Tuff Stuff Gear Reduction Starter Wiring Assistance.

[1967FEGT]

Hello:
I was curious if anyone had worked with the Tough Stuff gear reduction starters and installed it in an early FE Mustang.  The instructions call for moving the starter cable to the battery side of the solenoid. There is a solenoid on the starter that requires a second wire to the solenoid which the manufacture suggest using the right terminal of the starter solenoid to energize the starter mounted solenoid.  The car is a Shelby so I really don't want to change any wiring at the solenoid.
I called their tech line and wound up talking to their staff engineer. I asked about leaving the starter wired to the solenoid as Ford had designed and simply using a jumper from the starter cable terminal at the starter to the solenoid.

Has anyone done this? Anything to be concerned about?
I had read about Powermaster starters staying energized because of the earth magnets used in them.
Any real world experience with the change over would be helpful

[DubyaTF]

   I'm running a Powermaster and per their instructions was able to run the Ford factory relay with no visible changes. You have to install a jumper wire on the starter to engage the internal relay and run your factory relay cable to the motor-side of the starter.

[Faron]

If in the instructions they recommend to move the Hot Wire  Do It if not the Starter WILL stay engaged for a few seconds , if they tell you you can use the Jumper than You Can , On the starters that allow you to use a jumper Either way Works , Go by the Instructions , I've had to fix this on two customers cars with the Permanent Magnet style ,because they ignored the Instructions and used a jumper , its a simple deal , and you only need to add ONE wire 

[427mach1]

I've got a RobbMc starter and their instructions call for rewiring as you described.   I've been running it that way for over 10 years without any problems.  Why are you opposed to wiring it as the manufacturer suggests?  No one is going to notice that you have rewired your solenoid...

[1967FEGT]

Well, yes. It is noticeable. It's a 1967 Shelby. It has wiring which separates part of the charging system because of the under dash ammeter.  It also has the factory convenience  group.  The wiring instructions want the battery cable moved from the back side of the solenoid post to the battery side of the solenoid.
It's problematic because of the separate junction block. 
I had a difficult time getting Tuff Stuff to return my call.  I know so many have worked with about every scenario that there would be someone who ran into the situation. 

[1967FEGT]

Update:
I did get a return call this evening. The engineer returned my call and I explained my predicament. A simple 12 gauge jumper about three inches long was made which simply connects the internal solenoid with the power cable from the Ford solenoid.  I was told by Tuff Stuff there was a safety built into the starter that avoids the issue with the Power Master when wired as I planned on doing.
 This is never a fun job to do on one's back with Hooker long tubes. 
Anyway, with the gear reduction starter and I gather didn't have the issue of some of the power master units so hopefully I'll get a morning drive before it gets muggy and I depart for three days of the week tomorrow afternoon.

[1967FEGT]

The tuff stuff gear reduction starter will not clear an FE car with Hookers. It only has two clockable positions which does not allow clearance.
Thanks for those who responded.

[DubyaTF]

   The Powermaster 9606 has the 360° clocking. My application is a 2WD 65 F100 with a 390 but the wiring off the relay is the same. Added a small jumper and wired the relay as normal. Works like a champ clears the block and my FPA tri-Y headers with at least an inch all around. No issues with it staying engaged or any other funny business.

[1967FEGT]

That looks to have more room than the Mustang with Hookers. There was only two clocking positions with the gear reduction unit.
I wound up buying the Powermaster high torque factory type replacement.  Less than a half inch clearance from the side of the starter at the middle bolt.

As for the header wrap: Does that seem to have much of an affect on cabin temperatures?

[DubyaTF]

   There's lots of room in these old trucks even with the FE. You can drop headers in from the top or bottom on mine. You just can't sneak the starter passed the headers with everything bolted up. lol

    I'd say the heat wrap does more for under hood temps than anything and, as you can see, I went nuts with DEI stuff on everything else too. I have older FPA tri-y headers that were chromed when new and wanted to cover up the ugly with wrap rather than get them coated just to drop a wrench or screw driver and ruin the finish. I think next time I pulled them for any reason, I'll paint the headers with white VHT paint and wrap them again.

[BattlestarGalactic]

I just put a McRobb in the wagon.  They allow two versions(move the wire or not).  The big issue is using the "I" terminal to engage the starter solenoid.  They give you a diode if you use that terminal to your coil(I don't on race car).

[gregaba]

I use Zybar on all my headers with great results. It is a bit expensive but you don't have to send your headers off for a few weeks to get them coated,you save shipping costs and you don't have to worry about chipping them.
It reduces radiant hear by 90% and overall underhood temp's by 40%.
If you do scratch them you can just touch them up with a light spray or a brush.
The good thing is you can apply them at home and don't have to send them off.
Just use a blaster with aluminum oxide to clean them with and then spray. Let them cure for 4 days and bolt them up or if you have a over big enough for headers you bake them for2 hours at 450 degrees.
I paid $300.00 a pint which does both headers [Hooker super comps]and did the blasting and spraying in my shop.
Except for the blasting [they have to be really clean] it was an easy job and they hold up for a long time.
Greg