Author Topic: jayb adapter cover (Read 5578 times)

gregaba · « **on:** January 17, 2019, 06:34:16 PM »

Hi
I was looking at the Hot Rod network website today and they had an story about Holleys new coil near plug ignition system.
They showed it with a BB Chrysler. In the picture the Chrysler had a clear valley cover where you could see the lifters pushrods etc.
Would this be feasible on a street car or would the heat warp it?
Just wondered.
Greg

Dumpling · « **Reply #1 on:** January 17, 2019, 07:21:31 PM »

I have a PSE timing cover with a clear cover where Jay's has steel.
What's the recommended clear material...get out the jigsaw and drill

gregaba · « **Reply #2 on:** January 17, 2019, 07:24:51 PM »

Yeah
I think it would be neat to watch my push rods flex at high RPM if it didn't give me a heart attack.
Greg

jayb · « **Reply #3 on:** January 17, 2019, 08:22:41 PM »

I've thought about doing that, but never gotten around to it. The material you want to use is polycarbonate, comes in the trade names Lexan or Macrolon. This material will stay clear and hold up to engine temperatures, its what I make my clear valve covers out of. I'd use some thick stuff, probably 3/8", to make sure it is stiff enough to compress the O-ring and seal properly.

gregaba · « **Reply #4 on:** January 17, 2019, 10:13:37 PM »

Thanks Jay
I just might do that.
I all ways wondered what the hidden valve train looked like at high RPM.
It would be fun to watch with a strobe light.
Greg

gregaba · « **Reply #5 on:** January 22, 2019, 12:27:30 PM »

Well so much for that ideal.
The lexan is fairly cheap cost $110.00 but then they want $150.00 an hour if they can hand cut it $320.00 an hour if they have to use their water jet machine and the bolt holes are extra.
Beyond what I want to spend on a daily driver.
Greg

wowens · « **Reply #6 on:** January 22, 2019, 01:14:13 PM »

Cut it yourself. Use a thin fine tooth saw blade and go slow. Edges will sand fairly easy with a belt sander and drills easily with a bit that is not too sharp. Extremely sharp bits will dig in and damage material.

Joe-JDC · « **Reply #7 on:** January 22, 2019, 05:09:01 PM »

When you get it cut, sand edges with 2000 grit sandpaper, and then take a small butane/benzene torch and hold the flame just close enough to heat the edges. The lexan/polycarbonate will clear up and look professional. Too close and it will melt. Joe-JDC

gregaba · « **Reply #8 on:** January 22, 2019, 07:31:51 PM »

Thanks for the tips.
I have never worked with lexan before but for the price I think I will give it a try.
I was all so thinking of doing jaybs timing cover too.
I will buy extra lexan because I know I am going to mess up the first few tries.
Greg

wowens · « **Reply #9 on:** January 23, 2019, 07:07:03 AM »

Quote from: Joe-JDC on January 22, 2019, 05:09:01 PM

When you get it cut, sand edges with 2000 grit sandpaper, and then take a small butane/benzene torch and hold the flame just close enough to heat the edges. The lexan/polycarbonate will clear up and look professional. Too close and it will melt. Joe-JDC

Good tip Joe, never knew about that.

gregaba · « **Reply #10 on:** January 23, 2019, 11:50:19 AM »

I went online and found a place called eplastics.com that offers cut to size lexan.
I ordered 2- 3/8 inch sheets for $49.00 and 3 drill bits made for lexan and 2 saw blades for lexan.
The total to me with shipping was $89.78 so it was reasonable.
Now when it comes in I will see if I can screw it up or not.
I will post some pictures when I finish.
The only thing I could not find was a counter sink for the holes.
Greg

fekbmax · « **Reply #11 on:** January 23, 2019, 12:08:27 PM »

Use a cone shaped die grinder abrasive stone instead of a counter sink bit on plastic. Slow speed in a drill and it will give you alot better control and a nice counter sink.
The tip from Joe is spot on, it will give you a great finished look.
Make sure to share your finished piece.
Good luck.

gregaba · « **Reply #12 on:** January 23, 2019, 12:26:57 PM »

Good ideal.
I have never worked with lexan before.
We all ways had it cut at the glass shop for our race cars so all I did was install it.
I have a die grinder with a lot of cone shaped bits so that is not a problem even though I would not have thought to use them.
Greg

Falcon67 · « **Reply #13 on:** January 23, 2019, 04:07:15 PM »

LOL, that's cheaper than 3/8 aluminum. Might have been an option for my valley cover on the dragster.

