Ford truck for towing

[bsprowl]

I need a truck for towing a trailer and race car.  I'm wondering if a 2011 F-150 2wd will be enough.  It won't be a heavy car.  Most likely under 3500 pounds.

Jay: what truck (year, model and engine) do you have and what kind of mileage do you get empty and then towing and the weight of the load?

Thanks

Bob

[chris401]

I need a truck for towing a trailer and race car.  I'm wondering if a 2011 F-150 2wd will be enough.  It won't be a heavy car.  Most likely under 3500 pounds.

Jay: what truck (year, model and engine) do you have and what kind of mileage do you get empty and then towing and the weight of the load?

Thanks

Bob

That is a dependable choice I think. 5.4 would be plenty powerful. I would hear around 11 or 12 mpg towing around 10,000 gvw. Timing chain and guides every 150,000 miles and Moog suspension parts are the norms I recall.

[chilly460]

I had a 2004 5.4L 2wd with 3.73 rear, it towed 6300lbs OK.  Mileage was 19mpg empty/12-13mpg towing.  I fully admit I'm on the side of overkill when towing, the 5.4L was "adequate" but I wouldn't call it ideal.  If you live in flatlands it would be fine. 

I have a 2017 2.7L 4wd Ecoboost with 3.55s now, towing same 6300lb combo.  Just towed it up to PA, returned 14.5mpg running 70mph from Va, I do 22-23mpg empty.  The little V6 is miles ahead for towing, tons of torque at 2500rpm.  I've towed with supercharged 5.8L and the 5.4L Lightnings, and I will say the Ecoboost combined with 6spd auto is just as good for towing, power is right now and the 6spd keeps it right in the power at 65-70mph. 

[Joe-JDC]

My Ford with 5.4 would only get 14-15 on open road at 70 mph, and 9-11 towing.  Have since had two Tundras that get 19-21 empty, and 14 towing mustang on trailer to and from Fl.  Joe-JDC

[Royce]

I had a 13 150 4wd with a 5.4  I towed my enclose trailer at about 10,000 GVW and all the wind resistance you get at 70 mph.. I would say it was the minimum required for the job, but I never had any kind of failure.. I would drop out of overdrive on grades. about 10 towing and 18 empty

[HarleyJack17]

If you stick with a Ford, I would look for an eco-boost. No comparison to a 5.4 motor as far as towing.  The little turbo'd suckers are very stout/torquey little engines.
I am not impressed with the 5.4/6.4 Triton Engines on durability or power.

[Kirk Morgan]

If you get a truck with the 5.0 you will not be disappointed. We went to Ohio last year from San Antonio Texas and got 17mph towing a empty 16 foot flat bed doing 75 to 80 miles per hour going. Coming back with a 95 Mustang on the trailer we got 15mph going 70 to 75 miles per hour. Empty gets 20 to 21 miles per gallon. Going thru Tennessee and Kentucky in the mountains we had plenty of power to spare.   

[Falcon67]

2004 F-150 5.4L, 3.73 rear.  Open trailer with car = 5500 lbs plus people.  Average 11 MPG @ 70.  With 9200 lb 24' box, about 8~9 MPG.  Been all over Texas with both.  It's pulled a 6000 lb skid loader on the open trailer no problem.  If you decide to pull a box, for sure get a load leveling hitch setup and possibly beef up the tail section with good shocks and an add-on sway bar.  The only issue with the F-150 is the light weight tail end.  Ours is rated for 9900 lbs but you can't really put 900+ lbs of tongue weight on the tail end without load levelers.  600 is OK, enough for an open trailer and a car.  I've also pulled my daughters ex-BIG dodge SUV halfway across Texas on the open after she got in a wreck.  No problems.  I prefer to run around 65 when towing with either truck.  Note that most of your ST rated trailer tires should be speed rated at around 65.  The guys bitching about tire issues on trailers are the ones that never inspect the tires and go by you at 80 with a full load. 

