Author Topic: Preferred Fasteners for Intake  (Read 5235 times)

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Riderjeff

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Preferred Fasteners for Intake
« on: February 17, 2020, 06:18:13 PM »
I thought there might be a remote chance of picking up a "genuine Edelbrock" fastener kit for my Streetmaster Intake.  Then I called Edelbrock. "That intake's 40 years old..." was the response; needless to say, they weren't much help.

So just throwing this out to those with lots more experience with me, do you have a "go to" supplier and are there any hidden fastener issues fitting the Streetmaster?  I'm leaning towards the ARP 155-2102 kit, don't need the Stainless bling, and prefer to avoid possible galvanic issues.

TIA, Jeff

Chrisss31

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Re: Preferred Fasteners for Intake
« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2020, 07:19:09 PM »
I like https://www.mcmaster.com/ If they don't have it there it probably doesn't exist.

cjshaker

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Re: Preferred Fasteners for Intake
« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2020, 09:57:04 PM »
Your local hardware store...

Unless you want the bragging rights of expensive ARP stuff, or want to wait several days for a mail shipment, an intake won't care what bolt is in it, or where it came from. They don't need to be grade 8 either. And intakes being what they are, your common bolt length differences of 1/4" may end up being a tad bit too long or short. In that case, you have to get one a bit longer than needed and grind/cut it down or stack a couple washers under them.

Edit to add that you do want to get heavy thick washers though. Typical thin washers will deform and can damage the aluminum in the intake.
« Last Edit: February 17, 2020, 09:59:13 PM by cjshaker »
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My427stang

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Re: Preferred Fasteners for Intake
« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2020, 10:04:07 PM »
I use a guy off Ebay, bns-2000, when I need new stuff

Typically I like Grade 8 from a hardware store, but sometimes you need a small head and an exact length and this guy sells a set cheap and you can tell him which intake, or as what I do, measure what I need and just tell him lengths and quantity.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-FE-390-428-Intake-Manifold-Bolts-Grade-8-Black-Oxide-12-Point-NEW/362469579618?hash=item5464dedb62:g:O6cAAOSwstxVBegL
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Heo

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Re: Preferred Fasteners for Intake
« Reply #4 on: February 18, 2020, 04:39:51 AM »
Here is what i did to spotface the Streetmasters Boltholes
http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=3977.30
Then i used a hardened washer same dia as the spotface
« Last Edit: February 18, 2020, 04:41:37 AM by Heo »



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CV355

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Re: Preferred Fasteners for Intake
« Reply #5 on: February 18, 2020, 07:54:01 AM »
I use ARP.  I know it's a premium, but I also know it is good stuff.  $60 for some gorgeous stainless intake bolts that don't see much torque, but are right up front and visible- worth it in my opinion.

"The More You Know:"
As for hardware from the hardware store, be careful with certain coatings.  Black oxide is the most common, and it is garbage since it is only a matter of time until they rust (further).  Black Zinc is risky because cheaper BZ fasteners exhibit hydrogen embrittlement, and often cant reach torque yield values without shear fracturing.  Reputable manufacturers use black zinc with no issues as the coating process is more controlled, so it is a safe fastener.  Stainless looks nice, great corrosion resistance, but I won't use it in high torque or high strength areas (most SS hardware is similar to grade 5) but costs up to 4x more than low-carbon equivalents.  Silver zinc is my favorite all-around, and honestly I don't know why it isn't as plagued by embrittlement issues as the black zinc (maybe because you don't see the ultra-cheap mfgs using silver zinc?). 

When buying from a hardware store, like Midwest Fasteners and such, be careful about strength designations:
Grade 2:  Low Strength
Grade 5:  Medium Strength
Grade 8:  High Strength

Class 4:  Metric, similar to Grade 2
Class 8.8:  Metric, similar to Grade 5
Class 10.9:  Metric, similar to Grade 8
Class 12.9:  Metric, exceeds Grade 8

Do not confuse 8.8 for Grade 8.  Some places casually intermix the terms (such as "Grade 8.8").  For the vast majority of uses, it won't matter.  Your intake wont care if you use Grade 5 or Grade 8.  In my line of work, we've actually had to make our own fasteners out of Stressproof 1144 because 12.9 wasn't strong enough in certain applications.

