vintage oil

[allrightmike]

   I have two cases of API service SF oil in cardboard cans that I estimate to be late 80's vintage. One is Shell fire and ice 10W40. The other is Kendall Superb 100 10W40. After break in with proper flat tappet oil would the previously described oil be an acceptable choice? Street 427 comp. 282S single four barrel 10.5 compression.
Mike.

[mikeelikee]

I know this is not an answer, but is it worth the risk to save a few bucks?

[fryedaddy]

i would be afraid that its separated or broke down after35+ years, jmo

[cjshaker]

I asked a similar question a while back. Someone more knowledgeable than me said that the oil doesn't deteriorate, but that the additives can settle in the container, so shaking it up before pouring will help mix it properly. But I was asking about current oils that may be stored for 5-10 years. Oils now are better than they were 30+ years ago, so if it were me, I think I'd go with something newer. The caveat being that you have to make sure the modern oil is compatible with older flat tappet cams. I think I'd use the 30+ year old oil for lawn mowers and such.

[fryedaddy]

i would put it up for another 20-30 years.im sure those old cardboard cans will be collectable.

[DuckRyder]

You might find:

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Gas-Diesel-2012-04-01-The-eBay-Oils-Part-1.pdf

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Gas-Diesel-2012-06-01-The-eBay-Oils-Part-2.pdf

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Gas-Diesel-2012-10-01-The-eBay-Oils-Part-3.pdf

Of interest.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/information/newsletters/

Main index

[shady]

Sell them. I think those cans go back to the '70s.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-Of-3-Vintage-Quart-Oil-Cans-Shell-Fire-And-Ice-Oil-Cans/123859287237?hash=item1cd696bcc5:g:3FEAAOSwyvtdQk2z

[gt350hr]

   There is nothing wrong with "old oil" in a sealed container. I look for older ZINC oil all the time for 1-2 dollars a can/bottle. I am not talking about '50s parafin based oils that caused "sludge" build up. Period oil in period engines worked and will still work. Oil is not like gasoline .
   Randy

[allrightmike]

   Thanks for the feedback guys. My lawn mower will love this stuff! 

[Nightmist66]

I think I'd use the 30+ year old oil for lawn mowers and such.

I would never THINK of wasting my Micron Moly on a stupid lawn mower. 

[427LX]

I have 1 qt. of Kendall GT-1 straight 40W race oil unopened sitting lightly seeping from 1971 in the gold cardboard can.

[My427stang]

As a guy who used to be a flat rate guy and had to deal with old oil in fleet repair and daily driver customer repair, I'd avoid any old oil.  The detergent packages in the old days were miserable, chalky residue, sludge build up, although some of the sacrificial additives may have been at better levels, it wasn't all better.

I remember the gray chalk in every corner of a tear down, chipping away sludge from returns, you name it.  Now 60s/70s oil wasn't 90s oil, but for the price of good oil 30 years later, even though it's ridiculous prices compared to then, it's still cheap money

[Cyclone03]

I’m old enough to remember when Mobile 1 came out in standard card board qts, soaked  through in about 90 days on the shelf. My Dad switched as soon as the rep came to the shop,he was an air cooled VW guy and loved the stuff.
Then for years Mobile 1 coming in steel cans.

Would be interesting to compare the single grade Mobil 1 oil to the large product range of Mobil 1 products now.

[allrightmike]

   People used to say the gray stuff was from running STP in the engine.

[machoneman]

Hey, sell it for the can's label to a collector or use it up in a mower, older daily driver, etc. Or, donate it to a tech school that works on beaters for the experience.  Or, give them to a lawn mower service company as small engines won't know the difference.

[Ford428CJ]

I would rather use a newer oil. Much better than the days of the old per say. You can find high zinc stuff and the additive packages are so much better then the 80’s. JMHO

[Falcon67]

   Thanks for the feedback guys. My lawn mower will love this stuff!

My lawnmower cost $3000, it gets full syn and regular changes.   

[cjshaker]

   Thanks for the feedback guys. My lawn mower will love this stuff!

My lawnmower cost $3000, it gets full syn and regular changes.   

That's cheap! Our lawnmowers at work cost from $16k-$90k. Yes, that's 90 thousand. 
My home mower is almost 60 years old and gets 30w non-detergent. One of these days it just might need rebuilt 

[BattlestarGalactic]

I'm likely familiar with that $90K mower.  Fellow I built those Willys for had a couple.   Big bastards, like 20ft cut with three folding decks.  Can't recall the brands, he bought them used.  With 11 acres to mow, he needed a big mower.

