Author Topic: '62 Galaxie Progress Report (Read 30929 times)

mbrunson427 · « **on:** May 28, 2019, 01:07:59 PM »

It's been a while since I've posted anything about this car, I've been gaining some traction on it lately, so here's an update.

As a reminder, here's how the car looked when I got it out of the storage barn last spring. Car has been owned by my family since either '93 or '94 and parked in this barn about a week after my uncle bought it. I was 5 at the time, but everyone says the car smoked like a freight train. I didn't even try to start it, just yanked the engine out. Car has original paint and original interior, 100% bone stock with the exception of an 8-track player, some speakers hanging under the dash, and a couple gauges.

I've done quite a bit of cleaning on it, but this weekend is the first time that the car has been out in the sun since I got the paint all buffed out and cleaned up.

Gear Vendor Toploader showed up about a month ago. This install isn't as straightforward as I wished it was. I have a picture below of the mounting ears with the mount bracket held up to it, the ears are the wrong width. I'll be playing with the mount to get that right. The shifter also wasn't in the right position, David Kee already fixed that though. I found a push/pull switch from an MG that I modified to fit a Ford cable pull overdrive handle to, when pulled it should turn the OD unit on.

The middle gauge here was my Grandpa's. He had it installed in his '63 Galaxie, and then later installed in his '67 Mustang. The gauge was laying in a random box of old parts, I decided to incorporate it into the car. Found matching oil pressure, water temp, and tach (the tach is being re-worked by Williamson's Instruments to allow use of the new Pertonix Ignitor III ignition). The gauge panel I'm going to try to engine turn to match the dash, found some cratex engine turning sticks for the mill so we'll see how that goes.

Parts have started to accumulate in the basement, here's a couple of the more fun things. I think I've decided on installing the 390 badges on the side of the car over the 428 ones (it will be a stroked 428). I don't completely like how the red clashes with the paint, but that is what it came with...

Heo · « **Reply #1 on:** May 28, 2019, 01:27:07 PM »

Looking good

RustyCrankshaft · « **Reply #2 on:** May 28, 2019, 05:30:04 PM »

That care really cleaned up nicely! Cool gauges too.

There are a couple options for converting old tachs now as well besides sending them out (although Williamson's does a fine job). You can get a a pre-built driver board from Tom at Anthony's (tom@anthony-labs.com). I've used about a dozen boards from him at this point I think. They are small enough to mount inside a dash cup mount or you can put them inside an old Sun or SW tach drive module.

There's a guy in Washington that can repair the meter movements for very reasonable as well, Jerry catclock@msn.com.

You aren't restoring the 8 track are you?

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 28, 2019, 09:58:59 PM »

Quote from: Heo on May 28, 2019, 01:27:07 PM

Looking good

Thank you!

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #4 on:** May 28, 2019, 10:17:13 PM »

Quote from: RustyCrankshaft on May 28, 2019, 05:30:04 PM

That care really cleaned up nicely! Cool gauges too.

There are a couple options for converting old tachs now as well besides sending them out (although Williamson's does a fine job). You can get a a pre-built driver board from Tom at Anthony's (tom@anthony-labs.com). I've used about a dozen boards from him at this point I think. They are small enough to mount inside a dash cup mount or you can put them inside an old Sun or SW tach drive module.

There's a guy in Washington that can repair the meter movements for very reasonable as well, Jerry catclock@msn.com.

You aren't restoring the 8 track are you?

Thank you!

I did a bit of poking around online to try and figure the tach out. After searching I decided to call Williamson’s, he talked to me for about 5 minutes and I ended up saying OK how about you do it.

Funny you ask about the 8 track. My dad has a fascination with them. He has collected some Philco units and we’ve kicked around maybe installing one. We’ll see

drdano · « **Reply #5 on:** June 05, 2019, 05:04:49 PM »

Dang thats a great looking '62, that color is just great. Did you end up repainting the engine compartment, or is that just how nice it came out cleaning it? The underside of my hood is quite awful, haven't figured out how to approach even trying to clean it yet.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 05, 2019, 11:15:15 PM »

Quote from: drdano on June 05, 2019, 05:04:49 PM

Dang thats a great looking '62, that color is just great. Did you end up repainting the engine compartment, or is that just how nice it came out cleaning it? The underside of my hood is quite awful, haven't figured out how to approach even trying to clean it yet.

Thank you! I haven't done much other than spray some simple green on the engine compartment so far. I'm going to give it my best shot just cleaning it, I'll see how it comes out and decide whether or not I need to paint it all up. Trying my best to keep the car original and untouched. Sometimes I think the "survivor" look is cooler than the show car built-like-a-model look.

RustyCrankshaft · « **Reply #7 on:** June 06, 2019, 06:28:53 PM »

Quote from: mbrunson427 on June 05, 2019, 11:15:15 PM

Quote from: drdano on June 05, 2019, 05:04:49 PM
Dang thats a great looking '62, that color is just great. Did you end up repainting the engine compartment, or is that just how nice it came out cleaning it? The underside of my hood is quite awful, haven't figured out how to approach even trying to clean it yet.

Thank you! I haven't done much other than spray some simple green on the engine compartment so far. I'm going to give it my best shot just cleaning it, I'll see how it comes out and decide whether or not I need to paint it all up. Trying my best to keep the car original and untouched. Sometimes I think the "survivor" look is cooler than the show car built-like-a-model look.

I agree. Your car from the pictures looks like it is in very good shape and there is something very cool about something that's 30-40-50-60+ years old that hasn't been restored and still looks and drives nice.

