Author Topic: racing my 66 Comet  (Read 12540 times)

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gt350hr

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Re: guess my 1/8 mile ET?updated w/ 1/4 mile stats
« Reply #30 on: August 12, 2019, 03:04:38 PM »
  Sometimes the 1-2 can be shorter than the 2-3 and see a difference. I short shift mine by 500 rpm on the 1-2 and it likes it. More runs will let you know what it likes best. Great numbers , more to come for sure.
    Randy

CaptCobrajet

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Re: guess my 1/8 mile ET?updated w/ 1/4 mile stats
« Reply #31 on: August 14, 2019, 08:04:58 AM »
Yes, the 1-2 should be about where peak power is on the dyno sheet.  The 2-3 about 500 past peak.......but, as BSG said, you don't have to shift it that high all the time.  My vote is to get your 29" tires back, put a 5.00 gear in it, and then short shift it for some 6.40s and 10.30s..........just a thought.:)

That little baby camshaft and SPP heads seem to do pretty good in that combo.  I think you did have bad gas when you can it at Jay's, because it is going to end up going faster than the dyno numbers would have indicated at your weight, with a C6 trans.  There is .25 in the bank if you ever decide to put a C4 in there down the road.
« Last Edit: August 14, 2019, 08:12:09 AM by CaptCobrajet »
Blair Patrick

6667fan

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Re: guess my 1/8 mile ET?updated w/ 1/4 mile stats
« Reply #32 on: August 18, 2019, 07:17:37 PM »
That’s awesome Jim. You must be thrilled. Congrats on getting in the 10s with it.

JB
JB


67 Fairlane 500
482 cid 636/619.
Tunnel Wedge, Survival EMC CNC heads, Lykins Custom Hydraulic Roller, Ram adjustable clutch, Jerico 4-spd, Strange third member with Detroit Locker, 35 spline axles, 4.86
10.68@125.71 1.56 60’

Jim Comet

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Re: switching from 850 to 1100 cfm carb.
« Reply #33 on: June 25, 2021, 09:00:00 PM »
So after some discussion with Blair, he sent me a custom built 4150 for me to try when I get out on the weekend of the 4th. I either need to slow to 11.0 or speed up to the 10.50 class. The car with my plain Jane 850 dbl pumper has been running consistent 10.7*'s 1/4 mile ET's. He also sent 2 of his custom spacers to try (1" and 2"). The car has been 60 footing very consistently at 1.47 to 1.48 no matter what the timing was changed to (28 to 31deg) trying to slow the car. I will post how the new 1100 cfm carb runs compared to my previous setup. Jim

Jim Comet

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Re: switching from 850 to 1100 cfm carb.
« Reply #34 on: September 29, 2021, 08:27:54 PM »
Hey all, this post maybe should be how not to tune a car. This spring, Blair was nice enough to send me a custom 1100 cfm carb to test (vs my basic 850 dbl pumper) to see if it would get me closer to my 10.50 target ET. This test was at BIR on a very hot 4th of July. It was so hot they actually shut down racing for the first time ever due to hot track temps. They put water on it to cool it and later in the day got it dry and resumed racing. Due to the heat, Blair suggested I dial in a little more timing. Previous runs had my trap speeds from 122-123mph. With the 1100cfm and more timing I was now running 124-125mph trap speeds. Unfortunately my 60ft times were now in the low 1.50s instead of the 1.45-1.47 I had been running. I chalked it up to the extreme heat at the time. I made 10 passes with the 1100 carb. during those passes I tried both jetting and suspension changes to try and improve my times, but they made no difference. I wanted to verify if it was the carb or the timing that improved my trap speed so after the 10 passes with the 1100, without making any other changes, I put my old 850 on and the car ran the exact same times and trap speeds as it had with the 1100 carb. Based on that I decided to send the carb back to Blair and have since been focused on slowing the car to run the 11.0 index. I even have run a 780 vacuum secondary carb. With the secondary's locked out the car runs 11.60's on 2 barrels. I drilled some holes in my vacuum diaphragm rod and can control how far the secondary's open by moving a hair pin to higher or lower holes. This seemed to work pretty well, although this winter I think I may install a changeable restrictor plate setup to control my ET's. I like the thought of that better as the carb will be wide open and running fully on the mains and not stuck running off the transition circuits on the rear 2 barrels. Then I can just run my 850 dbl pumper again and change restrictor plates as needed to dial the car in. One thing for sure is the motor likes more timing than we initially thought. Blair had us run 32 degrees (locked out dist) for my dyno test at Jay's where the motor made 600hp. I think with the switch from the Harland Sharp rockers to the T&D's and running more timing the motor may be making more power as I am now consistently running trap speeds of 125-127mph. My new problem now is, even with new slicks, I cannot get my 60ft times back under 1.50. Sorry for the long rambling post. I love my BP motor. It is running stronger all the time. Jim 
« Last Edit: September 30, 2021, 06:47:14 AM by Jim Comet »

Jim Comet

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Re: switching from 850 to 1100 cfm carb.
« Reply #35 on: February 23, 2022, 09:31:06 PM »
Well for this 2022 season I have decided to make a couple of changes. First is I am going to try some Hooker header collectors. The collectors I had been running both on Jays dyno and at the track were merge collectors and had a 2 1/8 - 2 1/4 choke. When I revved the car up before bolting the collectors on, it shot the collectors across my shop. With this in mind I am going to try a conventional Hooker 2" to 3 1/2 collector and see if that helps. My uneducated guess says that back pressure may have been causing my wonky AFR readings above 6500rpms on Jays dyno. I also have a 1050 annular carb to try also. Another thing I found is I put in 1 1/2" longer rear shackles for more tire clearance. I did that at the same time my 60ft times slowed to 1.5s. I did some checking and found when I lowered the rear of the spring I lost 2 degrees of pinion down angle. I have corrected that for this year also. If I was smart I would just slow the car down and run 11.0s, but the motor head in me keeps searching for more speed. I will post an update in may after a couple of test and tunes. Jim

