Starter recommendations?

[Stangman]

I dont even want to say anything but I have the same starter in my car since I got it back on the road in 2011. Stock new starter from USA. And before that I had my rebuilder make me a starter  he drew the superman logo on it and it was good from 1986 till I lost it during the restoration of my car from 2008 to 2011. So 2 starters in 32 years although my car sat for 10 of those years. But I did race it from 86 till 96 every weekend. I think what Im trying to say is stock ones work if you get it to run properly and have the timing right. Sometimes at the track on hot days in later rounds I got alittle nervous sometimes but only a handful of times it didnt start.

[cjshaker]

So, not an actual internal failure. First thing I'd try is doubling up the positive battery cable.

That doesn't help with heat soak. The resistance is internal, in the starter, as in the windings on the armature. In that case, you could run 2 00 gauge wires and it still wouldn't make a difference.

[FElony]

So, not an actual internal failure. First thing I'd try is doubling up the positive battery cable.

That doesn't help with heat soak. The resistance is internal, in the starter, as in the windings on the armature. In that case, you could run 2 00 gauge wires and it still wouldn't make a difference.

I'll bet it does work. Cables get hot at battery/solenoid when this happens, cluing that their ability to provide enough current to the starter has been exceeded. Numerous stories of guys stepping up the cable size with good results. Doubling cables better yet. I'll look through YT and see if there's anything there.

[happystang]

With the Powermaster starter, twice I've had to slightly clearance the nose housing to keep from hitting the flywheel. Not a big deal, just a few seconds with a die grinder took care of it. I've had pretty good luck with the Powermasters, until I went on Drag Week. When making 200-300 mile trips, it would get heat soaked during a fuel stop and didn't want to engage. I never had that problem on local shorter trips. I switched to the RobbMc mini-starter and never had an issue after that. It's a bit pricey, but a great starter. This on a '69 Mustang with Hooker headers.

I'll try to post a photo of the interference with the Powermaster....if Photobucket will allow me to.


As you can see, the interference is relatively minor, and easily fixed. That shot is before I added some clearance with the grinder.

Doug, the modification on the starter nose seems very minor- I might end up going with Powermaster unit. The RobbMc mini-starter looks amazing, but it is very expensive (as is everything with FE engines!  )

Thank you everyone for the suggestions!

[plovett]

Where are the Powermaster starters made?  Just asking.

paulie

[cattleFEeder]

I think powermaster has its home base in chicago

[plovett]

I think powermaster has its home base in chicago

But what I am wondering is are they made there in Chicago?   Lots of American companies have centers here, but import the products.  I have no idea about Powermaster.  I was just wondering.

paulie

[Drew Pojedinec]

Stangman I agree on stock starters.
I have one in my daily driver. Found it in a junkyard and have been using it over a decade.
That said, I cannot remove it without pulling a header, so when it dies, a mini shall take its place.

[Heo]

I must say i have never had a problem with
a stock starter on a Ford except when they were worn out
Never had a FE Mustang though and there is not often hot around here
Reason i bought a power master was i had no good stock late FE one
But i have had problem with brand new Chevy ministarters on customers cars
they thought they must have a ministarter and bought the cheapest one they
could find because......Hey its so much cheaper to build a Chevy yeaa its
even cheaper if you ride a bicycle .......

[cattleFEeder]

https://www.dragzine.com/features/street-muscle-examines-powermasters-lineup-of-top-quality-starters/
plovett here is your answer

[plovett]

https://www.dragzine.com/features/street-muscle-examines-powermasters-lineup-of-top-quality-starters/
plovett here is your answer

Cool!  Thanks.    I will keep them in mind for my next starter.


paulie

[cammerfe]

FWIW, I have made my own starter cables from 00 welding cable for at least the last 40 years.

Later-model stock-type starters are a problem when using long '63-'64 manifolds. The best 'fix' I came up with for the contact-lug/manifold interference is to cut the lug short and remove all but one of the copper nuts. Use fairly-thin Teflon sheet for an insulator against the starter case, put the cable-end on and one nut. File the lug flat to the nut. That gives about an eighth-or-so clearance. I'd also wedge a piece of the Teflon sheet in the gap for a final bit of insurance.

KS

[fryedaddy]

FWIW, I have made my own starter cables from 00 welding cable for at least the last 40 years.



KS

i have been waiting on someone to mention welding cables.i use it at the starter and to the battery in the trunk.its expensive but it helps.

[Drew Pojedinec]

Man, there was 175ft of very heavy welding cable on my boat.
Safety man flunked it because there was a crack. So we bought new stuff

I had it stashed waiting for a port that was close enough for me to drive home.
Right before that happened a relief engineer that was a real jerk threw it away.
Shame, I was like “battery cables for life!!!”  All batteries go to the trunk!”

[hvywrench]

I have been using a NAPA 44-9204 Premium Plus starter with my long tube headers for several years - no problems starting my stock 427.
I had a custom cable made from the solenoid to the starter, I think it was single 0 cable, tinned copper, with heat wrap over the section next to the headers. Spins right up, hot or cold.
This is the starter that has the connecting tab coming straight off the back end, not a stud off of the side. No interference issues with the headers.
I think the original application was for a '70's pickup with a 390 but can't seem to find it by application now.
If you do an internet search it will also bring up a Wilson part number.
I have had good luck with the higher-end brand of NAPA stuff when I don't have an original Ford part to take to my rebuilder.
Bill