Nothing against show cars, and sometimes stuff needs to be restored - but some stuff I think should be left as is and just driven!

e philpott · « **Reply #8 on:** June 06, 2019, 11:02:02 PM »

Beautiful and 62 is my favorite year Galaxy! A set Cragar’s and call it done.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #9 on:** July 10, 2019, 04:14:10 PM »

I was pretty excited to receive this in the mail Monday. Williamson's Instruments did the whole thing. I picked the style and rpm range of gauge I wanted and they made it happen. The transmitter will sit on the fender apron, it wasn't necessary but it sort of fills a blank space on the drivers side apron.

RustyCrankshaft · « **Reply #10 on:** July 10, 2019, 05:50:23 PM »

They do nice work and your gauges are no exception, they turned out great!

I have a couple of those SW Tach's as well. Also have a similar unit from Autometer but can't find a part number on it.

machoneman · « **Reply #11 on:** July 10, 2019, 07:53:47 PM »

The body looks great! After rubbing on the engine compartment, I'd add a spray job in semi-gloss black before long.

BruceS · « **Reply #12 on:** July 11, 2019, 08:33:34 AM »

What specifically did the instrument Co. do for your SW tach? And how does the transmitter connect to the engine and tach?

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #13 on:** July 11, 2019, 09:01:17 AM »

Quote from: BruceS on July 11, 2019, 08:33:34 AM

What specifically did the instrument Co. do for your SW tach? And how does the transmitter connect to the engine and tach?

They are able to screen print the lenses, so they can take a gauge body and update the face to look brand new. I believe this one started life as a 6000 rpm SW tach and he turned it into an 8000rpm tach for me and put the green line graphic on it.

As far as the internals go....here is my understanding, although RustyCrankshaft (sorry I don't know your name) will have a much better idea. An original SW or Sun tach don't like the new style ignition systems very much. Originally they were set up to get a signal from a set of points which create a square wave signal. The new stuff creates a peak wave. He installs a modern driver board that can accept the signal.

In my case, the modern driver board is now housed inside the red transmitter module. The tach is a dummy and just runs the needle. He could have installed the board inside the tach body as well, but I liked the idea of having the old school transmitter module. As far as wiring goes, I haven't got that far yet. The coil signal should just go to the red transmitter module on the fender apron. The positive and negative on the transmitter and gauge I haven't figured yet. Need to power it and ground it somewhere??

BruceS · « **Reply #14 on:** July 11, 2019, 09:13:12 AM »

I think for the the tach you're going to need a power, ground, and a signal wire from the transmitter. Also a power and ground for the light if you decide to light it. Transmitter will need a wire from the coil, power, and ground. Sound about right?

turbohunter · « **Reply #15 on:** July 11, 2019, 09:21:33 AM »

I didn’t know such a thing existed. No wires through the fire wall?
What will they think of next.

Thanks for that.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #16 on:** July 11, 2019, 05:09:09 PM »

I got curious about this wiring question so I gave Wiliamson's a call.... the transmitter module will be wired to the coil (-) post like normal, I'll wire the tach (+) and (-) posts to the transmitter (+) and (-) terminals. No need to power anything! The tach will be powered through inductance.

If I would have opted for all the guts to be inside the tach, it would only need to wire to the (-) side of the coil, nothing else. Pretty slick.

RustyCrankshaft · « **Reply #17 on:** July 11, 2019, 05:51:17 PM »

There are several options, depending on who you go with for the conversion.

The option this tach looks like it got was a cosmetic rebuild and the transmitter converted to electronic. In this case the original meter movement is still used. You can eliminate the old transmitter box completely and just have the new tach driver board installed inside the tach can. You can also have the meter movement replaced with modern stuff like an air core style or stepper motor which is more accurate, but will then require more wiring.

Normally if I get an old tach like that and the meter movement is good I'll just get a tach driver board and convert it myself. But if the movement is bad or the face is in bad shape I'll send it to someone and have them put an modern movement in them. In anything that isn't a true race or strip/street application I like to keep it as period correct as is practical and have done a lot of old SW and Autometer tach like this.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #18 on:** August 15, 2019, 11:28:25 AM »

I got the idea to match the gauge panel to the the factory dash pattern. This Saturday I gave it a whirl, here's how it turned out.

Those sticks are made by Cratex. Specialty made abrasives for engine turning. I'd highly suggest them. Made it look like I actually know what I'm doing.

The process was completely time consuming, took me about 5 hours to get done I believe. Because of the pattern, every move I had to make both an X and Y shift, couldn't just lock it in one axis and do a whole row (I guess I could have rotated the mill head, but that would have required some pretty shifty math $:-\$ ).

BattlestarGalactic · « **Reply #19 on:** August 15, 2019, 12:07:05 PM »

WOW!!! Nice work.

Heo · « **Reply #20 on:** August 15, 2019, 01:22:08 PM »

Quote from: BattlestarGalactic on August 15, 2019, 12:07:05 PM

WOW!!! Nice work.

What he said

wcbrowning · « **Reply #21 on:** August 15, 2019, 01:44:52 PM »

That is FANTASTIC! Excellent!

Quote from: mbrunson427 on August 15, 2019, 11:28:25 AM

I got the idea to match the gauge panel to the the factory dash pattern. This Saturday I gave it a whirl, here's how it turned out.

Those sticks are made by Cratex. Specialty made abrasives for engine turning. I'd highly suggest them. Made it look like I actually know what I'm doing.