Stangman

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Re: racing my 66 Comet
« Reply #36 on: February 23, 2022, 09:49:49 PM »
 Its funny how it just dont stop. I said I would take the car to the track one time just to see what it does. The
pnly thing that did was wake up the racing bug in me. Keep plugging away Jim

MrRupp

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Re: racing my 66 Comet
« Reply #37 on: February 24, 2022, 03:18:13 PM »
I feel your pain, the same thing is happening with our little foxbody. Five years ago, my buddy called me up, and said the kids are grown up let's go racing. He had a 410 sitting in the shop doing nothing, and I had a car that needed a motor. So we agreed as long as we can get into the 12s we would be happy ( NOT ). Five years later were running 11.5, and were still looking for more. It's just the need for speed in all of us.
Clint

6667fan

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Re: racing my 66 Comet
« Reply #38 on: March 02, 2022, 08:23:55 AM »
Jim, what degrees did you end up with after the shackle change and will you have to change tire size now?

Good Luck!
JB


67 Fairlane 500
482 cid 636/619.
Tunnel Wedge, Survival EMC CNC heads, Lykins Custom Hydraulic Roller, Ram adjustable clutch, Jerico 4-spd, Strange third member with Detroit Locker, 35 spline axles, 4.86
10.68@125.71 1.56 60’

Jim Comet

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Re: racing my 66 Comet
« Reply #39 on: March 03, 2022, 08:29:24 AM »
I had been running 5 deg pinion angle before I put in the longer shackles. My guess is after the new shackles were installed I had about 3 degrees. I am still waiting for my rear housing to get back to me to set up the rear. I am going to shoot for 4-5 deg of pinion angle. I am running custom made 2 inch wide springs that I have moved as far in as possible for tire clearance. I am running 29x9 Hoosier slicks currently but may try some pro bracket radials when its time to replace my slicks. My original tire clearance issue with the 29.5x9 slicks was at the back of the wheel opening and not side clearance.

6667fan

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Re: racing my 66 Comet
« Reply #40 on: March 04, 2022, 09:31:17 AM »
Jim, I have been following the back brace thread. Has a leaf spring relocation kit been considered?
It sure makes things easier under there and paves the way for bigger rubber. ( unless you are limited to 9” tire).
Thanks for sharing the driveline angle info.
JB


67 Fairlane 500
482 cid 636/619.
Tunnel Wedge, Survival EMC CNC heads, Lykins Custom Hydraulic Roller, Ram adjustable clutch, Jerico 4-spd, Strange third member with Detroit Locker, 35 spline axles, 4.86
10.68@125.71 1.56 60’

Jim Comet

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Re: racing my 66 Comet
« Reply #41 on: March 04, 2022, 09:22:21 PM »
I believe with what I am doing I could fit a 28x10 Hoosier slick if I want. I think any larger would require a mini tub regardless of where the springs are. I'll post some picks when the rear is back in place and all is assembled and resting on the slicks. Jim

6667fan

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Re: racing my 66 Comet
« Reply #42 on: March 05, 2022, 06:55:03 PM »
Jim, a 10.5 x 29 will fit with some mods and the relocator kit. The snubber has to go and the inner wheel well lip must be sectioned and folded back. The rim pictured is 15 x 10 with a 6.5” BS. No mini tubbing. This is on a ‘67 Fairlane.

https://i.postimg.cc/ryvGpzW0/9-DA19950-320-A-49-B4-8-C4-A-080-A4599-CD71.jpg


« Last Edit: March 29, 2022, 07:51:31 AM by 6667fan »
JB


67 Fairlane 500
482 cid 636/619.
Tunnel Wedge, Survival EMC CNC heads, Lykins Custom Hydraulic Roller, Ram adjustable clutch, Jerico 4-spd, Strange third member with Detroit Locker, 35 spline axles, 4.86
10.68@125.71 1.56 60’

Jim Comet

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Re: racing my 66 Comet
« Reply #43 on: August 07, 2022, 09:12:48 PM »
Saturday I went to a test day with the Comet. I made 4 passes with my new 1050 carb and Hooker collectors with 18"extensions. The car ran 10.76's at 125 mph on a 88 super humid day I was happy. Wanting to do some testing, I put on my 780cfm vacuum secondary carb untouched, which I had used last year and ran high 10.70's  and the car now ran pig rich 10.0 afr (84 primary w/power valve/90 secondary no power valve) 11.76's. I then dropped the jetting down 6 steps from last years setting (78 primary w/power valve and 84 secondary w/plugged power valve) and the afr went to 11.0 but still ran the same 11.6 et. We then got rained out. while I understand 12.5-13.0 is the desired afr, Could that really make a one second difference? when I blow air past the secondary vacuum port the secondary opens. What are your thoughts. Jim

jayb

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Re: racing my 66 Comet
« Reply #44 on: August 08, 2022, 09:29:10 PM »
The wrong A/F can certainly make a huge difference, and some engines will be more sensitive to it than others.  But a whole second is a lot.  I'm not sure that A/F alone would account for that...
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC