Car Hauler Question

[Posi67]

I'll save you even more money.. skip the sliding side windows. Roof vents are nice but if you have the side escape door then I wouldn't bother. I'm really surprised that these new trailers have what we call "chip board" for interior paneling. One would think that's pretty heavy compared to older trailers that used the thin veneer. My trailer is insulated which seems to help with the heat/cold so you may consider that option.

Jamie's trailer is a 20' with a small V-nose and the front D-rings were pretty much under the bumper of his 64 Comet so he added extras. No idea if that was stock or the way it was ordered. No end to how much you can spend on being fancy but a basic box generally works just as well. Consider how often it will be used and if what you want is re-sellable later. Another friend here just sold his loaded up Pace 40' Gooseneck for $40,000.00 which is more than he paid for it new 15 years ago. Made my trailer look like junk. 

[Rory428]

Like Dale, I don`t like the look of the spread axles either.My 24 foot Wells Cargo has the conventinal axle spacing and has never experianced any sway or tracking issues. I am sure that towing with a F350 Dually and an equalizer hitch contributes to the good towing manners.
Since I bought my trailer used, the D rings were already in position, but it did come with 8 D rings already in the floor, which allowed me to determine which ones fit the best. I find the others handy for securing my pit scooter, generator and fuel jugs. One consideration, but likely not an issue with your Stocker (or 69 Mustang), is how close to the side walls the D rings are. With my old 85 Mustang Stocker, I could use a pair of D rings about 3 feet in front of the rear ramp door, but with the Fairmont, which is back halved and has 13" slicks, I had to use a pair of D rings further back, as the tie down straps would be pulling across the inner sidewalls of the tires. Using D rings closer to the rear door (or closer together) allowed for a straighter pull of the straps.
My trailer does have a roof vent, and it also has a plastic cover that is open and screened on the back side, so I can leave the roof vent open all the time, including towing, with no worry that the wind at freeway speeds will try to tear it off. Jamies new 20 foot Pace that Dale refered to, does not have a roof vent, but it does have a pair of vents mounted to the sides, one on the front, the other at the rear on the opposite side. Maybe something to consider if height issues prevent using a roof vent.
My trailer came with a left side "escape" door, which at first I wasn`t thrilled about, but on a hot day, with all 3 doors open, the airflow going thru the trailer really helps keep the inside cooler. Again, maybe not an issue in your case, but with my Fairmont, I had to make a plywood riser so the the front tires could be elevated high enough so I can open the drivers door into the escape doors opening. Otherwise the bottom of the door would hit the side wall between the top of the trailer fender and the escape doors opening. And speaking of temps inside the trailer, consider color of the trailers outer paneling. I looked at several new trailers before buying my trailer, and on a warm day, the inside temps between a black trailer, and a light color was considerable. I walked from a white trailer, into an otherwise identical black trailer, and could not believe how much hotter the black trailer was inside. On a hot day, take a look in the pits, and you will notice the white trailers generally have smooth straight side panels, while a black trailer will often have major warping of the panels. I am sure that once the sun goes down, the black panels will go flat again, but I have to think all that movement may not be great for how the panels seal to the inner framework or wood.

[cjshaker]

Thanks for the photo!  You have a very nice trailer.  Looks like a pretty large one.  Which brand did you end up getting?  I'm looking at a 20' Pace/Look trailer... .
I guess it's kind of hard to figure out where exactly the car will sit until you get it in there and get the tongue weight you want but I would think D-ring placement shouldn't have to be that precise.  I'm going to see if I can get a shorter (height) trailer so it will go through my 8' high garage door.  Roof vents will make it taller so that's why I don't want them.

It's a 28' U.S. Cargo. When doing a bunch of research into makers, I found that, locally, there are a bunch of different makes, but they are ALL made by the same parent company in the lower western part of Michigan. A Pace or Haulmark, which is what I wanted, would have had to travel half way across the country to get to me, and there were NO local dealers. I don't know about the western U.S. makers.

Yes it's fairly long, but I wanted/needed room for tools, wanted a V nose for aerodynamics, and I wanted enough room in front of the car to throw a small mat down so I could sleep in it and save hotel costs when it's just me. I wish I had the guts to open haul like some guys with really nice cars do, but I wanted to protect my car from weather and thieves. A short open trailer would certainly make turning and lane changing easier!

Loading properly isn't that big a deal. Trailers are designed to be nose heavy anyway, for proper pulling, so as long as the weight of the car is neutral over the axles, or slightly towards the nose, then you're good. With the added weight on the front that mine has from tools and cabinet and an extended nose, I keep my car as far rearward as I can, with the bumper right at the back door and the engine just ahead of the axles, and have had no problems. Like Rory and Dale, I have close axles and have had no issues with sway, even without a stabilizer, but I also pull with an F-350 dualie (although an FE powered 48 year old dualie .

I also got the insulation package, for 2 reasons; one being it does really help with heat/cold, and 2, it keeps the panels from vibrating and slapping when pulling at highway speeds. I figured that couldn't be good on the panels and sealing. I also had them insulate the roof for heat reasons, and double up the roof rafters since mine sits outside in the winter and could get fairly heavy snowfalls on it.