The process was completely time consuming, took me about 5 hours to get done I believe. Because of the pattern, every move I had to make both an X and Y shift, couldn't just lock it in one axis and do a whole row (I guess I could have rotated the mill head, but that would have required some pretty shifty math $:-\$ ).

RustyCrankshaft · « **Reply #22 on:** August 15, 2019, 05:01:44 PM »

That is NICE. You'd never know it wasn't a factory option!

country63sedan · « **Reply #23 on:** August 15, 2019, 07:49:15 PM »

Man that's nice. Makes my attempts with a wooden dowel, lapping compound and a drill press look awfully primitive.

BruceS · « **Reply #24 on:** August 16, 2019, 08:43:05 AM »

Love those old gauges too, including the Motor Minder. It's a vacuum gauge correct?

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #25 on:** August 16, 2019, 04:43:27 PM »

Thank you guys for the kind words.

BruceS, yes the motor minder is a vacuum gauge.

turbohunter · « **Reply #26 on:** August 16, 2019, 04:47:05 PM »

I’m still going back over those pics a day later.
Just beautiful.

WConley · « **Reply #27 on:** August 16, 2019, 06:30:19 PM »

That is super nice! I'm tempted to write a little program for the CNC to knock out some engine turned surfaces. It would do something like that in a matter of minutes! I love that look

Hmmm

Now I just need to get a hold of those sticks...

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #28 on:** August 19, 2019, 08:27:23 AM »

Quote from: WConley on August 16, 2019, 06:30:19 PM

That is super nice! I'm tempted to write a little program for the CNC to knock out some engine turned surfaces. It would do something like that in a matter of minutes! I love that look

Hmmm Now I just need to get a hold of those sticks...

I thought about that, the only problem I see is that the sticks wear away and I was using a file to straighten up the tip of it probably every 10 dots.

Here's where I got them. Q046
https://www.cratex.com/Products/Rubber-Abrasives/Blocks-and-Sticks/Round-Sticks

WConley · « **Reply #29 on:** August 19, 2019, 10:17:40 AM »

Interesting - Thanks for that!

I was thinking of making up a set of tools with spring loaded shanks, maybe along these lines:

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #30 on:** August 19, 2019, 03:24:28 PM »

Quote from: WConley on August 19, 2019, 10:17:40 AM

Interesting - Thanks for that!
I was thinking of making up a set of tools with spring loaded shanks, maybe along these lines:

That would be neat! I think that whole gauge panel took about a 1/4" out of the stick. Much less than I had expected quite honestly. I bought (3) 6" sticks not knowing how fast they would go away.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #31 on:** January 06, 2020, 09:53:49 AM »

This weekend we pulled the '60 Starliner out of the shop and took it down to the media blaster. After that it will go to a metal shop and I'm expecting it'll be there for over a year. Getting the Starliner out allowed me to pull my '62 in and get cranking on it. I have a few home projects that need to get done first, but I'm hoping within the next couple months I can make a good step forward on it.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #32 on:** January 28, 2020, 10:40:17 PM »

The engine is coming together in Tennessee. 428CJ block, 4.25" crank. Will receive a set of Blair's "EMC" cnc ported C4AE-G heads and an Edelbrock RPM intake. Should be plenty of engine to pull the car around.

I think this means I better get going on the car. Between the '62, the Starliner, selling a '66 Fairlane, trying to get the Cougar back on the road, and a couple of my buddies 80's dirt bikes.......the winter/spring is getting pretty busy

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #33 on:** February 17, 2020, 10:25:44 AM »

This weekend we messed with the steering column. The Borgeson power steering box requires that the column be shortened roughly 2-3/4" (2.675" to be exact). I was in a hurry and didn't get a picture of it all put back together. This column isn't the easiest to mount a gauge to, so I'm going to have the neighbor machine an aluminum piece that will fit around the multiple tubes and will bolt together in two halves around the column. I used the rear speaker grille to test out some interior spray paint I had mixed, looks like the guy did a pretty solid job!

My427stang · « **Reply #34 on:** February 17, 2020, 12:29:04 PM »

Looks great!

drdano · « **Reply #35 on:** February 19, 2020, 01:02:56 PM »

Quote from: mbrunson427 on February 17, 2020, 10:25:44 AM

Is the purpose of this steering box so you can do away with the power steering ram cylinder?

67428GT500 · « **Reply #36 on:** February 19, 2020, 02:01:52 PM »

Yes. I would love to do away with the wonky ram. However, it can't be used on FE Mustangs with headers. Of course, I wouldn't cut up the steering column on my Shelby.
The older Bendix units leave a lot to be desired being they float all over the place.
-Keith

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #37 on:** February 19, 2020, 02:12:00 PM »

I don't believe on the Mustang units that cutting the steering shaft is a requirement, but it does look like cutting back the column tube is. Agreed, wouldn't do that to a Shelby car.

67428GT500 · « **Reply #38 on:** February 19, 2020, 02:30:38 PM »

You may be right on the Mustang. They seem to work great on the small block cars except for certain header combinations.

-Keith

66FAIRLANE · « **Reply #39 on:** February 19, 2020, 07:19:21 PM »

Great work on the gauge panel. I had a friend do this when I was apprentice. From memory he just used wooden dowels & maybe some abrasive paste. I think it turned out pretty good but it was over 35 years ago...…...

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #40 on:** February 20, 2020, 03:36:55 PM »

Quote from: 66FAIRLANE on February 19, 2020, 07:19:21 PM

Great work on the gauge panel. I had a friend do this when I was apprentice. From memory he just used wooden dowels & maybe some abrasive paste. I think it turned out pretty good but it was over 35 years ago...…...

