$825.00 engine stand?

[blykins]

Bob Glidden was working on Clevelands…...cylinder walls were probably only .050" thick LOL

I have engine stands of all different kinds.  I still have the very first engine stand I ever bought and it's a HF stand.  It's been welded in a couple spots. 

I also have one with a rotation handle (crank the engine over) and it's a pain in the hindend to me. 

[machoneman]

Bob Glidden was working on Clevelands…...cylinder walls were probably only .050" thick LOL

How true! I wonder how he did the Boss 429's when Pro went to the 500" rule?

[frnkeore]

Cast iron is rigid , stable and doesn't flex much, before breaking. That's why it used in machine tools. If you adhere to the theory of it flexing on a engine stand, imagine what the torque would do to it, in the car.

That said, the old cast in bell housing of the 59a and earlier flat heads, COULD break the bell housing off, when hung by that end, on a stand and did on some of them. Ford's FH mount used the side exhaust ports to mount it on a stand.

[Heo]

We bought out a school for car mechanics, there was several
floor munted engine stands. With ballbearing and a disc with
holes bored around the circumference with a springloaded pin
and a shaft at the end to attach what ever you like to hang on it
So maybe 20 positions you can.block it in. I welded that on top
of a cheap stand from Swedol and used a 8mm plate i drilled
for various block bolt patterns. And a side mount to the exhaust
ports for the flatheads I don't like those adjustable arms
that is on most stands

[machoneman]

Cast iron is rigid , stable and doesn't flex much, before breaking. That's why it used in machine tools. If you adhere to the theory of it flexing on a engine stand, imagine what the torque would do to it, in the car.

That said, the old cast in bell housing of the 59a and earlier flat heads, COULD break the bell housing off, when hung by that end, on a stand and did on some of them. Ford's FH mount used the side exhaust ports to mount it on a stand.

The very first LS blocks GM cast (in iron) that were used in NHRA Stock and Superstock drag racing broke the water jackets around the engine mounts. This was a big surprise to racers and I'm sure GM! High hp and hard wheelie landings were the cause per National Dragster magazine. Adding more metal around those areas was the fix.

[mike7570]

All I could say is I wouldn't have argued anything about engine building with him 

[cjshaker]

I have engine stands of all different kinds.  I still have the very first engine stand I ever bought and it's a HF stand.  It's been welded in a couple spots. 

I also have one with a rotation handle (crank the engine over) and it's a pain in the hindend to me.

My old engine stand (can't remember where I got it) has been beefed up and rewelded. I got too nervous seeing how big block engines drooped on it. Cheap ones generlly can work if they're beefed up.

I wouldn't trade my hand crank job for anything. Not having to muscle over a heavy ass block, and hope it doesn't suddenly 'spin' on you, is very nice! The one I got is very smooth and precise, and doesn't roll in any position I put it in.

The very first LS blocks GM cast (in iron) that were used in NHRA Stock and Superstock drag racing broke the water jackets around the engine mounts. This was a big surprise to racers and I'm sure GM! High hp and hard wheelie landings were the cause per National Dragster magazine. Adding more metal around those areas was the fix.

I have ALWAYS been amazed that hard launches don't just rip the sides of blocks off, on just about any engine! That's a large flat area of thin cast iron, with no internal supports in any central areas. I'll bet there is a degree of flex going on though. That can be some huge torque stress placed on that area!

[cammerfe]

I remember reading, long ago, that Kaase used a 55 gallon drum with spots around the top rim pounded to shape to fit a Boss 9 block when he was building engines for Nicholson. I remember pictures of the way he did it. In Hot Rod, I think. Made it possible to stand upright. I think he moved the engine using a cherry picker.

KS

[chris401]

I used one similar at a shop I worked in. If I actually did several tear down and builds a week as a norm, I would pick one up. The organisation treys and built in drip pans keep things neat. That equals time gained on the books. When being the senior tech became my turn I don't remember anymore than three heavy engine jobs at once. Meaning engines that were out of the vehicle being rebuilt on a stand.

Both of my personal engine stands come from NAPA. If it couldn't safely hold a pickup diesel engine I didn't need it.

[Falcon67]

The orange HF stand is good enough for a small block.  Frankly, not to give anything to Chinese butter-steel, but that photo looks like a bad Photoshop job.  I did try to put a 429 on an orange HF "750 lb" stand - started to look more like a weeping willow than an engine stand.  I ordered a 1400 lb unit from Northern Tool.  It's a nice unit, but is really short out of the box for a 6' guy.  I went by a friends fab shop and picked up a scrap piece of 2x3 and added 4" to the mast to make it easier to work with.  My go-to stand is an three point Eagle I bought in 1975.  Had many 302s and 351Cs on it, never blinked. 

The modified NT stand -  4' added just below the bar holder.  Rustoleum rattle can red matches perfect.

[Heo]

My stand looks just like Chris NT stand and i modified it with this "Head"