Tire rub in the back has been an issue on the left side. The new leaf springs helped along with the little bit that I rolled the fender, but didn’t solve my problems.
The trusty, semi rusty tape measure showed the rear end needed to shift 1/4” to the right to be centered. I wanted to use 1/2 lowering blocks that could be drilled to get the 1/4”. The downside was losing the 1/2” ride height from the blocks. After much deliberation, I unbolted the housing and rolled it to get at the alignment holes. Then proceeded to elongate them with a die grinder to get the 1/4” I needed and it helped a bunch. After driving about 75 miles, the rear end was sliding over on the elongated holes. So, I pulled the rear end out of the car and welded up the alignment holes in the perches. I’m not that great of a welder, but figured I could do this. Didn’t have any copper, but took a chance with some aluminum and wedged it against the bottom side of the hole. Was able to weld them out and keep the area in the spring perch relatively flat. The new holes to get it centered are drilled. The housing is bolted back in the car now. The bottom side of the car is not clean like it used to be!! I guess that happens when you get to drive it.
While I was trying to decide the best way for me to solve the problem, a buddy at work asked if the mounting pad of the rim could be machined down!! A call to American Racing, and the Tech guy says “yes, it can be machined“. They recommended Baker Blackie Machine Works here in town for the machining and the shop would make the best determination on how much could safely be machined off. The pads are about 11/16” thick, then you subtract the recess for the acorn lug nuts. Which leaves around 1/2”. I settled at taking off .125”. He said it could go more, like up to .200, but it looked like it would be really thin to me. Much more than the 1/8” would have caused issues with the back side of the rim hitting the front calipers. Had all four rims machines. It was a reasonable price and he was spot on for when they would be ready. For what you see of the lug bolt hole, it’s about 3/8” thick to the recess for the acorn nut.
Between centering the rear end and machining the wheels, I hope to be rid of the rubbing. If this doesn't work, I will be forced to roll the fender lips a good bit or convince my wife I need more rims.
Next project is the third member. It was well used and probably abused when I got it, but figured it would get me moving. Loaded it up in the bench vise for inspection. The manual said check back lash in several places, should be .008-.012. Mine ranged from .009-.016!! I can see a ridge toward the valley on the pinion gear too. I will be buying bearings, gears, and plates for the traction lok unit to get it back together. Haven’t pulled it all the way apart to inspect the spider gears yet.