67428GT500 · « **Reply #14 on:** January 23, 2019, 06:14:15 PM »

The key is low speed and not heating it up to the point it starts to melt. Should be interesting!
-Keith

gregaba · « **Reply #15 on:** January 23, 2019, 06:21:39 PM »

yeah
That is why I ordered extra. I have a 18 speed drill press and thought I would use the lowest speed and drill just a little bit on each hole going back and forth to keep down the heat.
I don't know how it will work out but hope for the best.
If I have to I will order more lexan until I figure it out.
Greg

gregaba · « **Reply #16 on:** January 31, 2019, 03:49:36 PM »

Hi
Well I have the first one made. I was not trying to make this perfect but just wanted to see how the jig saw would cut and to learn how to drill the holes without melting the Lexan.
The saw blades and drill bits I bought for the Lexan worked perfect. I decided to cut it real fast like I would metal and it cut like butter.
I did the same with the drill bit to see if it would crack or melt and no problems.
It took me about 30 minutes to saw it out and drill the holes.
Now for the fun-getting the paper off.
This was a real learning experience for me. The first side came off glue and paper after soaking it with dish soap and warm water for about 15 minutes.
The second side was the side from hell. It took me 2 hours to get the stuff off. I followed the directions and soaked it no luck.
The directions said to use goo gone and it would take off the glue.
After letting it soak for about 1 1/2 hour and using a thin plastic card to scrape it off it looked like I hadn't done anything.
I remembered I had a steam cleaner to clean my vinyl records. I was getting it ready and dried the plate off real good getting ready to steam it. When cleaning it I used my fingernail to get a big piece of glue off and the whole thing pealed off.
I guess the secret to use goo gone is to let it soak in, dry it good, and peel.
I also just marked the wholes with a pencil so they are a hair off. On my next try I will get some soft clamps and clamp jayb's adapter cover to it and use that as a guide so my holes will line up.
I think anybody can do this and if you buy the bits and blade's made for Lexan it is easy.
I also rounded the corners with my belt sander as the jig saw didn't want to follow the tight curves very good.
Here are some pictures.
Greg

Joe-JDC · « **Reply #17 on:** January 31, 2019, 04:35:14 PM »

The trick to removing the paper is to use a heat shrink gun. It will come off in a complete sheet if you do it right. Simple, fast. Done. Joe-JDC

gregaba · « **Reply #18 on:** January 31, 2019, 04:38:24 PM »

Thanks Joe
I have a couple of those guns and will give it a try on my next plate.
I will do number 2 plate tomorrow or the next day and will give your method a try.
Greg

wowens · « **Reply #19 on:** January 31, 2019, 05:08:28 PM »

There's a big hole in you adapter, I can see right through it !
Slick

gregaba · « **Reply #20 on:** January 31, 2019, 05:17:27 PM »

That's so I can change the oil from the top.
Greg

gregaba · « **Reply #21 on:** February 02, 2019, 04:55:44 PM »

Made the second plate this evening. I have everything done and with using jayb's plate as a template got the holes drills just right.
The hole you have to watch real close is the top front one on the plate, there is not much clearance on it but if you are careful no problem.
Here is a picture with it mounted and the screws installed.
I was going to make one for the timing cover but I don't know if there is 3/8 inch clearance between the CVR water pump and timing cover or not.
It looks like in the photo's I have seen on the forum that it is real close to the cover.
Greg

62Falcon390 · « **Reply #22 on:** February 04, 2019, 06:54:22 PM »

thats really cool..

gregaba · « **Reply #23 on:** February 04, 2019, 06:56:12 PM »

Thank You.
Greg

gregaba · « **Reply #24 on:** March 16, 2019, 06:01:55 PM »

I did a mock up of the setup after I cut the intake to fit jayb's adapter.
So far I am real happy with the way It is turning out.
I still might grind the ends of the intake to match the adapter.
Greg

gregaba · « **Reply #25 on:** March 16, 2019, 06:03:42 PM »

Two more pictures.
Greg

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Author Topic: jayb adapter cover (Read 5578 times)