« Last Edit: February 18, 2020, 08:09:01 AM by CV355 »

Falcon67

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Re: Preferred Fasteners for Intake
« Reply #6 on: February 18, 2020, 09:29:34 AM »
Fancy - plated socket head cap screws, hardened washers.  Also ARP.  Plain - regular hex head bolts, also with hardened washers if you can find such.  The washers under the hex head bolts on the 351C are left over ARP washers. 

Heo

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Re: Preferred Fasteners for Intake
« Reply #7 on: February 18, 2020, 10:11:15 AM »
Fancy - plated socket head cap screws, hardened washers.  Also ARP.  Plain - regular hex head bolts, also with hardened washers if you can find such.  The washers under the hex head bolts on the 351C are left over ARP washers.

On the Streetmaster FE there is no room to get a tool on a regular hex head bolt in a few holes
at least on mine



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Rory428

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Re: Preferred Fasteners for Intake
« Reply #8 on: February 18, 2020, 02:17:35 PM »
When I bought my first Streetmaster new back in the mid 70s, there was a set of 4 special intake bolts included, look like long 7/16" head header bolts. I have a couple of sets of new Edelbrock intake bolts still in the original 70s packaging, but I will have to compare them to the bolts for my Streetmaster. Or if somebody has a 70s Edelbrock catalog, I will post the part numbers later today. These bolts are needed as the curved intake runners are really tight in those 4 bolt holes for a 9/16" head bolt and wrench.
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TomP

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Re: Preferred Fasteners for Intake
« Reply #9 on: February 18, 2020, 02:50:56 PM »
I have seen 9/16" headed bolts in them, maybe tapped past the runners. I used Allen head bolts and they fit or you can buy 12 point or smaller headed 6 point bolts individually from ARP. Streetmaster is about the only intake the bolts are any issue on.

Falcon67

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Re: Preferred Fasteners for Intake
« Reply #10 on: February 18, 2020, 03:17:19 PM »
On the Streetmaster FE there is no room to get a tool on a regular hex head bolt in a few holes
at least on mine

The two center bolt holes on each side of my 351C Funnelweb are too tight to the runners to use anything but 5/16 socket head cap screws and bitty washers, so I hear that problem.

57 lima bean

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Re: Preferred Fasteners for Intake
« Reply #11 on: February 18, 2020, 06:45:30 PM »
             You may want to chase the threads on a plated bolt.

Riderjeff

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Re: Preferred Fasteners for Intake
« Reply #12 on: February 18, 2020, 07:42:53 PM »
When I bought my first Streetmaster new back in the mid 70s, there was a set of 4 special intake bolts included, look like long 7/16" head header bolts. I have a couple of sets of new Edelbrock intake bolts still in the original 70s packaging, but I will have to compare them to the bolts for my Streetmaster. Or if somebody has a 70s Edelbrock catalog, I will post the part numbers later today. These bolts are needed as the curved intake runners are really tight in those 4 bolt holes for a 9/16" head bolt and wrench.

I'd be interested to see what you come up with. The "customer service" person at Edelbrock declared to me that no such animal existed...
I was/am a little concerned about the interior fasteners, but it'll all get worked out.

And thanks to everyone who's chimed in, I've bought my share of fasteners but I knew I'd learn something on this forum.  That's just the way it rolls.

Falcon67

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Re: Preferred Fasteners for Intake
« Reply #13 on: February 19, 2020, 10:47:17 AM »
>12 point or smaller headed 6 point bolts individually from ARP.

This would be a good option - I use some plated ARP header bolts on the dragster to clear the pipes, they are 3/8-16 thread with a 5/16 12 point head.  Can get a small head 5/16 box end wrench in some tight places.

67428GT500

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Re: Preferred Fasteners for Intake
« Reply #14 on: February 19, 2020, 01:56:03 PM »
Completely different animal than a 351C.  Be ABSOLUTELY sure the bolt doesn't bottom out. AMK bolts for the C7ZX were too long in the first runs. They bottomed out and the intake pulled oil/air. It took me disassembling it twice and looking at the crush pattern to understand why.  They have since rectified the issue.
Be sure to use a washer under the bolt and that the manifold is spot-faced properly of they tend to crack with 32 lbs of torque.

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