Thank you! I have had a couple '62 guys reach out to me about making them one, but with the time involved, I don't think it's worth it to be making/selling them. The only way it would ever be worth it is a CNC operation as Bill described above.

67428GT500 · « **Reply #41 on:** February 23, 2020, 07:56:36 PM »

I need someone that can do the machine turning on a pistol barrel for me. That looks outstanding!
-Keith

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #42 on:** March 22, 2020, 04:33:37 PM »

I've got two more lower control arm bolts and the Galaxie will be as far pulled apart as I plan to take it. Going to spend my week scrubbing parts and painting the suspension components now.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #43 on:** March 24, 2020, 05:56:21 PM »

Got mail today! SMS Auto Fabrics did them. For those of you waiting on anything from them...I promise they do deliver eventually, and the quality is top notch! I didn't need the back seat done, only front. I compared them and the set they made is a dead match to the rear.

Gregwill16 · « **Reply #44 on:** March 24, 2020, 08:20:13 PM »

Looking good!
Good to hear on SMS, I'm am most likely going to have to go through them for some 63 Custom 300 upholstery that I can't seem to find elsewhere.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #45 on:** March 25, 2020, 08:59:03 AM »

Quote from: Gregwill16 on March 24, 2020, 08:20:13 PM

Looking good!
Good to hear on SMS, I'm am most likely going to have to go through them for some 63 Custom 300 upholstery that I can't seem to find elsewhere.

I was told by a Galaxie restorer to make the order from them when you start restoring your car and maybe they'll be there by the time you're finishing. These ones took close to a year. The door panels, seat covers, and head liner for our '60 Starliner have been ordered for 1-1/2 years now.

Gregwill16 · « **Reply #46 on:** March 25, 2020, 11:34:32 AM »

Ahhh jeez. Thanks for the info!

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #47 on:** March 26, 2020, 09:15:00 AM »

Quote from: Gregwill16 on March 25, 2020, 11:34:32 AM

Ahhh jeez. Thanks for the info!

Greg, I sent you a message about SMS, they are having a sale that you may want to take advantage of.

Gregwill16 · « **Reply #48 on:** March 26, 2020, 01:31:28 PM »

Yes thank you I did receive that email this morning. I guess that will force me to go ahead and make a decision. Thanks!

BruceS · « **Reply #49 on:** March 27, 2020, 08:30:17 AM »

Mike, I looked on the SMS website and FB page and didn't see any reference to a sale.

They sent me samples some time back and I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on seat matl. and door panels. They even identified the seat cloth on my '63 fastback as being from the '64 model year. This was not too surprising as my car was built in the last few weeks of '63 production. Their stuff is definitely first-rate.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #50 on:** March 27, 2020, 08:32:27 AM »

Bruce, try this link.

https://mailchi.mp/6fdc6133da64/end-of-summer-sale-15-off-all-headliners-3491437?e=35edeafe7c

BruceS · « **Reply #51 on:** March 27, 2020, 08:37:14 AM »

Got it Mike, thanks.

turbohunter · « **Reply #52 on:** March 27, 2020, 09:14:16 AM »

Yes Mike, my thanks also.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #53 on:** April 12, 2020, 08:25:23 PM »

Well guys, I think I'm finally at the "bolt things back on" phase.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #54 on:** May 29, 2020, 12:38:53 PM »

Another little side project. The factory steering column in a '62 500 car has no good mounting method for a tach. I've seen a few guys drill holes in the top of the dash (which I didn't want to do) and I've seen some other hold them on with a big magnet to the top of the dash. We drew up a sketch that captures all of the random tubes in a two piece bracket, neighbor Joe machined it. I'll end up painting the column and bracket so they all match and hopefully the bracket hides.

Up next is a restoration of the original steering wheel. It was in the trunk with the car. Has a couple cracks. I have the epoxy for it, just need to gain momentum again.

Bolted to Floor · « **Reply #55 on:** May 30, 2020, 10:43:28 PM »

Looks great.

machoneman · « **Reply #56 on:** June 04, 2020, 03:26:14 PM »

Nice bracket! You can make me a few next!

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #57 on:** June 05, 2020, 09:11:36 AM »

Quote from: machoneman on June 04, 2020, 03:26:14 PM

Nice bracket! You can make me a few next!

Thanks! I am planning on having Joe make a batch of these brackets. I want to make sure that it fits right first. We made a version 2.0 because this one was sitting too close the the air pull knob, I'm going to try the new one out tonight.

One thing I'm apprehensive about is we made this bracket to work with my Stewart Warner tach mount and I'm not sure how other tach mounts compare. I want to do a little R&D on other tachs first and see if I can't make the bracket fairly universal.

Also..... I tried this on our column shift column, won't work. It has to sit so far down on the column that it runs the tach right into the dash. I think it would probably work for an auto car but we don't have any of those columns in the barn.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #58 on:** June 22, 2020, 10:27:20 AM »

Well, the only thing holding me back now from getting the interior back together is the fuel lines....odd statement right? But the body has to come off the frame to get the fuel lines in. I've been dreading doing this but it needs to be done. I bought (2) 3/8" lines and I'm going to run them in parallel. My thought is if I ever switch over to Sniper fuel injection I can run one as supply and the other return. For right now I'll Y them together and have the equivalent of a 1/2" line.

Pulled the instrument cluster apart so I could work on the heater trim panel for the overdrive switch. Repainted everything while it was apart, took the opportunity to install new bulbs as well.

