. Money well spent !!
Heads
Well, Id like to get a set of heads, have them rebuilt with hardened exhaust seats and perhaps minor porting valve job, correct springs for cam etc. Ready to put on my engine. Is there e particular casting I should look out for. Again mild so low rise or mid ride heads im guessing. Does that affect the intake choice?
Me: I added a RPM intake to my iron C4AE-G heads for a few years, but be aware there's a bit of a port mismatch there, and if you don't due some research on intake gasket choices, and use/non-use of the frt and rr rail gaskets, you may wind up with a 'crop-duster' --haha. In other words, the intake can 'slirp' oil up when running. I also found that even the touted Felpro 1247-S3 intake gaskets tend to 'squirm' around the water jacket ports --evidenced when I pulled those heads to replace with Edelbrock heads a couple years ago. These are just pitfalls I ran into --being a weekend 'putzer' that I am, and not a 'guru' like many of the members here. :p
Also: I find that folks are split on whether you need hardened seats --or not. As mentioned, there's not a lot of meat there to begin with, and for what your build intention is ...I dunno ! As an aside; I bought a pair of C4 heads from a supposedly good machinist, all done (seats et al) and ready to go .....And when I took them to my local machinist, he gasped and kindly advised me against using them --lesson learned for me !
When I swapped the iron heads for Edelbrocks in 2018, I took that port issue right out of the equation (since they're the same company and mate right up essentially). Ed's are 'ok', but will need looked over by a machinist (IMO) before using. There are also TFS (trick flow), BBM and Promaxx now (and maybe more ?) ..... I had my machinist do some mild bowl work on my Eds while he was fixing their build 'issues', lol.
Intake Manifold
From what Ive read a performer RPM would likely be the only way to go for a new intake that is relatively not to crazy or crappy. Would a used Street Dominator be good? What should I keep my eye out on used? I heard stock is not bad either for what it is but I want to used it as a door stopper)
Me: I run an RPM, but if you pick up Jay Brown's intake comparo book, there are more that work well too.
Camshaft
Looking towards a hydraulic camshaft. Considering the mild build ,intake choice, heads and I dont plan on doing a converter anytime soon, whats a good grind? Im figuring also to keep it 5,500 or under for longevity sakes. Now if the cam is on the verge of needing a converter I can live with that as the transmission will be addressed eventually. Figuring something in the low .500" lift range high 200" duration 112 lobe separation range. I've read custom grinds are obviously best suited but I really dont want to go there at the moment. Id also replace the chain and pushrods. I dont believe its solid lifter (doesn't sound like it) and I really don't know at the moment.
Me: I've read countless times that Oregon Camshaft rank very high. They will make (or sell you) a cam tailored to your engine/car combo. I run a Comp 270H in my '64, and honestly, it's a not ideal for such a heavy car. It's not bad mind you --I shoulda/coulda/woulda on this cam, imo, lol. IF I ever go back and redo my cam, I'd call them in a heartbeat.
Valvetrain: I honestly just run stock stuff there..... Yes, you can spend oodles and buy nice stuff (avoid the procomp, speedmaster, prw brand stuff). I may go back and add end stands on mine, but honestly I don't push the engine that hard. I spent many hours redoing each rocker arm, and bought new shafts and springs....kind of a 'basement blueprinting' lol ..... Order pushrods AFTEr you measure everything up ! It's just nice to have all that stuff done --correctly, so that at start up time you're smiling more
Carburetor
The edlebrock works fine but I was thinking of upgrading to a Holley 750 vacuum secondary. I would really like to upgrade to a simple EFI setup in the future but for now I want to stick to the above.
Me: I just run a Holley 650 vs .....I'm one of those 'less is more' kinda guys, carb wise. There's tons of opinions and knowledge on it, so I won't harp too much on it ---it's just my preference. There was an edelbrock on it when I bought it.......didn't like it much and went to a Holley. The EFI option sounds nice too !
Fuel pump
Looks original just like most everything else. Perhaps just a highflow replacement?
Me: I just run a stock mech fuel pump. Yes, I did have some fuel percolation problems 5 yrs ago, so I re-plumbed the line from pump to carb with a nice braided hose, and that seemed to help -along with some mods to the cooling system. With today's gas and all, EFI makes more and more sense.
Accessories
I plan on doing an alternator conversion. I also really like the not to obnoxious looking serpentine belt setup. That being said Id also go with a new waterpump and power steering pump. Any recommendation as to the type of pump I should upgrade to? There are a few options I can fit.
Me: I converted to a simple 60a 1970s Ford type alternator some years back. Since I didn't need fancy serp belt drives nor electric cooling fan and high-end sounds, that fits well for my needs. I can buy an off-the-shelf alternator in case I break down miles from home, etc. There are tons of Alt conversions online, no doubt you've seen them (for 3G using more late model units, etc). Mine is just one (simple) possibility.
I found a Tuff Stuff aluminum water pump for a 'nice' price --and have been running that for a few years now. Might be a less expensive alternative for ya ?
Power steering: I have manual on mine and actually love it ! If you still have the factory p/s, I would go through it and make sure it's all up to snuff. Prone to leaking/oozing and you have to be weary of that ball stud on the control valve --they CAN fail ! (I was a Ford tech and then parts manager at a Ford store and saw lots of these go 'kapow', lol. ) Borgeson makes a 'kit' for our cars, but it's quite the job from what I see --and hear. jmo
ps: If your car still has those offset lower control arm bolts, I would address that before you go on many cruises !
Headers
Nothing crazy I just cant believe how awful the factory design manifolds seem to be. Advice on brand? Sanderson?
Me: I couldn't afford FPA's when I wanted to do headers, plus with a 4-speed Stan advised me on the phone that I *may* still run into a fitment problem, so I went with some off-shore shorty headers I found online. They are similar to Sandersons and have really held up nicely. Yes, there are trade-offs between short and long headers, plus you have to marry your new headers to your existing exhaust --for me, since I wasn't seeking that last pound of torque or two for racing, shorties worked.
Radiator
Ill go with an aftermarket aluminum with electric fans. I've seen a few ideas online to go with.
Me: I chased a 'hot at idle' problem for a while in my car --came that way. So after a champion radiator swap and a bunch of other parts, I wound up just having my brass radiator redone locally and wal-la, that seemed to be the ticket for me. Lots of guys have had good luck with aluminum ones, so I am not discounting them --it just didn't work for me.
Also: I didn't wanna have to remove everything, and redo my alternator for electric fans (besides, room is tight for one, so make sure you do some homework beforehand)--so ultimately what wound up REAlly helping in the low mph and/or idling engine cooling was to go to a 6.25" water pump pulley versus the stock 7.25" one. E-fans are fine though ! ....and I see lots of them at car shows and guys I've talked to who own Galaxies .....
Gearing
I will likely upgrade to something based on the cam but not till after the above is done.
Me: Agreed ! I just left the original 3.50 gears in my car .... It's low enough to help the 'whale' get going, but high enough that I can still do some highway/freeway driving. I went to 28" tall rear tires to help out as well --anything taller I feel I really hurt the low-end. With my cam and how it's installed, it could use a numerically higher gear --but we like to just cruise in the car too much for that. :p
The above is basically the steps I want to take relatively soon with the car. Likely wont happen till it gets a bit warmer but will happen relatively quick once I start. Alot of the above I want to do for reliability with a bit of performance and engine appeal thrown in while overcoming some of the motors short comings. The next step after this is to just go a bit crazy and I dont need another car like that.
Anyway thats it for now and thanks for all the help Im surely going to need in advance
