5 speed converson FE Mustang.

[67428GT500]

I was curious if anyone has found a way around a 3K kit to convert an FE car. I don't want to cut anything in the process. It's a Shelby.

                                                                    -Keith

[blykins]

You will spend almost $2600 on the transmission alone and if you reuse the factory bell, then you have to add a shortened input shaft.  You’ll also need at least a clutch disc.  Really hard to do it for $3000.

[Russ67Scode]

And if you use a TKO 600 as I did you will need to trim the hole for the shifter ! It hits the right front corner of the factory shifter hole in the floor

[My427stang]

I haven't used one with a cut case, but apparently you can buy a machined case and an offset shifter that will let you jack up the tranny to stock location and not cut anything

We may use one on an upcoming build, not Shelby, but equally rare.  As Brent said, 3 grand will be tough, you will eat that up in tranny and shipping, when you add a clutch, crossmember, shifter, it goes past that number quick

I have had a standard short input shaft version in mine since 2006 and love it BTW.  I had to cut the floor brace just in front of the seats and trim the shifter hole.  However mine had been cut for a Super Shifter and the only pedigree mine has is the 427 block under the hood, the car is a mongrel. 

[Dumpling]

You can get an 8-speed by bolting a GearVendors OD to the back of a Toploader, probably less than $3K.

[Bolted to Floor]

I bought a kit from Modern Drive Line in 2013 and exceeded your budget amount then. it included the TKO 600 trans, Quick Time bell, Shifter, cross member, and all the parts for a hydraulic clutch. The shifter came up through the hole in the floor, no trimming required. Once I got it In the car, I did have to grind some off of the shifter bung that's bolted to the transmission to bolt the shift handle to. It was very close to the trans tunnel in 2nd, 4th, and reverse. There is not a lot of clearance between the trans tunnel and top side of the transmission, but nothing is touching that I can see.

They tell me that changes to the cross member were made that raise the back of the transmission up about 1/2" for a better driveline angle. For my car, this would put me into the tunnel. Not sure that a sledge would fix it. My car did get a pass on the drive line angle using the Tremec tool box app.

To do over, I think I would go with an external hydraulic throw out bearing.

I have talked with and exchanged emails with Modern Drive Line on multiple occasions and there customer support has always been exceptional. I give them the invoice number from the purchase so they know exactly what they sent me.

[67428GT500]

I would like to retain the bellhousing and OE linkage. I know there is a different spline count, which would necessitate an adapter to the bell housing and of course the cross member and a faux factory shifter handle. I saw some of the T5s that were supposedly good to 550lbs torque. So it gives me a 50lb window but.....

There seems to be plenty of six speeds floating around as well.  As for the Gear vendors, I haven't seen any real information and cost. I know they used to be around 1900.00.

[blykins]

The T5's are rated for higher hp, but they won't stand up to big block torque. 

I wouldn't consider an "adapter".  The shortened input shaft is the best way to go.  With an adapter, you have two bellhousing registers to deal with and the tolerances that come with that.  Not an ideal situation. 

[My427stang]

I would like to retain the bellhousing and OE linkage. I know there is a different spline count, which would necessitate an adpater to the bell housing and of course the cross member and a faux factory shifter handle. I saw some of the T5 that were supposedly good to 550lbs torque. So it gives me a 50lb window but.....

There seem to be plenty of six speeds floating around as well.  As for the Gear vendors, I haven't seen any real information and cost. I know they used to be around 1900.00.

Just to clarify, the only think a spline count changes is the disk if you go with the short shaft TKO.  It'll bolt right up to a stock bell and linkage, you just need a 390 throwout fork and bearing.