Floor is all lined with sound deadener now. The material came from Stock Interiors, I didn't like how dynamat had their branding stamped on the material. This stuff seems a little more "normal".
Was real happy with how the material laid down. Here's where I got it:
https://www.stockinteriors.com/STPSilver.asp?Itemid=22658

BruceS · « **Reply #59 on:** June 23, 2020, 07:57:21 AM »

Mike, looking great. I love that Emberglo color on the '62s. And thanks for the link to Stock Interiors. Did your car have the rear seat belt reinforcements welded on the floorpan from the factory? My Dallas-built '63 did not. And yes, the body needs to be lifted to install those fuel lines.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #60 on:** June 23, 2020, 08:09:03 AM »

Quote from: BruceS on June 23, 2020, 07:57:21 AM

Did your car have the rear seat belt reinforcements welded on the floorpan from the factory? My Dallas-built '63 did not.

This car was also built in Dallas, and no it doesn't. I have Rotunda belts for front/rear and I've been scratching my head about how to do the rears. The car already had a front set of belts so I stole all the hardware from the existing set, the front set should be super quick.

allrightmike · « **Reply #61 on:** June 23, 2020, 02:27:06 PM »

Quote from: mbrunson427 on February 17, 2020, 10:25:44 AM

This weekend we messed with the steering column. The Borgeson power steering box requires that the column be shortened roughly 2-3/4" (2.675" to be exact). I was in a hurry and didn't get a picture of it all put back together. This column isn't the easiest to mount a gauge to, so I'm going to have the neighbor machine an aluminum piece that will fit around the multiple tubes and will bolt together in two halves around the column. I used the rear speaker grille to test out some interior spray paint I had mixed, looks like the guy did a pretty solid job!

allrightmike · « **Reply #62 on:** June 23, 2020, 02:31:15 PM »

Mike, question about fitment for the Borgeson steering box. I was told by Borgeson the box would not fit a '60 Starliner with shorty headers, what say you?

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #63 on:** June 23, 2020, 04:58:27 PM »

Quote from: allrightmike on June 23, 2020, 02:31:15 PM

Mike, question about fitment for the Borgeson steering box. I was told by Borgeson the box would not fit a '60 Starliner with shorty headers, what say you?

I found this picture of the '60....the hole in the firewall and the 3 holes in the frame for the steering box all look consistent with my '62. I'd see no reason why it wouldn't work? There could be some funky things going on with the '60 steering column, but as you can see, there's customization that has to happen anyhow.

My setup is more involved than what I see most people do, because I think 95% of people choose to avoid the rag joint. It would have been quite a bit simpler to avoid it and just run a simple rod coupling, but I don't tend to make things easy on myself.

TimeWarpF100 · « **Reply #64 on:** June 23, 2020, 11:03:26 PM »

Can't wait to see this one done! Looking really nice!

allrightmike · « **Reply #65 on:** June 24, 2020, 09:13:53 AM »

Thanks for the info Mike. My Starliner had factory power steering without a rag joint. The '60 wagon parts car I had came with manual steering and a rag joint! I am using the wagon column and rag joint. I may pursue this Borgeson setup. Could angle mill the shorty header at the mounting surface for more clearance if necessary. A little stock removal would result in considerable movement at the outlet end.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #66 on:** June 24, 2020, 11:12:40 AM »

I have seen plenty of guys run the borgeson with the long tube exhaust manifolds, that's what I'll be doing. I would figure that if the long tubes would work, that the shorties would be just fine?

allrightmike · « **Reply #67 on:** June 24, 2020, 11:50:43 AM »

Seems logical to me.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #68 on:** July 14, 2020, 03:51:46 PM »

I received the front seat from the upholstery shop so now it's time to put the interior together. Back seat was nice enough that it didn't need to be redone. This weekend I fixed up the package tray, it was a little worn from sun. I got half way done installing the rear seat belts and realized that I didn't have enough of the hooks so I'm kind of stuck waiting on those to come from Pennsylvania.

The carpet you see is actually NOS carpeting. I got SUPER lucky finding it. My dad stopped by and looked at it, he immediately advised that I rip the heater core out of the car and get a nice new one in it so I don't ruin my fancy carpet. So now I'm waiting on the heater core to ship in from New York too. The carpet was folded so you can see the crease in the middle of it, I'm hoping it relaxes and the seem goes away.

There's an exposed part of the carpet underneath the front seat. You can't really see it unless you are looking for it once the front seat is in. Being that I have a few days waiting on stuff I think I may paint it black or at least slide something underneath the carpeting that is black so you don't see the silver sound deadening foil.

mike7570 · « **Reply #69 on:** July 14, 2020, 05:09:00 PM »

If the carpet is easily removable set it out in the sun to warm it up and relax the backing, smooth it out as you put it back in to remove the crease marks.
If they are stubborn a wall paper steamer would help. The marks may be slightly visible for a while but they should go away as long as the backing wasn't heavily distorted by the folding.

turbohunter · « **Reply #70 on:** July 14, 2020, 07:24:34 PM »

Really pretty interior.

cjshaker · « **Reply #71 on:** July 15, 2020, 07:15:45 AM »

Beautiful interior, for a beautiful car. My grandparents bought a '62 4dr new off the lot. After many years of use, they gave it to my parents, and that's the car that my Mom drove while I was growing up. I still have all the literature and dealer pamphlets, still in their original mailing packages. The stuff still has crisp colors and looks like new. It'd take me a day or 2...or 3, but if you want them, you can have them. Let me know. They would look nice, displayed in your car.

