FE Intake Adapter

[fe66comet]

The green stay brite for outdoor coils is nasty stuff LOL don't leave it on too long, trust me it has a negative effect on anodized coils and will eat holes if not rinsed properly.  But it does work good if used properly and mixed correctly. I just used some the other day to clean concrete off our BOB CAT UTV. The pink evaporator cleaner is much milder and mostly degreaser...Jon

[jayb]

Speaking of which Jay are the plates pretty well going to be lined up with the 4v Cleveland pattern and I just port match or do I send the lower plenum to you to work your magic? I do not have the proper equipment at my disposal to do the work myself anymore.

They are designed to bolt right up to the 351C 4V pattern.  However, most of the manifolds will need some sort of modifications to clear the water passage at the front of the intake adapter.  You can do this with a die grinder or a hacksaw in a lot of cases, and I will also be offering a machining service for some of the intakes if that turns out to be required.

[drdano]

Hi Jay.  Maybe I missed it, but what kind of threads are you planning for where the upper manifolds bolts to the bottom manifold and the valley pan?  Just tapped into the casting or some sort of steel insert?

[fe66comet]

I think I will send the base plate, it is a expensive part and you get one chance. The base alone is almost 500 bucks so it is not worth the risky business of possibly  destroying the lower plenum....Jon

[jayb]

Hi Jay.  Maybe I missed it, but what kind of threads are you planning for where the upper manifolds bolts to the bottom manifold and the valley pan?  Just tapped into the casting or some sort of steel insert?

Right now I'm just planning to tap directly into the aluminum casting.  I've heat treated the manifolds to T6 so the material ought to be strong enough to hold some torque.  I may change that after I get the first one machined and tested.  If the bolts in the manifold won't hold 40 ft-lbs, I will have to go to inserts.

[WConley]

Looking like a good solid start!!  Best of luck getting the machining worked out.

You'll have to post some video of that trunnion table doing its thing while facing the head interface surfaces!

- Bill

[mike7570]

I think this list has been on various forums before but some of you may not have sen it. It's not complete but it interesting to see so many at once.
http://mustangtek.com/FordIntake.html

[427Fastback]

As I am stuck at home healing from my accident I find all of this rather exciting....I need to start researching 351C manifolds......Cory

[babybolt]

In the Mustangtek website, go to the literature section - there are at least three magazines with 427 SOHC articles, including, interestingly one with a clear valve cover.

[fe66comet]

Hey Jay how about flashing LED lights or scrolling letters like in the back of an RV inside your clear covers that would be like fast and furious LOL

[KMcCullah]

The machined surfaces look great Jay! The cast surfaces look good to me also. But I'm more of a cosmetically challenged, chrome don't get ya home kinda guy.
Perhaps a coarse glass bead and a clear coat of VHT?
Back when cattle guards and cross walks were painted on, I used to get the cheap glass beads that were sprinkled in the wet paint. They were coarse and seemed to be tougher than the regular metal finishing glass beads.
Maybe for a slight upcharge you could offer a silver or clear powdercoat?

[fe66comet]

I would say fine grade black beauty would give the same effect, I use it for cleaning aluminum semi trailer parts that get really nasty then coat with clear auto paint in matte or flat. Turns out nice and is way cheaper than bead blast. Before I coat engine parts I run them through the dish washer to remove fine particulates then spray fairly quick before corrosion has a chance to set in......Jon

[Heo]

 I use the beads that are in the White paint
on the roads and they give a Surface like
a new intake
If the aluminium parts is dirty  i first blast them
with ......dont know what its called in English
but its some kind of crushed slag
it gives a wery White and coarse finnish
then i glasbead it and it kind of polish
the Surface and leave a Surface that easy to Clean
Its importand to Clean out the blasting cabinet
from all the slag beacuse if it mix with the beads
it destroy the Surface

I know a long bad spelled message but we have a heatwave
here and im totaly exhausted

[TimeWarpF100]

Both castings in the first photo were shot peened at the foundry, but the darker one was also heat treated prior to shot peening.  So I think I need to do something to improve the appearance of the intakes, because as is they are too dark.  I've never heard that glass beading opens up the pores and reveals defects on a cast aluminum part; are you sure about that Doug?  Glass bead blasting has been done on cast aluminum parts like intake manifolds for years; I can't imagine there's any problem with it.  After I glass beaded the one casting, its appearance improved dramatically and there weren't any defects visible from the process.  In any case though, I don't plan on doing that kind of thing myself, my blast cabinet is definitely not up to that drill.  I just need to find out what should be done...

Jay, Just use a #4 glass bead and it will give you the exact finish you want.

I will get a item # but the stuff I have I was told its what Edelbrock uses in foundry . . .

[jayb]

Thanks, I'd like to have that item number.  If Edelbrock uses glass beads on their manifolds, that's good enough for me.  Although I have been investigating some chemical dip options over the last few days...