Adjusting the position of the clutch/brake/gas pedals on a bumpside truck.

[Yellow Truck]

Not an FE question per se, but I find I'm not driving my FE as much as I'd like because the pedals are too far off the floor, and I'm too tall to get far enough away from them. My knees are not getting more limber, and I can't move the seat further away, so looking at moving the pedals further from the seat.

• Clutch sits 7 inches off the floor with 5 inches of travel. I can't tell where the release point is (need someone on the clutch while I look through the inspection plate).
• Brake sits 7 3/4 inches off the floor with a little over 2 inches of travel, doesn't need as much travel since I put power brake booster in it.
• Gas sits 6 1/4 off the floor with 4 1/4 inches of travel

I can get some movement back on the clutch if I move the attachment point for the linkage further from the fulcrum.

Wondering if this is something anyone else has done, and any suggestions. Have access to a small machine shop.

[winr1]

On my 65 F100... I drilled the holes for the gas pedal assembly 1" higher

Have not moved the clutch/brake pedals ... will go look at mine and see ..

Not sure if our pedals mount the same though



EDIT.... your truck have a fuel cable or linkage ??




Ricky.

[wowens]

IF your brakes & clutch work well. Why not cut a wedge out if pedal arm up high and bend pedal arm to where you want it & weld it up. Bend the gas pedal arm to where you want it or lengthen linkage to lower go pedal.

[Yellow Truck]

My throttle is a rod. I think I can bend it a little, maybe make a new end and shorten it. Trick is to maintain WOT with reduced movement.

On the brakes, I'm thinking I just need to shorten the linkage or put a spacer in between the master brake cylinder bracket and the firewall.

For the clutch I might be able to either make a longer rod down through the floor, which will move the pedal closer to the floor, or possibly adjust the linkage to lengthen it to rotate the z-bar and move the rod up (and the pedal down towards the firewall). I need to check to make sure I know where the clutch actually disengages and engages - for that I need a helper which I will have tomorrow.

Regarding cutting and welding the pedals, that is not a bad suggestion, except that getting replacements is next to impossible so it would be a last option deal.

[BattlestarGalactic]

You've got the situation handled.  The only thing left is adjust the bump stops at the top to hold the clutch/brake pedals lower.

The clutch pedal is the only one I can see some issues with.  You need free play at the top so the TOB doesn't ride on the levers.  You need enough travel to disengage it fully.  Without changing the Z bar ratio you might run into problems if you lower the pedal very much.

If you change the ratio of the Z bar to get more throw with less pedal travel, the effort needed to push the clutch will grow exponentially.   The rod from the clutch pedal would need move closer to the center of the Z bar and the clutch side would need move outward.  That would increase the travel of the clutch with less pedal movement.

[Yellow Truck]

I think I have the clutch pedal in a better place. I took off the inspection plate and had my friend move the pedal, it showed me I had easily a 3/4 inch I could take out before the TOB touched the fingers, so I took out 1/2 inch, and adjusted the linkage to raise the rod and lower the pedal. We then made a new bump stop to limit the upper travel after releasing the TOB.

It moved the pedal about 3 inches lower. Started work on the brake but ran short of time, I'll get on it tomorrow.