Author Topic: 289 build (Read 5073 times)

390owner · « **on:** November 12, 2019, 08:42:15 PM »

I bought a 66 mustang with the original 289 engine. Anyway it was full of water and has been for a while. I pulled it then took it apart. I broke it loose after I got the heads off. My question is how can I clean it up so I can rebuild it or should I get another . It is all standard bore and bearings so I hope I can rebuild it.

gdaddy01 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 12, 2019, 09:14:29 PM »

how did it get water in it to start with ? walls pitted ?

390owner · « **Reply #2 on:** November 12, 2019, 09:20:44 PM »

No idea how it got in the engine. The car has been sitting since the early 90s. Someone said maybe it was in a flood but the transmission is full of nice red fluid. There does not seem to be any pitting just light rust that cleaned up with a hone on two cylinders

gdaddy01 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 12, 2019, 09:31:52 PM »

I was just wondering , I would want to know how the water got there before I spent much money on it . jmo

frnkeore · « **Reply #4 on:** November 13, 2019, 01:44:14 AM »

If you have got the crank, cam, lifters and pistons, out of the block. You got it made, already.

Closely inspect the block or, have that done. If everything is sound, bore it .030, get your parts and assemble it. You can up grade it with with crank, rods to 332 or 347 CI, if you want.

Do the same with the heads and if you want a lot more HP, spend the money on them and the cam.

As to the water, it may have blown a head gasket or, check your timing cover, it could have a hole, eaten threw the water passage.

cjshaker · « **Reply #5 on:** November 13, 2019, 07:40:56 AM »

If you can hone the cylinders yourself, or just clean them with an abrasive pad, just to check for obvious cracks, heavy pitting etc, and it looks ok, I would then have it pressure tested before you moved forward. No sense in spending money on a block if it has a major defect. If it checks ok, and the lifter bores are not rusted, then there's no reason it couldn't be used. All the major machined surfaces will have to be gone over anyway, and steel abrading will clean the block up and remove any remaining surface rust.

289 blocks are getting harder to find, like any other older engine. If you can save the block without dumping money into it for major repairs, then I'd certainly go that route. Unless you can buy another block that has already been tested/checked, and you can verify that it's a solid block, then you'd be taking a chance again anyway. Might as well go with what you have until something determines that it's unusable.

machoneman · « **Reply #6 on:** November 13, 2019, 09:54:09 AM »

Quote from: cjshaker on November 13, 2019, 07:40:56 AM

If you can hone the cylinders yourself, or just clean them with an abrasive pad, just to check for obvious cracks, heavy pitting etc, and it looks ok, I would then have it pressure tested before you moved forward. No sense in spending money on a block if it has a major defect. If it checks ok, and the lifter bores are not rusted, then there's no reason it couldn't be used. All the major machined surfaces will have to be gone over anyway, and steel abrading will clean the block up and remove any remaining surface rust.

289 blocks are getting harder to find, like any other older engine. If you can save the block without dumping money into it for major repairs, then I'd certainly go that route. Unless you can buy another block that has already been tested/checked, and you can verify that it's a solid block, then you'd be taking a chance again anyway. Might as well go with what you have until something determines that it's unusable.

True! 289's are getting harder to find but a much later model 302 (5.0L) engine or short block or even a bare block are easy to find and quite cheap. All are bolt-ins and virtually all front dress brackets/bolts/accessories will meet up. Better, the GT-40 3-bar heads from older Explorers are great flowing heads and again a cheap upgrade. As noted, I would check if the current block is good first and proceed from there.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/resources/gt-40-cylinder-head

Joe-JDC · « **Reply #7 on:** November 13, 2019, 10:37:04 AM »

Later 302 HO blocks do not have the boss for bellcrank fitting for manual transmissions. Require pull cable for clutch operation. If an automatic, then all is good. Use block only, to stay 289. Joe-JDC

Falcon67 · « **Reply #8 on:** November 13, 2019, 10:55:12 AM »

Keep it and fix it if possible, you'll have a hard time finding a replacement 289 or even a 302. OR even a 5.0 in some places. It's been a long time since Ford made any push rod small V8s. We live in dry country and it's VERY hard to find a decent core around here. That and when metal scrap is up, cars get recycled. Only one or two yards in 100 miles from here try to keep anything very old. There is 200+ acre yard that I typically check and you will not find a 260, 289, 351C in it anywhere. If they have a pulled decent core 302/5.0 in the sheltered motor pile it's be in the $500 range.

machoneman · « **Reply #9 on:** November 13, 2019, 12:19:37 PM »

Quote from: Joe-JDC on November 13, 2019, 10:37:04 AM

Later 302 HO blocks do not have the boss for bellcrank fitting for manual transmissions. Require pull cable for clutch operation. If an automatic, then all is good. Use block only, to stay 289. Joe-JDC

You're correct Joe but one can buy a bolt-on z-bar ball end pivot and all is good.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Scott+Drake/204/2931/10002/-1?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImrX4hOLn5QIVxR-tBh22fACcEAQYAiABEgLARfD_BwE

Joe-JDC · « **Reply #10 on:** November 13, 2019, 03:05:45 PM »

Thanks, Bob, that is good to know. I haven't had to try to make that conversion in a few years, and am a little behind in updated parts available. Joe-JDC

390owner · « **Reply #11 on:** November 13, 2019, 08:41:24 PM »

Thanks for all the replies. I was thinking about putting the heads in a bucket full of diesel and letting them soak. Is there something that would work better than diesel?