BruceS · « **Reply #72 on:** July 15, 2020, 08:10:58 AM »

Mike, I just replaced the carpet in my '63 Fastback with a new set from ACC which was supplied by SMS. The exposed areas won't show and your NOS carpet was cut the same as the original set on my Dallas-built car. Mine came rolled up and quickly relaxed when I laid it out flat for a day or so.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #73 on:** July 15, 2020, 08:17:08 AM »

Quote from: cjshaker on July 15, 2020, 07:15:45 AM

Beautiful interior, for a beautiful car. My grandparents bought a '62 4dr new off the lot. After many years of use, they gave it to my parents, and that's the car that my Mom drove while I was growing up. I still have all the literature and dealer pamphlets, still in their original mailing packages. The stuff still has crisp colors and looks like new. It'd take me a day or 2...or 3, but if you want them, you can have them. Let me know. They would look nice, displayed in your car.

Doug, that would be awesome! I have collected a bit of '62 literature, magazine articles and such. I have the original sales receipt for the car and some maintenance paperwork from the dealer. Was going to somehow put all that stuff in the trunk. Get a hold of me via PM or email (my email is just my mbrunson427 @ gmail), I'll pay you for everything you've got.

cjshaker · « **Reply #74 on:** July 15, 2020, 10:33:35 AM »

Quote from: mbrunson427 on July 15, 2020, 08:17:08 AM

Quote from: cjshaker on July 15, 2020, 07:15:45 AM
Beautiful interior, for a beautiful car. My grandparents bought a '62 4dr new off the lot. After many years of use, they gave it to my parents, and that's the car that my Mom drove while I was growing up. I still have all the literature and dealer pamphlets, still in their original mailing packages. The stuff still has crisp colors and looks like new. It'd take me a day or 2...or 3, but if you want them, you can have them. Let me know. They would look nice, displayed in your car.

...I'll pay you for everything you've got.

No you wont

I'll send you a PM. You'll like the dealer literature. It literally looks like it just came in the mail. It'll look perfect in your car.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #75 on:** July 15, 2020, 03:10:27 PM »

I didn't think about it initially, but we happened to have some Rotunda seat belt hardware stashed away for the Starliner project, so I stole that stuff and got the back seat in. Now just waiting on heater core.

I tried out the seatbelt in the back and there's a lot of slack for me. I told my dad he needs to swing by and test the seat belt to see if I need to shorten up the slack (he's quite a bit bigger than me). Hurt his feelings a bit

gdaddy01 · « **Reply #76 on:** July 15, 2020, 07:40:42 PM »

you going to make dad get in the back ? more 2020 stuff ?

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #77 on:** August 03, 2020, 09:17:36 AM »

Suspension components are painted. Hoping to have the car back on the ground next weekend.

My427stang · « **Reply #78 on:** August 03, 2020, 10:21:54 AM »

Very nice!

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #79 on:** August 12, 2020, 06:57:11 PM »

Heads are done, engine is moving along quickly now.....I better get moving on the car.

BP "engine masters CNC" head for those wondering. C4AE-G castings.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #80 on:** August 17, 2020, 01:40:20 PM »

Some engine pictures, coming together! The pictures show some of the odd requests I've made on the intake. The Performer RPM intake does not come with any provisions for an oil fill tube or PCV, which creates a situation where you can't run the factory Thunderbird valve covers. Here are the modifications, oil fill tube welded in and draft tube connection in the rear. Script will all be deleted and intake painted black.

By the way, the oil fill tube hits a water jacket when you drill the hole, so the modification should be left to someone who knows how to weld on cast aluminum.

blykins · « **Reply #81 on:** August 17, 2020, 06:28:03 PM »

Nice.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #82 on:** August 18, 2020, 08:25:52 AM »

Thanks Brent. Every time I walk out into the barn and look at the car I add 5 more things to the "to-do" list. No promises on when the car will be on the road, but I'm picking away at it.

Tested out my old motor minder gauge on my Dad's Glaaxie last night and determined that the gauge still functions properly, so that was a win. Don't have to send it in and have it redone.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #83 on:** August 24, 2020, 09:33:27 AM »

Alright guys, here it is, the "300hp Z-code 390". Heading to the dyno this week.

WConley · « **Reply #84 on:** August 24, 2020, 10:40:43 AM »

I'd say that "Z Code cast iron 4V intake" has been to the all-you-can-eat buffet a few too many times

Engine looks great! I do like the understated factory paint. Your car is going to be a sweetheart!

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #85 on:** August 24, 2020, 11:00:48 AM »

Quote from: WConley on August 24, 2020, 10:40:43 AM

I'd say that "Z Code cast iron 4V intake" has been to the all-you-can-eat buffet a few too many times

Engine looks great! I do like the understated factory paint. Your car is going to be a sweetheart!

Ha! Thanks Bill, I appreciate it.

BIGBLOCKHEAD · « **Reply #86 on:** August 25, 2020, 02:13:09 PM »

If you don't mind my asking, who do you use for your dyno work?
stew

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #87 on:** August 25, 2020, 02:44:14 PM »

Quote from: BIGBLOCKHEAD on August 25, 2020, 02:13:09 PM

If you don't mind my asking, who do you use for your dyno work?
stew

Blair is doing that engine, so he's using his friend Jim's dyno as he usually does. We're about to dyno the 428 for our Mustang and we'll do that at Greeley Automotive machine in Greeley Colorado. They have a setup for FE engines, have FE dyno headers available.

