'69 Mustang Fuel Line Routing (Return System)

[CV355]

Does anyone have any pictures of an especially clean fuel line (supply & return) routing for a '69 or '70 Mustang?  Same goes for regulator and fuel pump mounting.

I have some ideas myself, but I'd like to see what others have done to make this as clean as possible.  At the moment, I'm considering routing the supply and return lines parallel along the driver's side framework similar to the original supply line.

[My427stang]

Here is mine, I went 1/2 inch, and it has dual pumps sunk into the tank for EFI. 



I routed the lines in the stock location, mirrored on each side, although it's tough to see in this pic, I used AN pass through fitting and ran a hose to the rail, and then to the regulator, then hard line back to tank



If you zoom in there, you can see the pass through and the hard line.  It is mirrored on the other side, as I didn't run it all the way forward to the original location with EFI.  All lines under the car follow original routing (except on both sides) and are held in place by rubber cushion (Adel) clamps



Hope this helps

[CV355]

Here is mine, I went 1/2 inch, and it has dual pumps sunk into the tank for EFI. 

Hope this helps

That helps a lot!  I appreciate it!

Is the pressure regulator over by the blower motor- I'm assuming so based on the bulkhead fitting. 

[jayb]

I ran 1/2" lines right along the same path as the original lines.  Only thing I had to do was drill a second hole in the torque box for the second fuel line.  I started with a RobbMc fuel tank sender, which has the 1/2" pickups already installed, see the link below.  Works great, no problems.

https://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/1085_fordsend.html

[My427stang]

Here is mine, I went 1/2 inch, and it has dual pumps sunk into the tank for EFI. 

Hope this helps

That helps a lot!  I appreciate it!

Is the pressure regulator over by the blower motor- I'm assuming so based on the bulkhead fitting.

Yes, if you follow the braided line from the passenger side fuel rail, you can just barely see the regulator.

If external pump, Jay's setup makes it much easier, but I wanted to sink the dual pumps and used a Tanks Inc bracket and baffle, modified to hold two pumps.

[Falcon67]

FYI - of you intend to take it down a sanctioned drag strip, rules prohibit fuel regulators mounted on the firewall. 

[CV355]

I ran 1/2" lines right along the same path as the original lines.  Only thing I had to do was drill a second hole in the torque box for the second fuel line.  I started with a RobbMc fuel tank sender, which has the 1/2" pickups already installed, see the link below.  Works great, no problems.

https://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/1085_fordsend.html

That sounds like what I'm aiming for.  Did you mount the regulator down in front of the driver's side shock tower?  I'd like to keep the regulator there, but the Aeromotive regulator I have has a much different port arrangement than the Holley dead-head regulator I had. 

FYI - of you intend to take it down a sanctioned drag strip, rules prohibit fuel regulators mounted on the firewall.

I don't see this car going down the strip, but you never know what the future holds.  It has been 10 years since I was on the 1320... 

Good advice nonetheless!

[jayb]

I went with a return style fuel system and a carb, not EFI, on that particular vehicle.  Will change to EFI in the future.  The return style regulator is a Moroso unit, and mounts up right next to the carb.  You could put an Aeromotive regulator in the same place.  Mounting it up there keeps the fuel going to the carb as cool as possible, which was the objective for me in installing the return style fuel system in the first place.

As Ross mentioned my electric fuel pump is external to the tank, back near the pickups.  I don't use a mechanical pump on this car, but in the past I've run the same system with the mechanical pump and had no issues.

[CV355]

I went with a return style fuel system and a carb, not EFI, on that particular vehicle.  Will change to EFI in the future.  The return style regulator is a Moroso unit, and mounts up right next to the carb.  You could put an Aeromotive regulator in the same place.  Mounting it up there keeps the fuel going to the carb as cool as possible, which was the objective for me in installing the return style fuel system in the first place.

As Ross mentioned my electric fuel pump is external to the tank, back near the pickups.  I don't use a mechanical pump on this car, but in the past I've run the same system with the mechanical pump and had no issues.

I hadn't considered that...  Not a bad idea! 
I just installed a sump tank with rear-facing ports.  The fuel pump is an in-line with a 100mic pre and 10mic post filter.  All in all that unit is about 16" in length, so I'm mounting that up in front of the tank near the axle housing.  From there, routing the lines looks simple until I get to the engine bay.  The original routing kicks through the torque box as you stated, but from there is where I am getting hung up.  I have -10an feed and -8an return, so the bend radius isn't exactly friendly.  I'm figuring a bulkhead fitting with two 90's should be fine.  Not the best for flow but the pump is capable of far more than I'll be using. 

Moving the regulator closer to the carb might solve the return line issue...  Thanks!

[My427stang]

I went through the apron with bulkead fittings and made sure I stayed ahead of the flywheel/bellhousing plane.  The bulkhead fittings are slick though, my favorite way to pass through an apron

[jayb]

Sounds like you have an A1000 pump and filters.  I mounted mine ahead of the tank in my Mach 1 and my Galaxie, and used the Aeromotive sump with the rear facing inlet/outlet.  I like the bulkhead fittings for going through the fender apron too, and have had no issues with fuel flow using a 90 degree bulkhead fitting on the outside and a 90 degree hose end on the inside, both cars over 900 HP.  Should work just fine for you.

[CV355]

Sounds like you have an A1000 pump and filters.  I mounted mine ahead of the tank in my Mach 1 and my Galaxie, and used the Aeromotive sump with the rear facing inlet/outlet.  I like the bulkhead fittings for going through the fender apron too, and have had no issues with fuel flow using a 90 degree bulkhead fitting on the outside and a 90 degree hose end on the inside, both cars over 900 HP.  Should work just fine for you.

That's good to know!  I was concerned with a double-90, but being pre-regulator the pressure is whatever the pump is pushing.  I'm feeling a bit better about this now haha. 

I tell my wife "I can make it work, but I want it to work and look good.  The last part is the hardest."

[CV355]

Just in case someone stumbles on this thread looking for more routing pictures and ideas...  Here they are...

It's still in progress.  I am cleaning up the looming so everything is spaced evenly, and I plan on adding heat shield around the loop over the rear end.  These run up to -8 and -10 bulkheads in the battery tray location in the engine bay.  Super clean, all tucked and safe.

I popped 4 holes in the passenger torque box and made a pass-thru out of silicone tubing held in with firewall sealant.  I actually have the orientation flip from flat to vertical in the torque box so the lines run straight out along the frame rail in the passenger fender area. 

[Falcon67]

Looks about the same routing that I used on the Falcon, except I didn't bother coming under the fender.  They come right up from the torque box, in front of the fire wall into the engine compartment. 

[CV355]

Looks about the same routing that I used on the Falcon, except I didn't bother coming under the fender.  They come right up from the torque box, in front of the fire wall into the engine compartment.

I thought about that- it's the same way I had on my '00 GT drag car.  But in the case of the '69, the REF headers take up most of that space.