1-wired alternator and V-belt squeal

[1976kjell]

Hello and merry christmas


I have a quite similar problem as Pentroof had: https://bit.ly/2QojQoO

In my case, a 1-wired alternater like this https://bit.ly/2t1YGF4 was installed, with a custom bracket like this https://bit.ly/2Q06WhZ


Its the same problem, at start ups, it squeals in some seconds, now and then more than 10 seconds, maybe 30 seconds. When the engine gets hot, its silent

As the attacked images show, the V-belt for the alternator/waterpump has a 10mm wide belt. It is a bit "deep down" in the groove imo.

The belt for the powersteering is 12 mm wide and it looks it isnt as deep in the groove as the 10mm belt

Have the belts the correct width? Are the grooves in the PS-pulley and outer crankpulley wider than the other grooves?

Following rockauto, 10 and 12 mm are correct belts


The crank- and waterpumppulley are the original ones


-Kjell

[jayb]

Have you thought about going to a dual belt pulley on the alternator?  Two belts will reduce the tendency to squeal.  I think I would go to the 12mm belts also, regardless of what Rock Auto says...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3949b/overview/

[70tp]

Another vote for double belts

[Russ67Scode]

I had to put the dual belt pulley on my 140 amp alternator to stop the belt squealing. 

[TomP]

Belts made in Germany! You have the correct crank and water pump pulleys to just add a dual groove alternator pulley. Those were used on mid 70's pickup trucks. That would solve it with either belt size.
 I had that same problem with a 130 amp alternator, I fixed it by going to a smaller 80 amp alternator. It would squeal the belt and that took rubber off so now the belt is too loose and would need to be adjusted before starting it again. That got tiresome.

[MeanGene]

Yep, the dual belt pickup setup works very well

[1976kjell]

Agree


Its not much work or costs, and it will be more robust also. A dual belt pulley and 12 mm belts will be ordered

If this easy solution wont cure it, what about greasing the belts lightly with silicon dielectric grease when new, in the run-in-period?

#7 in this thread was a bit interesting: https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/threads/alternator-belt-squeal-after-3g-upgrade.497141/

[Joe-JDC]

Don't use dielectric grease, use a bar of hand soap.  The soap will clean the rubber off, and leave a grease free surface to grip the pulleys.  Simply hold the soap gently against the belt/s while the engine is idling, away from the pulley side.    Joe-JDC

[shady]

I also rough-up all the pulley grooves with 80 grit sand paper to de-glaze them.

[Jim Comet]

I put this larger March pulley on my car that has a 1 wire 140 amp alternator. I shift @6700 rpm's and there is no squealing at any time. The alternator charges great and I never have to charge the battery between rounds. I do run open headers so maybe I just can't hear any squealing !!

https://marchperformance.com/corvette-small-block-single-groove-aluminum-alternator-v-belt-pulley-with-cover.html

[Pentroof]

Well, a little update to my scenario, which was referenced. I could not get even a Kevlar belt to last sufficiently, so I ultimately swapped to a dual v belt setup.

Since I also have AC and power steering on that truck, I went a little non-conventional. I ordered a set of triple pulleys for the crank and water pump from CVF. Two rows are dedicated to the alternator. The AC is driven from the 3rd row on the crank and the power steering is driven from the third row on the water pump.

With two belts providing the power to the water pump, I’m comfortable with using that as a drive for the power steering. Power steering doesn’t require high tension and it’s not working that hard most of the time. Works great, and I still have the look I want with the AC compressor mounted down low on the passenger side.

[1976kjell]

A small update:

Work has began. Im not a car electric expert, but some knowledge I have. I assume its ok to remove the old generator regulator.

There is a black/yellow wire (orange/green arrow - same wire) from the regulator to the starter solenoid, its connected to same location as the red wire from the alternator (yellow arrows). Can this be disconnected from the solenoid?

Another wire, the yellow/black has the same route,  this is for the charging warning light, so it will be connected to the alternator


My plan is to loosen the three screws on the regulator, disconnect the wires. The insulate the metalconnectors on the wires and "hide" them in the engine bay

Non of the electric components are dependent on the old regulator?

The last picture is of the waterpump pulley. Does the rows look ok? That pulley, and the crankpulley was sandblasted some years ago. Then painted black, except the rows

These pictures are big, tried to make them more fitted for using here, but its still best to open them in a new tab

[TomP]

Those pictures remind me of school.... looking at things in the microscope in Science class !

You don't need the wire from the regulator to the solenoid but there should also be a thick wire from the regulator that feeds power to the fuse block. The light for the charge indicator can be hooked up. The main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid should be thick, like a #6 ga. I ran a 150 amp MegaFuse wrapped in a piece of heater hose when I did mine.

[63.5xl]

Well, a little update to my scenario, which was referenced. I could not get even a Kevlar belt to last sufficiently, so I ultimately swapped to a dual v belt setup.

Since I also have AC and power steering on that truck, I went a little non-conventional. I ordered a set of triple pulleys for the crank and water pump from CVF. Two rows are dedicated to the alternator. The AC is driven from the 3rd row on the crank and the power steering is driven from the third row on the water pump.

With two belts providing the power to the water pump, I’m comfortable with using that as a drive for the power steering. Power steering doesn’t require high tension and it’s not working that hard most of the time. Works great, and I still have the look I want with the AC compressor mounted down low on the passenger side.

How did the same size pulleys on thr crank and waterpump work out get, any cooling issues?

[cammerfe]

The one time, twenty years ago, that I had a noisy belt problem, I solved it with 'belt dressing'. Comes in a can about the same size as 3-In-One oil. If you get a bit on your fingers, you'll find it becomes seriously tacky in a few seconds. I never did anything else to the belts or pulleys during the time I owned that car---and that was several years.

KS