Which nonsynthetic oil to use

[Dubs1]

Hello Jay  and engine brain trust

  I  just received back from builder my sons 351W engine.  Ran break in oil about 80 miles  and now want to shift to a nonsymthetic  street oil to set the rings.

Engine has stock cam, hydraulic lifters,  edel intake 4V  for street use only.

What oil with the zink can I use?

Many thanks

Larry


Larry

[Katz427]

IMO after 80 miles the rings should have " seated in". If the hone was done correctly. Modern rings and honing method seat very quickly. On the small diesel engines , I would dyno them under a varying load for about 1/2 hr to seat them.  Lots of folks use Brad Penn, or Valvoline VR1 is very popular.  The owners manual for cars in the 50's, had longer "break in" periods, like 500 miles some even longer.

[My427stang]

Valvoline VR-1 is pretty tough to beat. I like Penngrade too but it’s a semi synthetic

[Dubs1]

Hi Ross

Thanks much.  Need to look around town to  see who sales it.

All the best

Larry

[427LX]

I use the 10W30 VR1 race oil non synthetic and our local NAPA has it. BUT you can order it online cheaper.

[blykins]

I agree, if the rings aren’t seated by the first couple instances of loading the engine, they’re not going to.

I would use the Valvoline VR1 non synthetic.  Brad Penn also offers a full mineral oil and if you can pony up for it, I would use that.

[BattlestarGalactic]

VR1 in everything I own.

[wayne]

VR 1 all the way for me

[Falcon67]

VR1 in everything I own.

Same - flat tappet and roller.  NOTE - as above.  With moly rings and the proper cylinder wall finish, rings seat nearly immediately.  If done properly by the shop, they seated before you left the driveway.  In my engines, once running I load the engine against the converter 2 or 3 times, then its hammer time.  I don't use flat tappet cams anymore, so that's the full extent of break in.  I put in VR1 10w-30 and run it.  I only run conventional oil in the race engines because if the worst happens it can be removed with mops and lacquer thinner.  Synthetic is very hard to get up off a drag strip.  You pretty much have to mop and burn the hell out of it which risks harming the track surface and rubber buildup. 

[winr1]

Hi Jack ....

Anyone break in a mill with non detergent oil ??

We did that in the late 50s and 60s



Ricky.

[e philpott]

Non detergent is good for cam break-in because it won't wash off the Cam Paste as quick like detergent oils do , but I've always used VR1 10-30 and never have trouble with mine or customers engines , so it's hard to switch up something that works and is proven to work good by many of us

[Falcon67]

Hi Jack ....

Anyone break in a mill with non detergent oil ??

We did that in the late 50s and 60s

Ricky.

Never.  Lots of improvements and changes in the last 50 years. 

[Stangman]

Brad Penn here 30 weight breaking oil, then 10-40 regular oil. But it seems Brad Penn and VR-1
are the go to oils for solid cam motors, as a matter of fact on this forum at least any motor no matter
 solid, hydraulic or solid roller.

[Hemi Joel]

I'm also running VR1. I made it thru Drag Week

[fryedaddy]

all i can find local is the vr1-50wt.is that ok for summertime