I haven't done a T5, but they are generally wimpier, I believe they need an adapter and driveshaft shortening, and don't have all the shifter options, you may be unhappy with that choice from beginning to end

6 Speeds are big, won't bolt to your bell, need a driveshaft swap, and also will cause shifter issues

The TKO was pretty well thought out, with the right input, you bolt it to your bell, works with your speedo cable, even the driveshaft is the same length and same yoke as a big int/out TL

If the Modern Driveline will keep you from cutting, it's the way to go.  Be sure though to check crank/tranny angle, the bottom of the fan can get pretty close on an FE car if you drop the rear, not nearly as bad with a SBF car

[hhiibel]

i see on 460 forum post about truck overdrive toploader standing up to a blown 460. and a ytube where a guy builds one for his race pontiac. something like top loader overdrive for roadkill. so seems what is said to be too weak actually will handle your 428. i think the ytube is like putting real top loader guts into overdrive toploader case. he did some sort of third gear shim mod whatever. yes all say no too weak. but...,

[67428GT500]

I called Modern Driveline. They offer a direct bolt with a small adapter at the housing and the cross member is simply changed with the factory unit. Even the speedometer cable stays on the right side.. They require no cutting of the tunnel in any way shape or form. The top plate centers the shifter in the factory location. The case is actually modified to clear the factory tunnel loop.  The only modification is the driveshaft. It has to be shortened one inch.
I called Centerforce and they will change out the hub on my disc being I only have 300 miles on it.
Modern Driveline also gives a 10% discount for veterans. So I got everything out the door for 3,376.00  The .064 final drive on the TKO600 should put me with 3.50's at about 1900 RPM at 65 in Overdrive!

[My427stang]

I called Modern Driveline. They offer a direct bolt with a small adapter at the housing and the cross member is simply changed with the factory unit. Even the speedometer cable stays on the right side.. They require no cutting of the tunnel in any way shape or form. The top plate centers the shifter in the factory location. The case is actually modified to clear the factory tunnel loop.  The only modification is the driveshaft. It has to be shortened one inch.
I called Centerforce and they will change out the hub on my disc being I only have 300 miles on it.
Modern Driveline also gives a 10% discount for veterans. So I got everything out the door for 3,376.00  The .064 final drive on the TKO600 should put me with 3.50's at about 1900 RPM at 65 in Overdrive!

So the only question I have is "Why the spacer?"  There is no requirement for a spacer with the correct input shaft.  Additionally, the right shifter and case work allows it to fit without having to cut a driveshaft.  That being said, if their combo works, that will be just fine, no issues with a spacer, but you have to 1-buy the spacer, 2-pay to have a driveshaft built or cut. FYI - I ran the stock 4 speed driveshaft for years only changing because I wanted big joints with the stroker

I will also say, that depending on tire size and engine build, you may want more gear later.  I started with a carbed 489 and 3.70s with 27 inch measured tire.  I ended up with 4.10s and still cruises like a baby at any speed on the highway.  No need to do right away, but think about it, depends on tire size, but you can go pretty deep before 1st is too short

Regardless, good stuff, the .64 TKO has been nothing but awesome in mine.  Equal to the EFI, maybe even a slight edge, in making it fun to go on longer runs

[67428GT500]

I don't have it yet. He mentioned "adapter". Perhaps my perception is "spacer" being I am retaining the OE bell housing and clutch linkage.

[Stangman]

What is the horsepower and torque of the motor it’s going behind. I was under the impression that the TKO isn’t that strong torque wise. I don’t know first hand just what I’ve read on the forum.

[My427stang]

You can do it either way, a TKO bolts up to a Toploader bell.  My guess is the it’s easier to stock a spacer than swap to the FE input shaft, so likely that’s why he does it that way. It’s all technique the spacers work fine, I have installed them both ways.

In terms of strength,  they are rated for 600 foot pounds continuous duty in some magical math problem .  They are certainly as strong as a Toploader if not stronger,  as far as experience on a Street FE, can’t imagine breaking one. Slicks I would consider it about the same as a toploader. I have 13 years on mine and it’s quiet and smooth behind a healthy 489