As Heo pointed out, drum brakes using quality parts and properly adjusted do a pretty good job. Any of we old-timers who grew up on drums know from our experience. I never experienced fade in normal use. I have experienced wet brake fade but, again, old-times know if you drive through deep puddles to give the brakes a couple of applications to clear water out of them. This is just simple math, but if you look at the friction surface area, drum brakes have more apply area than all but the biggest disc brakes, so you have much higher static friction and, up to the point of fade, higher dynamic force.
So, am I advocating a return to drum brakes? No, of course not. I point this out only to raise the most important issue in building a braking system: Tires.
A lot of the down side to drum brakes back then weren't brake problems, but tire problems. The drum brake period was also the belted bias-ply tire period. Those tires were as crappy as you could get. People talk about how you had to be careful with drum brakes and avoid lock-up. Yep, you sure did but that was a tire inadequacy, not a brake problem. And remember how much mileage you routinely got from those tires? If you got 20k miles, you were a hero.
So, where am I going with all of this? Tires. Brakes will easily overcome the traction of most road tires. I know I can easily skid the tires on my non-ABS vehicles. So, do I solve this by upgrading the brakes...you know; bigger discs, more aggressive friction material, more brake pressure? That doesn't seem effective. Maybe a stickier tire would help here.
Which brings this to a circle back. The tires available to you in 15" and smaller rim sizes are not very good for traction. If you want more stopping power, more cornering force, more forward bite, you need a stickier tire and for those reasons, you generally have to go to the bigger rim diameters to open up the availability of tires.
Of course, if you're just cruising around, then your tires could be made of wood and you'd probably be okay.