Author Topic: Tunnel port advice  (Read 7110 times)

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wowens

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Re: Tunnel port advice
« Reply #30 on: October 04, 2020, 02:20:22 PM »
"That sounds like a great ride, was it a 4 speed? What gears? Do you think lower gears would’ve helped? Thanks"

Big in top loader, Hurst shifter. 3.25 gear, I drove 21 miles one way to work, AND couldn't afford two chunks.
Woody

1966lanetp

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Re: Tunnel port advice
« Reply #31 on: October 04, 2020, 02:34:26 PM »
"That sounds like a great ride, was it a 4 speed? What gears? Do you think lower gears would’ve helped? Thanks"

Big in top loader, Hurst shifter. 3.25 gear, I drove 21 miles one way to work, AND couldn't afford two chunks
.
I understand that! In 1971 I bought my first car a 68’ Camaro (20,000 miles on it for $1200) and then spent all my money and time modifying it for the next 2 years.

1966lanetp

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Re: Tunnel port advice
« Reply #32 on: October 05, 2020, 10:12:47 PM »
Thanks everyone for the good advice. I have my engine crated and am shipping it to Brent tomorrow.If everything checks out ok, we’ll go from there.

Leny Mason

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Re: Tunnel port advice
« Reply #33 on: October 08, 2020, 08:44:45 AM »
That will be a good choice I think, He has been great every time I have dealt with Him.

feracer

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Re: Tunnel port advice
« Reply #34 on: October 08, 2020, 09:23:18 AM »
Hi, everyone. My name is Randy I’m new here, but have been reading your forum for a couple years. I just bought a 427so with tunnel port heads and 2x4 single plane manifold. It was a running engine until pulled and then sit for many years, I pulled it apart and here’s what I found...
Block J23 standard bore, .005 taper on 2 front bores, the rest were under .003
Crank C5ae 630 0 0 the bearings all looked good.
Rods C6AE-E polished std. bearings look good.
Pistons C8AX 6110A skirts show minor wear.
Heads C70E 609K look stock with a full “thumbprint “ no port work.
Intake C70E 94425A has a crappie weld on a bolt boss, otherwise looks stock.
I’m happy so far, but what do I do next?
I’ve been talking to Brent about options.
1. Build it back stock with new bearings, rings, cam, valve train etc.
2. Build a 482 with modern parts, hyd roller etc. shoot for 600ish HP.
3. Add ported tunnel port heads and manifold (around 650 to 700hp).
4. Sell it to someone who needs a vintage engine and start over?

cammerfe

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Re: Tunnel port advice
« Reply #35 on: October 08, 2020, 09:45:54 PM »
In 1973 to 1975 my "only car" was a 67 Mustang fastback, 427 Tunnelport, two matched HM prepped carbs, HM 882 grind cam and dykes ring pistons. Heads and intake were unmolested.
If you can stand very bad street manners, keep it. Mine was a slug below 3500 and herky jerky around town. 3500 rpm to 7300 it was a bad ash ride.
Was my favorite.

During the '67 season, Brother Lon and I did some fairly serious work on his '67 Mustang. The 390 that came in the car was swapped for a factory, over-the-counter, 427 short block into which we placed a C8AX-D cam topped off with a set of spare TP heads that had been sourced from the LeMans testing program. We also used the dual-plane 2-4s manifold and the pair of 652 center-squirters that came as part of the top-end set-up. The C6 was gone through with all the best clutch parts and the governor had the valve lightened to where it had an automatic 6200 shift point with the vacuum shut off. We used a quarter-turn valve in the line to do so. Foot-brake stall in the converter was right at 3000, and the rear-end had a 4.44 DL in it. It buzzed pretty good at freeway speeds but was just the ticket around town.

Aside from having to be careful not to flood it on starting, and remembering to put your foot firmly on the brake pedal before shifting into 'Drive', it was easy to get around with. It was Lon's only car that summer.

KS