With the 1993 F-350 DRW 7.5L gas, 4.10 rear we're pulling a 34' at around 11,500 lbs.  6.5 MPG  36 gallons, max under load about 160 miles.  Switch tanks at 80 miles, 40 miles later start looking. 

Empty - 5.4L about 19 MPG.  F-350 - maybe 10 MPG if running with the wind.

[Falcon67]

ALSO - know your weight.  Ask around the track "How much are you pulling?"  "Have no idea".    We have one guy that comes from New Mexico - about 5 hr pull - with a 48' 5th wheel and a SRW one ton. 

[jayb]

Bob, I've towed my race car on an open trailer with a 2005 F150 4X4 with the 5.4 liter engine.  No problems, got about 9-10 MPG when towing.  Probably about a 6000 pound car and trailer.

With my new F150 FX4 (new as in 2014), 3.5 Ecoboost engine, I tow my fully enclosed trailer with the car and a bunch of other stuff.  I am right up at the max recommended weight, just over 10,000 pounds for the fully loaded trailer.  That engine is unbelievable as far as power, it has absolutely no problem towing that trailer.  However, mileage drops precipitously, from around 17-18 for just the truck to 6-7 when towing the trailer.  Also, my trailer is 28' and it acts like a big sail in the wind, it jerks that half ton pickup around pretty good when its gusty or when some big semi goes by at speed.  It gets me there, though...

[cjshaker]

1970 F-350 dually 6.4 (390 ). Pull 9000+ lbs and have no issues at all getting through the hills of Pennsylvania, and getting the same mileage as the new 'high tech' $50-$70k trucks. Tongue weight isn't an issue, and with my 100 gallon auxiliary tank, I can drive all day without stopping. Only issue is I don't have puddle lights on my exterior mirrors 

[FrozenMerc]

1985 F-350. 6.9 IDI, 4 speed + 2 spd Range Splitter.  Gets 14-15 mpg empty and 12 mpg with my '24 enclosed (10,000 lb capacity) hanging off the bumper. 

We used my buddy's '14 F-150 (5.0) and my trailer to go get a '59 Merc M-100 Panel Truck out of Winnipeg two summers ago (I hadn't purchased the '85 yet, and my '76 F-250 had the tranny out of it.)  The F-150 had plenty of power , but that enclosed would walk the F-150 all over the place with a cross wind (I-29 across eastern No-Dak), even with the load leveler.  The trailer doesn't do that to the F-350.  I can load my '62 Merc Monterey wagon (Think 5000+ lbs of car) into the trailer, and pull it comfortably any where I want.  The 6.9 is a bit down on power compared to modern diesels, but the range splitter helps that alot, and it will soon get a Banks turbo kit as well.  Being all mechanical, no DEF, no emissions equipment, and stupid reliable makes up for some of it's other shortcomings.

[RustyCrankshaft]

1970 F-350 dually 6.4 (390 ). Pull 9000+ lbs and have no issues at all getting through the hills of Pennsylvania, and getting the same mileage as the new 'high tech' $50-$70k trucks. Tongue weight isn't an issue, and with my 100 gallon auxiliary tank, I can drive all day without stopping. Only issue is I don't have puddle lights on my exterior mirrors 

Easy to add some puddle lights and then you'd be nearly as hi tech at the 70k trucks!

1985 F-350. 6.9 IDI, 4 speed + 2 spd Range Splitter.  Gets 14-15 mpg empty and 12 mpg with my '24 enclosed (10,000 lb capacity) hanging off the bumper. 

We used my buddy's '14 F-150 (5.0) and my trailer to go get a '59 Merc M-100 Panel Truck out of Winnipeg two summers ago (I hadn't purchased the '85 yet, and my '76 F-250 had the tranny out of it.)  The F-150 had plenty of power , but that enclosed would walk the F-150 all over the place with a cross wind (I-29 across eastern No-Dak), even with the load leveler.  The trailer doesn't do that to the F-350.  I can load my '62 Merc Monterey wagon (Think 5000+ lbs of car) into the trailer, and pull it comfortably any where I want.  The 6.9 is a bit down on power compared to modern diesels, but the range splitter helps that alot, and it will soon get a Banks turbo kit as well.  Being all mechanical, no DEF, no emissions equipment, and stupid reliable makes up for some of it's other shortcomings.

