351c

[BigBlueIron]

What is the recommended intake gasket, I would assume go without the valley pan never much cared for them. I also want to block the exhaust crossover. Iron intake and open chamber 2v heads. Looking at the Fel-Pro 1040 gasket but am leery of the Printoseal construction seeing so many failures on FE's.

[Falcon67]

I don't have any issues with FelPro print-o-seals on my 351Cs.  Even running alcohol.  BUT - those get changed at end of every season.  I have also used Mr. Gasket Ultra Seal items with good success.  For cast valve covers, the Edelbrock composite gaskets 7569 have been working really well. 

[blykins]

I like the Mr. Gasket paper gaskets.  211 would be the part number for a 2V set.

I do not use the valley pans on anything and you can get creative with covering the crossovers.   A piece of tin works well. 

[Falcon67]

Oops, I left that out.  When running manifolds with crossovers, I use some .010 (or thereabouts - .015 also works) stainless steel shim stock.  I have a couple of pairs with holes that allow the two center 5/16 bolts (or studs) to locate the shim stock over the crossover.  Easy to make.

[BigBlueIron]

Thanks for the replies, Probably got with the Mr. Gasket set. I've got some shim stock around somewhere I planned on using. This is one of those jobs brought in on a wrecker for not running right. They started taking it apart, pulled the intake and then stopped, a year ago.. God knows what I'm in for so I'll probably be asking for more advise.

Figure start with a leak down test and go from there.

[BigBlueIron]

An update for those interested and question for the Mustang guys.

Did a compression check maybe 20psi between the highest and lowest cylinder. Also threw shop air in the cylinders to listen for anything abnormal, little trash in few of the valves allowing them to leak by, few taps with a hammer sealed them up. Otherwise nothing obvious. Seemed to have misplaced my actual leak down tester.

Threw the top end back together with the recommended gaskets and diy block off plates. Intake is a Edelbrock 4v version, not ideal but seems to fit ok. Fiddled with the pertronix 2 previously installed by the owner. Something seemed wrong, not sure it was seated correctly on the locating pin, can't say for sure though as I decided to just take it off and reinstall. Found a couple plug wires with the terminals pulled off, fixed those ohm tested all wires. Set initial @ 12. Fired it up and really sounds pretty good considering the carb, Edelbrock spread bore (forgot to look which model #) looks horrible, lots of soot/carbon choke wired open. Was just trying to get it running to see if it was hitting on all 8. One thing is the lifters sounded horrible after it warmed up a minute. Oil pressure looked good based on the factory gauge.

Car is I believe a 71 Mach 1. They used the original power wire, jumps around 10v to 12v when running. What is the best way to get true 12v to the coil? My thought was to add a relay using the original power wire to trigger the relay. Any reason that won't work? Can I tie the electric choke with it? I'm guessing no, so maybe another relay.

Hope this week to correct the wiring a little and get the radiator and run it praying it doesn't have a head gasket problem. I smelled some antifreeze at the rear of the car but without the rad installed I chalked it up to the residual antifreeze steaming off a little.

[Falcon67]

Open or closed chamber heads?  71 could be either, have to have the casting number located under the center intake ports to ID the heads.  At any rate, I'd be at the 14~16 initial if possible.  Total limit around 34~38 depending.  I don't do curves, I lock mine in. 

The best way to get 12V is to jumper around or replace the resistor wire.  And it should come off the ignition switch connector, and not jump around.  10~12V sounds like a intermittent connection issue.  With the resistor wire, you should see a steady 9V or so to the coil to reduce issues with points.  The S side of the starter relay is for powering the coil with full voltage during cranking.  Been a while, so I may be only close on the details. 

Here - here's the full diagram  https://www.7173mustangs.com/images/71mustang_diagram.pdf

[BigBlueIron]

Correction it is a 72.

Open chamber. Plan is to verify current total and adjust if needed. 12 was just a decent number to start without being way to advanced. I have no idea what it was set on before hand.
Actually took it for quick spin seemed to run ok, bad bog going into the secondaries (edelbrock spreadbore) needs cleaned. And horrible drive line shudder from the clutch, no idea what setup it has but it needs adjusted badly. Never been in anything with that much shudder just trying to move. I suspect it may have further clutch/drive line issues as it has a shake in neutral if you hold the rpms above idle. smooth going down the road though.

No indication of a head gasket problem in the quick drive, came up to temp and held steady just straight water for now. More drive time is needed.

Thanks for the diagram, is it the same as a 72?

[Falcon67]

Same URL except "72" - https://www.7173mustangs.com/images/72mustang_diagram.pdf

OC heads will be in the 14~18 range depending, 36~40 total.  Slow chambers, slower if stock type setup, deck height and such.  Driveline sounds like clutch disk going away and/or hot spots on the flywheel and pressure plate.  Too much shudder can separate the halves of the plate, been there before.