BIGBLOCKHEAD · « **Reply #88 on:** August 25, 2020, 02:57:55 PM »

Thanks!
stew

Nightmist66 · « **Reply #89 on:** August 25, 2020, 10:24:35 PM »

Looks great!

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #90 on:** August 25, 2020, 11:52:56 PM »

Dyno today! Numbers/Videos/Graph in the dyno results section

Gregwill16 · « **Reply #91 on:** August 26, 2020, 01:33:17 PM »

Very impressive! Dyno numbers are even better.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #92 on:** August 28, 2020, 02:35:49 PM »

Brakes are on and the car is back on all 4's. Feels like a huge weight lifted getting the car back on the ground, now it's at least mobile.

Next step is to sort out the steering. The Borgeson kit is a bit of a pain if you're going to use a rag joint. I wasn't willing to go without it. I think most folks probably just use a coupling. I'll have to remake a firewall plate.

Heo · « **Reply #93 on:** August 28, 2020, 04:04:50 PM »

Beautiful

BruceS · « **Reply #94 on:** August 29, 2020, 07:53:47 AM »

Mike, the engine compartment on your '62 looks is so similar to the '63. Watch out and make sure not to hit the heater blower motor cover plate when you're dropping the engine in, ask me how I know!

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #95 on:** October 18, 2020, 09:10:23 PM »

Engine is home. I did some messing around with air cleaners. I think the stock air cleaner is going to sit wayyy too high, but I would certainly like to use it for the times that I feel like going totally incognito if possible. It is probably going to end up with a drop base and a K&N air filter with the normal round 14" lid.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #96 on:** November 23, 2020, 11:27:13 AM »

Here is how it sits today. Over the next few weeks I will be working on the steering and do some mockup on the trans. I have done some research on the gear vendor trans in a '62 and I believe there is going to be some massaging of the tunnel to do to get the pinion angle right. The back flange of the transmission touches the tunnel, that is what I am expecting anyway.

TimeWarpF100 · « **Reply #97 on:** November 28, 2020, 09:55:19 AM »

Every part of that car is absolutely stunning! Makes me feel lazy...

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #98 on:** November 30, 2020, 04:08:02 PM »

Quote from: TimeWarpF100 on November 28, 2020, 09:55:19 AM

Every part of that car is absolutely stunning! Makes me feel lazy...

Thanks Randy! You get work done about 2000% faster than I do.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #99 on:** September 01, 2021, 10:05:44 AM »

I haven't updated this in quite some time. The '62 is always making very slow progress. At the rate I'm going, I may have it on the road next summer? Who knows. I intentionally never set a deadline on this car. Sure would be easier to have around if it moved under it's own power though

Next up: Going to take the rear end out of it, pull the bumper off, completely clean the underside and then put it all back together.

BruceS · « **Reply #100 on:** September 02, 2021, 08:27:54 AM »

Love that Galaxie Mike! Did you have to massage the tunnel for the GVOD?

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #101 on:** September 02, 2021, 12:05:26 PM »

Quote from: BruceS on September 02, 2021, 08:27:54 AM

Love that Galaxie Mike! Did you have to massage the tunnel for the GVOD?

I measured it all out and am pretty sure that the flange falls right in line with one of the floorboard braces. I grabbed a block that I can do a full trans mock up with, going to try that out soon. Hoping I don't have to beat on anything too much.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #102 on:** March 14, 2022, 09:46:30 AM »

I haven't updated this thread in a while because.....I lose motivation in the wintertime and get lazy. BUT, I'm back on it.

This weekend I pulled the rear end out. I have a new large bearing rear end for it that has reinforced spring perches. Once the bottom of the car is all cleaned up that will get that hung.

The majority of my Saturday was spent in a rain poncho spraying kerosene underneath the car and scraping off undercoating. It still needs about 4 more hours of work but I got burnt out. Maybe next Saturday I'll take a shot at it again. After doing all this cleaning I made the decision that I'll be masking and painting the frame.

Also, the fuel pump was dropped into the tank. Super easy, I really liked this setup. Hopefully it works well and is quiet.

Stangman · « **Reply #103 on:** March 14, 2022, 10:20:16 AM »

Very nice keep up the good work.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #104 on:** August 24, 2022, 08:35:04 AM »

I received all the rear end components, got excited and slapped them all together Sunday. I'm waiting on new front spring bushings from Calvert. There seems to be two sizes of front spring eyes? My springs have the smaller size, Calvert sent the larger size. Anyhow, they are taking care of it, they're a solid company!

Next up, I have to modify the front spring pockets to accept the Calvert brackets. I'll see if I can't modify it in a way that looks "stock".

CDXXVII · « **Reply #105 on:** September 01, 2022, 05:46:13 PM »

Quote from: mbrunson427 on March 14, 2022, 09:46:30 AM

That is the factory primer on the underbody? What color is it?
I want to restore my Dallas built '62 Galaxie to a 'correct' level by referencing original survivors. Thanks!

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #106 on:** September 06, 2022, 03:48:42 PM »

I'm not sure how to tell you exactly what the color is, there is really no documentation on this (as you may have already figured out). My car also came from the Dallas assembly plant, so it's safe to say that yours should be painted the same color. It's a tan color with a hint of green in it.

You can see where the underside had overspray on it. I showed all of these pictures to the body shop that is painting our '60 Starliner, they aren't going to mask the bottom side when spraying color on the car in hopes that it oversprays similarly.

Let me see if I can grab you a paint chip from the wheel well area, because I'm going to paint both of the wheel wells black.