And when the 6.9 finally gives up a 12v Cummins swap is basically a bolt in to that generation truck with off the shelf parts now.

[FrozenMerc]

And when the 6.9 finally gives up a 12v Cummins swap is basically a bolt in to that generation truck with off the shelf parts now.

I don't think so.  The Cummins swap is too cliche', equivalent to an LS swap in my warped mind.  When the 6.9 dies, a built 6.9/7.3 IDI turbo will replace it.

I may own a bunch of Fords, but my first car was a '67 IH Scout and I will always have a soft spot for IH power, and this truck scratches that itch.  The engine is old enough that it still has IH labels on it despite being produced after the bankruptcy.  The Navistar stuff hadn't started showing up yet.  Now, what to do with that 392 I have sitting in the shed.....?

[AlanCasida]

I have a 2015 F250 XL 2wd with the 6.2 gas motor. It usually gets around 16.5mpg driving to work and around 11.5 pulling my 4300lb Galaxie on an open trailer at about 68mph. I prefer an F250 or more for towing due to the stability.

[Rory428]

Bob, will you be towing an open or enclosed trailer? A F150 can be optioned to tow as much as my 99 F350 Dually is rated for, but I personally prefer the extra stability the heavier truck offers, especially if an emergency situation arises. My old 74 F350 ramp truck with a 390 4 speed served me well for 26 years, I always feared a high speed panic stop, since all the weight was on 2 axles. My 99 F350 has  large 4 wheel disc brakes, and with the added braking the 4 wheel trailer brakes provide, despite the extra 5000 pounds, the Dually/trailer combo stops much better. With a light duty truck, I would be concerned that the heavy trailer could push the truck around if a problem arose. If you don`t already have a truck, and had a budget in mind, I would rather have an older F350, or at least a 250, over a F150. I really like the dual rear wheels for stability in a crosswind too.  Although I seldom use the 99 F350 empty, the V10, 5 speed 3.73 gear combo has given 15 MPG on the highway, with the 9000 box behind, usually drops to 8 -8 1/2 MPG, but since I normally only put about 2500 miles a year on that truck, its much easier to pay more for gas than to have truck payments.

[Russ67Scode]

I have a 97 F-250 with every thing Banks makes for it.  One cylinder not working well pulling a enclosed trailer and a mustang @ 70 mph + got mid  12’s for gas mileage lean on it just a little rolls right up those big mountains
Just bought the same truck but a 350 dually

[Falcon67]

Having towed a regular height box with the F-150, any of the nicer taller boxes will put the tail section of the F-150 to the test.  DRW is the way to go with any larger box if you can swing it. 

[bsprowl]

I realize that a box trailer will need a larger truck.  I do not intend to tow a large box trailer. 

I'm seriously considering a fully loaded 2013 F-150 Super Duty SuperCab
4x4 with 3.5 Echo boost.  It has 105,000 miles, but the price is half of the price the original sticker price and includes a bumper to bumper warranty good for 5 years or to 180,000 total miles. 

[HarleyJack17]

They will do a 5 yr. 75k mile warranty on a 105,000 mile truck? No way they would do that circa 2005 when I was selling cars.  Once something hit 100,000 no major warranty company would touch it.  Better be safe and confirm that it is legit and a quality warranty company...it is very possible they do it these days since they will do a lot more to sell cars and the entire market has changed since 2005...but in my opinion it would be wise to confirm, best to be safe instead of sorry.  The ecoboost is a good choice but I do not know anything about their durability other than what Ford puts out.  Good luck.

