Tips on block prep to paint

[fairlaniac]

I'm having my 427 block (real) hot tanked this week. When I get it back I want to do a soapy wash and rifle brush out all of the passages. I do want to get the block painted as soon as I have it cleaned but I also don't want flash rust to attack my finished cylinder walls and lifter bores. If I apply WD-40 or something to the bores I don't want it to run or get any on my to be painted surfaces. What are your tips and steps to accomplish this?

Thanks,

[blykins]

After the machine work is finished, I will chuck up a bore brush with the ring cut off into a drill motor and go through all the passages.  After the block has been jet washed, I will get it on the stand and pump lacquer thinner through the block with a hand pump and nipple fitting, making sure all the stuff that runs out is clear and clean. 

I will then wipe all the cylinders and lifter bores down with ATF, WD, and lacquer thinner until a white shop towel stays white. 

After the paint dries, I bag the block up until it's assembly time. 

If you're wanting to store the block for a while, I'd wipe on a coat of ATF to the machined surfaces and then wipe it off with lacquer thinner when assembly time comes.  Either way, ATF or WD won't hurt a painted finish.

[Falcon67]

What he said, except I haven't use the thinner deal.  I just wash it with Dawn and as hot water as I can get, hose it off, blow it dry with air then blast it everywhere with WD-40 and blow that around. You do not want to wait to WD-40, etc the block.  As soon as the water is 99% off, start hosing with the WD-40 can and use air to move it around.  After all, "WD" stands for Water Displacement".  Paint after machined surfaces protection is in place.

 Same on the cylinders except backwards LOL - I wipe with thinner or brake clean, then several wipes with WD-40, then finish with ATF until the rags don't pick up any material.  Same on all machined surfaces.  (PS - I use ATF to clean on my machines too - lathe bedways, mill table, drill press column, etc)

As for painting, I wipe down the surfaces to paint using wax and grease remover - gallon can from the pro auto paint store, same thing used to wipe down metal during paint prep.  Mostly fancy lacquer thinner. I mask off what I can which sometimes require a machine surface to be wiped with brake clean to get tape to stick.  The rest I use cardboard to block over spray.  I have a real peeve about seeing over spray on main caps, springs and such.  Chalk it up to OCD.  I prefer Duplicolor Old Ford Blue.  Sticks good if the metal is clean and dry.  Then remove all masking and wipe all machine surfaces with ATF.  Then bag until assembly time.  SBFs fit in a regular Hefty bag, the larger stuff fits in 55 gallon drum liners from Sams.  Or if you have a big shredder at work, "borrow" one of those bags.

At assembly time, any surface getting a gasket then gets the wipe with oil/grease remover, air dry and gasket.  Decks get another cleaning with ATF, several wipes with the thinner, compressed air dry, then gasket - handle by edges only.  No finger prints on the block or head deck, or gasket surface.  Use studs, guide pins, whatever so the parts go right together.

[Heo]

After i have hosed it of with hot water, i spray it with alcohol. Alcohol mix with the water
and makes it evaporate faster. Then i blow it of with compressed air and put it on the stove
and heat it to you can barely touch it,( 50 deg Celsius), or use the torch to really drie it up.
 Then mask and paint
I use PPG epoxy primer my teori is the epoxy seal the pores in the castiron where oil can
"sweat" out and lift the paint. Then i use regular carpaint in desired colour. I also file down
all sharp corners that's getting painted because the paint have a tedency to get thin on
sharp corners and starting to lift there
I got very dry air here so flash rusting from air humidity is no problem after the paint
have dried a couple of day i wipe down the unpainted surfaces with wd 40

[mlplunkett]

You guys got some similar tips on painting aluminum heads to match the ford block?

[Nightmist66]

You guys got some similar tips on painting aluminum heads to match the ford block?

I wanted a factory style look with my aluminum heads, so I ground the Edelbrock junk off the ends......



I made double sure the heads were clean and after they were masked off, I wiped them down with acetone on a lint-free rag. Let them dry a few minutes and hit them with paint. I didn't bother with primer on the heads, since they are aluminum. I did prime the oil pan and block first, though.

[wowens]

 "I didn't bother with primer on the heads, since they are aluminum. I did prime the oil pan and block first, though."

Clean Aluminum oxidizes almost instantly when exposed to air, it needs a good etching primer before paint.

[Richard F]

From doing the bodywork on my Falcon, the next time I paint an engine I will use etching primer on the cast iron before I paint.  I don't paint alumium heads and such typically but if I decide to I will have to research prep for that.

[Nightmist66]

Clean Aluminum oxidizes almost instantly when exposed to air, it needs a good etching primer before paint.

I'm still wet behind the ears, but in my experience, I haven't had any ill effects of not using an etching primer when painting aluminum parts. The junk I paint will never see winter or the elements. But if they did, I would prolly go the extra step and use that primer or powdercoat....

[67428GT500]

I wanted to paint the Edelbrocks on the motor going back in my Shelby but every set of heads I have seen painted peel. I almost sent them to Joe Stbblefield polishing and had them show polished.
Let me know how the paint holds up. I have a sneaky suspicion it's not going to stay on the exhaust outlets.
                                                                                                               -Keith

[blykins]

The cast portion of an aluminum head will hold the paint well.  The machined surfaces will not and that's what you have to watch out for.   I have always used a primer so that it will stick, otherwise, it will flake off in sheets.

[Nightmist66]

Keith, the engine was just run for about half an hour and up to 200 degrees for a test run on the break-in stand. I will be checking over a few things and running it again before going into the car, but right now and like last time, the paint is holding up well on the exhaust ports. Time will tell when it's in the car. Timing was checked immediately to avoid too much heat. I used Valspar tractor and implement Ford blue.