BruceS · « **Reply #107 on:** September 07, 2022, 07:38:34 AM »

CD, Bud Potter of budsclassiccars.com may have some insight for you. I realize he supports '63 and '64 only but might know what underside primers were used in '62. My Dallas-built '63 Galaxie was sprayed underneath with a red primer from the factory. It was also undercoated probably by the dealer but I've been able to remove a lot of it and was able to see what color was used.

Val406 · « **Reply #108 on:** September 14, 2022, 08:17:34 PM »

Hey Mike, sent you a PM when you get a chance. Thanks, Val.

CDXXVII · « **Reply #109 on:** October 02, 2022, 11:59:29 AM »

I've read on the Mustang forums that the SPI red epoxy primer is a popular method on their underbody restorations.

I bought a quart to experiment with. Maybe not as 'correct' as the tan but adequate?

Image attached:

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #110 on:** October 03, 2022, 03:09:12 PM »

It seems like the red oxide is the "can't go wrong" approach. That's what we're doing with the '60 Starliner because we didn't have a good idea of how the car was from the factory.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #111 on:** October 11, 2022, 08:42:24 AM »

Things went a little overboard over the last couple of days. The underside of the car has been cleaning up well enough that we decided to go full-tilt and pull the frame. This should make a few things easier in the long run, such as painting the frame, securing the fuel lines, and boxing in the spring perches for Cal-Trac modifications.

Oh, and my cousin brought his new puppy down while working on the car. Trying to teach him young to be a garage guy.

66FAIRLANE · « **Reply #112 on:** October 12, 2022, 05:43:00 PM »

Good lookin' pooch.

CDXXVII · « **Reply #113 on:** October 13, 2022, 08:41:17 PM »

Jealous of the clean condition of your car. Look on top of the right frame rail aft of the firewall. My Dallas built '62 has 2 VINs stamped where they are only visible when you take the body off. The 'official' VIN is on the frame just forward of the firewall (you probably knew that!).

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #114 on:** October 17, 2022, 08:12:16 AM »

I looked this weekend, I found the 2nd VIN stamping. About half way back on the passenger side. Interesting, I had never heard anybody talk about that one before.

CDXXVII · « **Reply #115 on:** February 19, 2023, 08:28:54 PM »

Your recent photos got wiped due to server problems. Maybe repost them?

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #116 on:** February 20, 2023, 09:41:10 AM »

Reposting some pictures that were lost:

CDXXVII · « **Reply #117 on:** February 21, 2023, 07:20:10 PM »

I really like the tan underbody, especially since my '62 project is also Dallas built.
Unfortunately my car spent so much time in the north there might not be enough primer left to analyze and match.

machoneman · « **Reply #118 on:** February 22, 2023, 06:28:56 AM »

was the underside sand blasted or another method was used? Very clean!

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #119 on:** February 22, 2023, 09:42:10 AM »

Quote from: machoneman on February 22, 2023, 06:28:56 AM

was the underside sand blasted or another method was used? Very clean!

The method was me in a rain poncho spraying kerosene underneath it and scraping/brushing off undercoating. Was a total pain. Worth it in the end, but it took way too much time. Every time I gowned up and worked on it my wife would come out and take a picture of me and send to our friends....."my husband is nuts".

machoneman · « **Reply #120 on:** February 22, 2023, 03:25:20 PM »

Ah, but she was right! Sorry.

Hey your work paid off as man that is a clean underside!

galaxiex · « **Reply #121 on:** February 22, 2023, 08:20:53 PM »

I cleaned the fairly thick factory tar like undercoating from my 66 Galaxie with a cold water pressure washer.
No soap either.

Hate Honda's?
That little 13 horse Honda driving a nasty 4000 PSI pressure washer, peeled the undercoating off like you wouldn't believe.
Honda ran like a champ the whole time.
Used a narrow jet on the wand, I think 10 or 15 degree?
All that was left was a "very" thin film of goo that wiped off easy with some rags and varsol.
Left the bottom spotless.

I got a little wet from the water, but it was a walk in the park compared to my buddy that used a propane torch and a scraper on his car.

I read about this method years ago in HotRod magazine.
I think the article was by Frieburger.

Maybe this will help someone?
Just don't point the nozzle at any paint you care about. It will rip it off before you can blink.

Sorry, I didn't take any good close pics of the bottom after it was done,
but I can assure it was clean!

You can kinda see some of the clean spots in the pics,
and the goo on the concrete pad that used to be on the car.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #122 on:** June 05, 2023, 09:30:10 AM »

Some recent progress.

Stangman · « **Reply #123 on:** June 11, 2023, 11:30:48 AM »

Just about done now. It gets exciting at the end

6667fan · « **Reply #124 on:** June 11, 2023, 03:12:24 PM »

Beautiful.

Looks like Gal City in there.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #125 on:** June 12, 2023, 08:28:11 AM »

Quote from: Stangman on June 11, 2023, 11:30:48 AM

Just about done now. It gets exciting at the end

Definitely, I've felt my enthusiasm for it increasing. Just picked up the engine block for it from the machine shop Friday....I think my next updates will all be engine related.

CDXXVII · « **Reply #126 on:** June 24, 2023, 08:25:17 PM »

My Dallas built '62 Galaxie is just about the opposite. Mostly stripped in pieces.
If the tan/green paint on the underside could be deciphered into a paint mix recipe I would definitely want to use it on mine.

News:

Author Topic: '62 Galaxie Progress Report (Read 30929 times)

mike7570