[Falcon67]

X2 - Ford ESP or nothing IMHO.  We added $1600 worth of ESP to the 2017 Escape we bought used.  5 more years, 100K.  It's an ecoboost unit also.  My 2004 F-150 Super Crew is well out of warranty but paying to have it fixed is way cheaper than a replacement truck.  Gas engine stuff will be bad to fix out of pocket but not bear as bad as a diesel. 

All that said, a 3000~4000 lb car on a good quality 18' steel bed trailer with trailer brakes and a built in controller will pull just fine behind any decent F-150.  Just watch your tongue weight.  It would not hurt to run upgraded rear shocks and at least something like a Curt load leveler 10K hitch.  They are less than $400 on e-trailer.  You can't be too safe with a load on the tail IMHO. 

[Rory428]

I know the Ford Ecoboost engines have been around several years now, but does anybody know how they hold up over the long run? I tend to keep my vehicles a while, I have owned my Fairmont drag car for 33 years, and owned my 74 F350 for 26 years, so long term reliability is more important to somebody like me, than somebody who changes vehicles every 3 or 4 years. I know Ford really pushes the Ecoboost, but I personally just feel a heavier truck with a large engine is not working anywhere near as hard as a tiny turbocharged engine in a light truck would. Maybe I am just a dynosaur stuck in my "old school" mind set. Last race, a buddy showed up, towing his Pinto on an open trailer, behind a newer F150 with a 2.7 Ecoboost, and said it tows the trailer just fine. That said, he only lives 1/2 hour from the track, and has no hills in between.

[cjshaker]

I know the Ford Ecoboost engines have been around several years now, but does anybody know how they hold up over the long run?

The only real issue I've heard of is oil contamination in the intake ports, causing sludged valves and ports, spark plug fouling and combustion chamber fouling issues. Ford blames it on oil getting past the PCV system, but to me the reason is a bit more obvious; you're taking a small engine, putting healthy amounts of boost to it and basically running the crap out of them under heavy loads (small engine, heavy truck). Yeah, it's gonna blow past the rings and overwhelm the PCV system. A good catch-can or similar oil separator is the only known 'cure' that I know of.

Engine 'repairing' is becoming less and less of a thing. Now they tend to just tell people that they need replaced. And as complicated as engines are now, and given labor rates, that can often be the cheapest route. It's different if it's under warranty; replacing them seems to be the last option then. Yeah, irony.

I'll keep my old truck, thank you!

[RustyCrankshaft]

Is the V6 a dual injector engine yet? The DI only engines have a lot more trouble, even NA, with intake/valves sludging up than the DI & port injected engines.

I'm waiting for people to start crashing 2020's with the new 7.3 in it. I wouldn't mind swapping that into an older truck. By appearances only it seems like it'll be a solid platform to build from. But hard to say since they're not even in full production yet.

[cammerfe]

In '07 I started racing ECTA in North Carolina. The first two times we went---they were racing once a month---we drove the car. Coming home on the second trip, the discussion turned to, "What if we were to blow the engine---it's 760 miles from the race to home." There was an open trailer available, half-owned by my friend and another friend had a good F-350 available.

About a week before the third race weekend, we found that there had been a change in plans, and the truck wouldn't be available. My partner/Crew Chief simply went out and treated himself to a new F-150. It worked just fine and on the second trip with it, we decided to take an alternate route. We ended up in some very up-'n'-down terrain in West Virginia. The 150, complete with the base V-8 worked just fine. The car weighs something above 4K pounds and we had a few things in the truck bed. Add the weight of the open trailer and you have a significant load for a base 150 but it worked great. We got about 12 MPG as I remember.

The hills we encountered were substantial enough to have a run-off at the end of every downgrade---with a big pile of sand not far beyond. And there was some evidence that they got used every once in a while. Not long ago, Tom, my CC, traded that 150 in on a new one. It had held up very well, but there were some items that had grown weary and needed to be replaced. It had about 160 K miles on it at the time.