TomP · « **Reply #12 on:** November 14, 2019, 12:07:44 AM »

I redid ten pairs of heads this spring that have been sitting in my shed, many with stuck valves. I simply pulled off all the retainers and any valve that was stuck got a squirt of WD40 and hit straight down with a hammer to get it moving. Had to tap some back and forth while squirting them but all came out without ruining any valves or guides.

machoneman · « **Reply #13 on:** November 14, 2019, 09:25:49 AM »

Quote from: 390owner on November 13, 2019, 08:41:24 PM

Thanks for all the replies. I was thinking about putting the heads in a bucket full of diesel and letting them soak. Is there something that would work better than diesel?

Well, it's likely the cheapest 'solvent' one can buy. Still, I'd use kerosene if available but that would be a tad more expensive. Question is, are the heads coked-up, merely oily or what? Diesel does take more time while a true solvent like kerosene would be quicker. I've also used gasoline, outdoors of course, but merely as a douche with a old paint brush and a small brass-bristled brush.

390owner · « **Reply #14 on:** November 14, 2019, 09:04:28 PM »

mainly rusty from the water but will clean up with a little scrubbing.

frnkeore · « **Reply #15 on:** November 15, 2019, 11:35:16 AM »

I've taken many stuck engines apart, including a 6 cyl tractor, that was setting outside, for 20 years with the vertical exhaust open.

The most highly penetrating solvent, is Xylene, next is Toluene. I mix equal parts Xylene, solvent and ATF. But, that would be expensive, to fill a 5 gal bucket. I would try adding a qt, of Xylene to the diesel.

If you take a brass hammer, to the valves, you'll be able to tell if they are stuck, by the sound. If they make a pop (valve head slapping the seat) you should be able to get them out w/o soaking the head. Just oil the valve stem, push it back and forth and unless it's mushroomed, it will come out w/o damage.

BattlestarGalactic · « **Reply #16 on:** November 15, 2019, 02:19:55 PM »

Is that a 6 bolt bellhousing? When did they change from 5 bolt bellhousing? 65? My wagon was a 5 bolt 289 originally. I sold the complete 70K mile running motor for $100.

frnkeore · « **Reply #17 on:** November 15, 2019, 05:16:38 PM »

Many people say '65 but, my 65 1/2, 2+2, 271 HP had a 5 bolt block.

machoneman · « **Reply #18 on:** November 15, 2019, 06:05:51 PM »

A small factoid: Sunbeam Tiger owners in England needed the 5-bolt blocks (260 or 289) for rebuilds.

frnkeore · « **Reply #19 on:** November 16, 2019, 01:41:53 AM »

Yes, and the 5 bolt is the only one that was used in the 289 Cobra.

I had three 271 HP engines. The one in the 2+2, a 64 Fairlane 500, Sports Coupe, that I bought in July '67, when I came home from VN and one that I bought with dual AFB's and put in the 2+2. The Fairlane pic with the white front wheels, was 3 weeks, after I bought it.

I sold the extra to a Cobra guy.

390owner · « **Reply #20 on:** November 16, 2019, 07:31:36 PM »

I have another question. I pulled a piston and rod this evening and the rod is real tight Should I just soak the piston and rod to loosen up the wrist pin?

machoneman · « **Reply #21 on:** November 16, 2019, 08:12:16 PM »

Sure! Oil, WD-40, ATF or a solvent.

frnkeore · « **Reply #22 on:** November 18, 2019, 02:42:06 AM »

If your open to suggestions, this is what I would do the the 289 and it's 5.155, C/C, rods.

Have the wrist pin bores, in the rods, reamed and honed to SBC specs.

Get a set of Speed Pro H345 pistons, in .020 or .030 over. They have a compression height of 1.548 and they are a standard cast piston and not expensive.

Exchange your crank for a 302 crank and bearings.

That will give you a deck clearance of .003

1.548 Piston CH
1.500 1/2 crank throw
5.155 rod
--------
8.203

8.206 289 Block Deck Height
-8.203
-----------
.003 Deck Clearance

Most 289 heads have ~54.5cc chambers and with a .040 head gasket, that would give you a 9.99 C/R, 58cc=9.56, 60cc=9.34

It will give you a very noticeable power increase. Add a 218 @ .050 duration cam and a small 4 bbl carb and you'll wonder what happened! It will also be just a streetable as a stock engine.

390owner · « **Reply #23 on:** November 18, 2019, 07:24:03 AM »

If I was keeping the mustang that would be a good idea. I am going to restore it and then sell it after I have driven it some then on to the next project. I am wondering now if I should just put the engine back stock with the 2 barrel and the exhaust manifolds or go headers and cam and 4 barrel. I wonder which would sell better?

BattlestarGalactic · « **Reply #24 on:** November 18, 2019, 09:24:31 AM »

I suppose it depends on the crowd you are building it for. Stock or modified?
If the exhaust is in good shape, maybe a simple dual plane 4bbl intake and 600 Holley would be a nice upgrade without a bunch of fuss.

machoneman · « **Reply #25 on:** November 18, 2019, 09:35:01 AM »

Quote from: 390owner on November 18, 2019, 07:24:03 AM

If I was keeping the mustang that would be a good idea. I am going to restore it and then sell it after I have driven it some then on to the next project. I am wondering now if I should just put the engine back stock with the 2 barrel and the exhaust manifolds or go headers and cam and 4 barrel. I wonder which would sell better?

Would be cheaper to use the OEM stock parts, for sure, unless you already have the 4-barrel and intake and/or headers.

390owner · « **Reply #26 on:** November 18, 2019, 07:55:54 PM »

I have a 600 edelbrock and can get a 4 barrel intake. Headers are cheap so I dont know

cammerfe · « **Reply #27 on:** November 18, 2019, 08:39:12 PM »

If you decide to modify, you might include the original parts when you go to sell it.

KS

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Author Topic: 289 build (Read 5073 times)