My early 70's vintage Cub Cadets do just fine LOL!!
My 149(14hp) is still all original, untouched, and doesn't burn a drop of the 10w30 Valvoline I run in it(yes, it's detergent).  Doesn't seem to bother it even though I run it a few years before changing it.  My 127(12 hp) got a rebuild last summer because it was plum wore out when I got it.  It runs the same oil with little fuss.

[machoneman]

I’m old enough to remember when Mobile 1 came out in standard card board qts, soaked  through in about 90 days on the shelf. My Dad switched as soon as the rep came to the shop,he was an air cooled VW guy and loved the stuff.
Then for years Mobile 1 coming in steel cans.

Would be interesting to compare the single grade Mobil 1 oil to the large product range of Mobil 1 products now.

When Mobil 1 first came out, even new vehicles at the time dripped out lots of oil right from the start. Older cars with high mileage actually came into our Standard Oil station with hardly any oil in the pan as poor gasket and badly fitting valve covers and pans leaked it out very quickly. Today, better designed engine components and improved sealing adhesives and gasket materials have most car/trucks not leaking any oil at all.

Which reminds me. First Gen 1950's-1970's SBC's leaked oil terribly with even heavy weight dino oil!     

[cjshaker]

I'm likely familiar with that $90K mower.  Fellow I built those Willys for had a couple.   Big bastards, like 20ft cut with three folding decks.  Can't recall the brands, he bought them used.  With 11 acres to mow, he needed a big mower.

My early 70's vintage Cub Cadets do just fine LOL!!
My 149(14hp) is still all original, untouched, and doesn't burn a drop of the 10w30 Valvoline I run in it(yes, it's detergent).  Doesn't seem to bother it even though I run it a few years before changing it.  My 127(12 hp) got a rebuild last summer because it was plum wore out when I got it.  It runs the same oil with little fuss.

Our biggest mower is an 18' Toro with 3 folding articulated decks, a turbo 4 cyl diesel....and cruise control. AC was an option we didn't get    Seeing as how we have a half square mile of acreage, it gets used 8 hrs a day, 5 days a week, just to keep up. Not to mention our 10 other 6' mowers. My old 8N, with a Woods 6' belly mower, has never been rebuilt, so I'm afraid to use a non-detergent. It'd probably knock the sludge off the internals and plug everything up in short order. It's been my only mower for the last 16+ years, with no end in sight. Not bad for a $2500 purchase.

[gt350hr]

      I'm down to my last eight cardboard cans but have three cases of GT1 "green" in the plastic bottles. I have no problem using it despite being 40 years old. I appreciate everyone  else's opinions and concerns/cautions. Kendall saved me when "free" Valvoline failed me way back last century. I do use other "modern" oils where the situation warrants them like roller cam stock engines in my Ranger and wife's Explorer. VR1 20-50 in the enclosed race car hauler's 521.

[Falcon67]

That's cheap! Our lawnmowers at work cost from $16k-$90k. Yes, that's 90 thousand. 
My home mower is almost 60 years old and gets 30w non-detergent. One of these days it just might need rebuilt 

Haha, my low end Gravely Z34.  Yes, some of those get way up there. 

[BattlestarGalactic]

Hmmm, his might be a toro?  It is red and recall it might be turbo charged?  His is open seat(no cab).

My 149 cost me $600.  The 127 was $300.  I rebuilt the motor in the 127 for near nothing.  The shop did all the work, including balancing the crank for free because I'm a nice guy LOL!!  The same shop does my motor work, so you can understand the connection and why I get good service.

[338Raptor]

Back to the original topic...

Old oil has old inferior additives. Oil companies have spent billions of dollars developing better additives, take advantage of it. I would use a modern name brand synthetic and not look back.

[gt350hr]

   Oil usage is by FAR the most debated subject on any forum I have ever seen. Everyone seems to have "their" favorite and engine failure is not rampant. So "to each his own".

[RustyCrankshaft]

   Oil usage is by FAR the most debated subject on any forum I have ever seen. Everyone seems to have "their" favorite and engine failure is not rampant. So "to each his own".

This.

Changing oil on a regular reasonable mileage interval is way more important than anything else. Especially if you are running modern oil. There are always exceptions, and certain types of oil can help if you have special circumstances, but most stock to street-strip level stuff you can run just about anything in and change it and it'll be fine.

[machoneman]

   Oil usage is by FAR the most debated subject on any forum I have ever seen. Everyone seems to have "their" favorite and engine failure is not rampant. So "to each his own".

A close 2nd is what car wax to use....at least on Chevy Forums since they don't know their ass from a hole in the ground when it comes to things mechanical! LOL

[cammerfe]

I'm all for D-A Speed Sport or Castrol R.

KS