KS

[bsprowl]

That 75,000 warranty was at a Ford dealership.

I went a different direction got a 2000 F-250 extended cab with a 5.4 for $1800.  My needs changed, I won't be doing more that local towing for the next two or three years.

Thanks for all of the information.

Bob
 

[chris401]

That 75,000 warranty was at a Ford dealership.

I went a different direction got a 2000 F-250 extended cab with a 5.4 for $1800.  My needs changed, I won't be doing more that local towing for the next two or three years.

Thanks for all of the information.

Bob
 

Either the first years of the 2 valve or first years of the 3 valve had an issue with noisy camfollowers. The only ones I saw were under warranty so I would think the fix worked. I am partial to Rislone in everything late model we have owned. Keeps the oil clean and the deposits from sludging up. Keeps the timing chain tensioners clean and working.

[Falcon67]

I have occasional "rattle" at cold start but I have changed oil inside the required mileage for the life of the truck.  So far, so good.  I'm waiting on pricing of the 2020 Super Duty with the 7.3L gas.  Pretty sure I can't afford one, but still - it would be ideal for what we pull.

[e philpott]

I know the Ford Ecoboost engines have been around several years now, but does anybody know how they hold up over the long run? I tend to keep my vehicles a while, I have owned my Fairmont drag car for 33 years, and owned my 74 F350 for 26 years, so long term reliability is more important to somebody like me, than somebody who changes vehicles every 3 or 4 years. I know Ford really pushes the Ecoboost, but I personally just feel a heavier truck with a large engine is not working anywhere near as hard as a tiny turbocharged engine in a light truck would. Maybe I am just a dynosaur stuck in my "old school" mind set. Last race, a buddy showed up, towing his Pinto on an open trailer, behind a newer F150 with a 2.7 Ecoboost, and said it tows the trailer just fine. That said, he only lives 1/2 hour from the track, and has no hills in between.

The Ecoboost seems to be pretty good . the early ones need a Timimg Chain update and will throw cam timing out of synch codes when they are ready or somewhere around 100K mark .  the water pump is drivien by the Timing Chain so there will be NO roadside water pump jobs , doing a water pump is roughly the same as replacing the timing chain and a big job otherwise they are pretty good

[mike7570]

That 75,000 warranty was at a Ford dealership.

I went a different direction got a 2000 F-250 extended cab with a 5.4 for $1800.  My needs changed, I won't be doing more that local towing for the next two or three years.

Thanks for all of the information.

Bob
 

Best truck and tow vehicle I ever owned was my 2000 F-250 extended cab long bed 7.5 powerstroke diesel 5spd manual. It got 20mpg around town and about 19mpg on the freeway. Loaded with my big Lance camper trailer and race car it still got 14mpg and it would pull a house down in 1st gear.  it could be left on cruise control going up grades fully loaded.
Whish I still had it.

[chilly460]

I have been noodling on my next truck, want to achieve zero debt so looking older, thinking a 2008-2009 F250 6.4L diesel, specifically looking at these years because I want a 5speed and these are the last years.  How is it towing with a diesel/stick?  Assume it's a very useful combo. 

My truck is my second vehicle so want to keep cost down and pay cash, these would fit in my budget. 

[garyv]

I have a 97 F250 extended cab, long bed with the 7.3 power stroke diesel, automatic transmission and 411 gears. Has a TS Performance Auto 6 chip in it.  It's a beast of a truck. Last towing I did with it was last fall and hauled in a 1950 Ford F3 pickup. The trailer I hauled it on weighs around 2000lbs.An F3 is no lightweight and driving here in WV got around 12 MPG which I think is pretty darn good.  My truck weighs around 7000lbs empty.
I have towed in the past with my old F150 and there is no comparison to towing with a big heavy truck. This F250 just feels so much safer and you don't even know something is behind you.  On the interstate just set the cruise and let it roll.
I have towed heavier stuff with it and mileage always seems to be around 12MPG which I think is pretty good.

garyv

[hotrodford]

I have a 2000 F250, extended cab, 8 ft. bed, 6 speed manual trans. 3.73 gear and DP 4 position tuner.  Unloaded, 6940 lbs +or-, gets 21mpg all day long, 69 Mustang on an open trailer-17 mpg, same car in a 24 ft. enclosed trailer 13 mpg.  The manual trans is fine to tow with.  There are times when I would like to have an auto-especially when backing the trailer.  If I drive the truck "around town", which I rarely do, I would much rather have an auto and not being an auto trans is probably the main reason I rarely drive it around town. 

[Rory428]

I have a 97 F250 extended cab, long bed with the 7.3 power stroke diesel, automatic transmission and 411 gears. Has a TS Performance Auto 6 chip in it.  It's a beast of a truck. Last towing I did with it was last fall and hauled in a 1950 Ford F3 pickup. The trailer I hauled it on weighs around 2000lbs.An F3 is no lightweight and driving here in WV got around 12 MPG which I think is pretty darn good.  My truck weighs around 7000lbs empty.
I have towed in the past with my old F150 and there is no comparison to towing with a big heavy truck. This F250 just feels so much safer and you don't even know something is behind you.  On the interstate just set the cruise and let it roll.
I have towed heavier stuff with it and mileage always seems to be around 12MPG which I think is pretty good.

garyv

I had always thought that Ford dropped the manual transmissions in F series trucks even earlier than that. I don`t know what manual transmission a 6.4L diesel would come with, but my 99 F350 Dually has a ZF 5  speed, and I really like it. Compared to the old NP435 in my old 74 F350, the ZF has a much more usable 1rst gear, is fully syncronized and has an overdriven 5th.  My truck is not a diesel, rather a 6.8 V10, with 3.73 gears, and rather tall 236/85R16 tires, so I rarely use 5th when towing my 24 foot enclosed trailer, unless its dead flat, at freeway speeds. A much torquier diesel, or more rear gearing would make 5th more useable, although most OD transmissions have smaller, weaker gears for overdrive. No idea what type of ratios the 6 speed manuals have, or if they have 2 overdrives or not.

[mike7570]

I have been noodling on my next truck, want to achieve zero debt so looking older, thinking a 2008-2009 F250 6.4L diesel, specifically looking at these years because I want a 5speed and these are the last years.  How is it towing with a diesel/stick?  Assume it's a very useful combo. 

My truck is my second vehicle so want to keep cost down and pay cash, these would fit in my budget.

We use Ford diesels at work, get the 6.7 much better than the two before it.

[chilly460]

I have a 97 F250 extended cab, long bed with the 7.3 power stroke diesel, automatic transmission and 411 gears. Has a TS Performance Auto 6 chip in it.  It's a beast of a truck. Last towing I did with it was last fall and hauled in a 1950 Ford F3 pickup. The trailer I hauled it on weighs around 2000lbs.An F3 is no lightweight and driving here in WV got around 12 MPG which I think is pretty darn good.  My truck weighs around 7000lbs empty.
I have towed in the past with my old F150 and there is no comparison to towing with a big heavy truck. This F250 just feels so much safer and you don't even know something is behind you.  On the interstate just set the cruise and let it roll.
I have towed heavier stuff with it and mileage always seems to be around 12MPG which I think is pretty good.

garyv

I had always thought that Ford dropped the manual transmissions in F series trucks even earlier than that. I don`t know what manual transmission a 6.4L diesel would come with, but my 99 F350 Dually has a ZF 5  speed, and I really like it. Compared to the old NP435 in my old 74 F350, the ZF has a much more usable 1rst gear, is fully syncronized and has an overdriven 5th.  My truck is not a diesel, rather a 6.8 V10, with 3.73 gears, and rather tall 236/85R16 tires, so I rarely use 5th when towing my 24 foot enclosed trailer, unless its dead flat, at freeway speeds. A much torquier diesel, or more rear gearing would make 5th more useable, although most OD transmissions have smaller, weaker gears for overdrive. No idea what type of ratios the 6 speed manuals have, or if they have 2 overdrives or not.

They went to a ZF 750 6spd with the 6.0-6.4L trucks, could get them up through 2010 but VERY hard to find.  I'd have to check tire height and run some numbers to see whether 3.73 or 4.10 would be best, but considering I'd only be towing ~6500lbs, I'm sure the 3.73 would be more than enough and would still make 5th (1:1) useable if I ever needed to tow out of overdrive.  Ratios look ok to me, bit of a gap 2-3 but guessing it's workable with a diesel.  My only experience towing was an NP435 and this would be loads better

ZF 6 SPEED RATIOS

5.79 : 1

3.30 : 1

2.10 : 1

1.31 : 1

1.00 : 1

0.72 : 1

5.23 : 1

[Falcon67]

I hear all the good about diesel pulling, but I've also seen the $$$$$ involved when one breaks.  I don't have those skills so I prefer to stick with gas.

[HarleyJack17]

Let the flaming begin: But if you are really going to be hauling heavy loads get a Pre-Hippy Juice Cummins Diesel with a manual.  I have seen them all tow, and a Cummins with a stick is not going to be beat when you hit a mountain pulling 12,000 lbs.  The rest of the truck may rot away but the Cummins will still be running and pulling houses off their foundations. 

[My427stang]

I have owned all of the Ford diesels, some for a while, some for short time. 

2000 7.3 - Great engine, not super fast, but makes power in the lower RPM range and you can work on it without pulling the cab and nose.  Some bothersone little issues, but very few.  Great mileage, doesn't need a lot of boost to make power, but really needs both a transmission improved kit and a mild reprogram to be a fun truck to tow.  Fuel mileage around town was about 15, towing hard to say because it depends on winds, weight, trailer, etc

2007 6.0 - I was not impressed, head gasket issues initially when new, but real issue is it needs boost to make the torque of a 7.3.  That being said, runs circles around a 7.3, but uses fuel to do it.  Still, relatively easy to work on, runs real hard when you get it right, also likes electronic tuning. Was about 14.5 mpg in town, watch the trend.  Had an issue with shimmy (6.0 guys call it death wobble, Ford took it back and I got a 2008)

2008 6.4 - I loved this truck, engine is fun, sounds great, quiet, does not pull much without boost.  Fuel hog....has a DPF which means you need to regen now and again, and until you get used to it, you won't believe how crazy it can sound.  You can eliminate the DPF with a tuner, can reporgram the tranny unlike earlier, pulls strong even stock.  Hard not to like the engine and tranny, but not good on fuel.  A solid 13.5 mpg in town, but the kicker is, can't even change a valve cover gasket without pulling the cab and nose.  Nice thing is, Ford designed the cab and nose to be unbolted from the bottom.  I had a hard time trading this truck, other than mileage I loved it, but  it was not easy to work on the engine the way they pack it in

2013 6.7 - I had this one for a week.  Real bummer too, lost money, but in the end happy.  Engine was a MONSTER, quiet as a gasser, like a quiet sewing machine, tranny was awesome, suspension was a bit more bouncy, but many different configurations and the 2008 had all the heavy F250 goodies and this one didn't.  The issue was the seats were miserable in 2 ways.  As a 230 lb guy, I was never comfortable, but more than that, the memory stuff and dash all started going crazy.  Seat would move driving down the road, pedals would move, gauges were wonky.  They said in 2013 that they were stumped, and offered me another truck.  Mileage seemed great, but also needed the cab removed for work.  That truck felt like a big block car, it was fast and fun, but jumped ship to see how it towed, I assume awesome

Where I ended up...

2013 6.7 Cummins - I wanted to hate this truck, but it is by far the best truck I have owned, has been all over the US and I see why they have a cult following.  not drag race fast like the Fords, but even with 11K on the bumper, the Fords don't out pull me on a hill. 16+ MPG in town, 22-24 empty on cruise on the highway, engine uses more compression and less boost and less RPM to make power, so it rarely shifts and you just hear a little whistle when the cruise tells it to hammer down.  I town in the passing lane when required and I just can't imagine getting rid of the truck.  Solid flat tappet, I closed the lash up as much as I could when new to get a bit more on top (I was used to the Fords that rev a LOT higher).  It clucks away at idle, but quiet inside.  I literally have done nothing to this truck other than basic maintenance, but if I do have to, I can reach and touch everything.  Regen you can't hear, ever know if it does it, but it does.  The Ram also is about a foot shorter and the seats are awesome, fits in the garage a little easier

One negative - it is very difficult to unnaturally program a Mopar.  You have to buy a tool to hack the computer, and then you have to buy the program and another programmer, but by hacking, you really leave tracks even if you return to stock for whatever reason.  That being said, the guys are making ridiculous torque.  Mine is an 850 ft lb version, and I think Cummins are approaching or at 950 ft lbs now, so I kept this one absolutely bone stock other than a little electronic box to make the throttle pedal act more linear and the valve lash, but even with that, I left the lash at the tight side of stock on the exhaust side and barely tighter than stock range on the intake, to make sure the valves had time to dissipate heat when towing

I hated to jump ship, and intended to switch back as not only a long time Ford guy, but also long time Ford diesel guy, but I can't imagine myself in a different truck after this Ram

[HarleyJack17]

I hated to jump ship, and intended to switch back as not only a long time Ford guy, but also long time Ford diesel guy, but I can't imagine myself in a different truck after this Ram

Welcome to the dark side Ross!    I like the pre-Hippy versions better but only because I am simplistic.  I don't own one but sold, drove just about all diesels.  My good friend has had every iteration of Cummins and had the 7.3 Ford and 6.0 Ford.  Pulling a tri-axle toy hauler loaded through the hills you can see the Cummins beats them.  He can drop a gear(manual), keep the Cummins in the sweet spot and pass every one going up hill.  He pushes his stuff hard and 0 issues where as the Fords were slower and the 6.0 gave him the same fits.

I called BS on how much better the Cummins would pull until I got to experience it in person.  They are very very good engines and the best for pulling.  Something about that big inline 6, you just can't stop it.

His '19 model is getting 22 plus mpg if he babies it.  Must be nice, for me my V10 states the mpg on the fender and likes to spit teeth(spark plugs) at bystanders. 

   
 

[MeanGene]

I had a 97 F250 4x4 7.3, bone stock, and was very impressed with the towing power. Now have an 01 F350 4x4 duallie, 4 door cab Lariat, so about as heavy as possible, enough so that it is rated a Medium truck, not a Light truck, so no cat converter from the factory. It has a simple +100hp program and auto trans electronic shift kit, with 4" exhaust and exhaust brake, and just a ridiculous performer. You can stall it up and it will roast all four rear tires and come around sideways, tends to startle folks lol. Straight down the freeway empty it will get 23 mpg, and the best towing thing was when I had my 26K rated, 8 wheel backhoe trailer, went to Stockton and picked up a Farmall SMD and came back, and got 19.6 for the loop- one sweet running critter. Just about to hit 300K, replaced the water pump and alternator, that's it, just keeps chuggin'. One thing folks forget, just being able to pull the trailer isn't all, a half ton will move most car trailers, but the stability and braking are a big part of it. Hoping I can keep this one forever

[HarleyJack17]

[quoteOne thing folks forget, just being able to pull the trailer isn't all, a half ton will move most car trailers, but the stability and braking are a big part of it.][/quote]

Well said! Moving it on flat ground can be done with gears and 5 HP Briggs, but if you can't stop it or control it bad things are going to happen.

My wore out 360 in the Highboy pulled my RV better than my V10. But with no trailer brakes the drum brakes HATED it! The newer truck, no big deal stopping it. Around 6000 lbs.