I'm just guessing here, but I don't think there's any way you'll be able to get an enclosed trailer through an 8' garage door. The only ones I've seen that would even come close are trailers designed for rail cars. I'd be amazed if you were able to do this.

[BattlestarGalactic]

The trailer builders will built it any way you want.  I supplied Haulmark with detailed autocad drawings for my trailer when I ordered it back in 1997.  Windows, vents, door, tie downs, etc.

Upgrade anything you can since it is cheaper when it's built then afterwards.  Get BIG axles.   lightweight axles=lightweight tires=TROUBLE!!  Don't skimp there.

Get ONE PIECE roof!!!  The low end trailers are seamed and WILL LEAK sooner then later.

Get plenty of spare tire wells(I see Doug has two).  Cheap and easy storage areas.  I only got one, but it was my first trailer and I learned my lesson after the fact. 

I don't care for the side entrance doors, but can be handy if you don't put a winch in the trailer.

I don't care for the low side panels over the tires either.    Just something to get hung up on if you get too close to a curb or such.  Spread axles?   Ya, will pull straighter, but if you have a decent truck pulling it with the right hitch then a spread is not needed.   My triaxle isn't horrible to turn, yes it does scrub tires but not as bad as you would think. I don't jack knife it tight anyway.  Word of warning, don't ever park you trailer with the tires bound up(in a turn).  It will separate the sidewalls in short order.  Friend unknowingly did this and destroyed all four tires the next trip out.

[Falcon67]

Does it help with sway?  Seems like ATC has gone to all spread axles and their specs shows the axels are 42" apart which means with a 30" tall tire the tires will only be 12" apart.  You would think a small move like that won't cause too much of a tire problem.  If it helps with sway,  I might get that option.

Yes IMHO.  We tow with a 93 F-350 DRW extend cab and the trailer is just at the limit of the truck.  Now, I run a 10K Curt load level hitch with two sway control bars on on it because the extra height of the trailer will push the truck around some.  34' x 8' is a lot of fetch.  Also, we get hella wind around here - see the 1000s of wind turbines in the area. 

Also - if you get the spare tire well(s) - get a rear upper mount for the tire and put "stuff" in the well.  It's not a good place for the spare, unless you like to unload the trailer to get to it.  We nixed the spare tire well and the generator compartment.  More interior storage without the genny compartment.  Besides, the Honda 7000 wouldn't fit in it anyway.  Also - if you ever intend to do things with it at night, get exterior LEDs.  They will run off a house battery or the tow vehicle battery and not get hot or pull big amps like the halogen junk.  And no boxes sticking out inside the trailer.

[afret]

Thanks guys for all the great info and advice.  I got a lot to think about.  LOL

The spare tire wells are great for storage but having a blowout on the way to Pomona one year, I'm glad we had the spare on the wall and didn't have to pull the race car out on the side of the busy freeway. 

Will look into insulation and extra D-rings in the floor and a one piece roof.

Without roof vents, would the side vents be a good alternative?  I'm thinking about condensation in case the trailer is left outside for awhile.

Any of you guys have any experience with a detachable tongue?  Would be helpful if I can get a low trailer into the garage.  And what's the advantage of an extended tongue?

That's a good point about the escape door bottom being too high to open a car door since it has to be higher than the trailer fender.  Got to look into the option of a big escape door with removable fender.  But is an escape door needed with a winch with wireless remote?

Chris, thanks for the photos.  You sure have a super nice setup.

[BattlestarGalactic]

I don't have a side door, and use a remote control winch.  With my vent window open I can steer the car enough to walk it in.  I only have to steer it because of the way my suspension sits, on the bumpstops, and the alignment is off and will pull to one side slightly as it rolls.

Yes, don't put a spare tire in a well that is covered by a car or such.  Mine is right inside the side door and not covered up.  But a rear one could be handy to put chairs and such in.  Stuff you only use after the car is out.

Roof vents are nice, I added the covers on them so they can be open during rain.   If you plan on trying to get this in a garage, then that is not an option.  It adds like 6-8" to the height with those domes.  I have seen those side vents on newer trailers.  Something to think about.  Not sure how much better they are while sitting still?

Here is my trailer:  Nothing too fancy anymore.  This was about 8 yrs ago.   I've put a/c on the roof, the vent covers also.

[Falcon67]

Very nice rig.  I can see how the wagon might be a big harder than most to load LOL.  I just replaced the cheapie 2500 HF winch with a nice Champion 3500 with synthetic rope and wireless remote.  Not cheap, but works really well.  Makes it way easier to load the dragster.  The Falcon - I can just drive that in, stay a bit to the right side and still squeeze out the door.  I highly recommend the synthetic rope over wire. 

We also have beds tied up on the right wall now so we can live it during long races. 

[afret]

I don't have a side door, and use a remote control winch.  With my vent window open I can steer the car enough to walk it in.  I only have to steer it because of the way my suspension sits, on the bumpstops, and the alignment is off and will pull to one side slightly as it rolls.

Yes, don't put a spare tire in a well that is covered by a car or such.  Mine is right inside the side door and not covered up.  But a rear one could be handy to put chairs and such in.  Stuff you only use after the car is out.

Roof vents are nice, I added the covers on them so they can be open during rain.   If you plan on trying to get this in a garage, then that is not an option.  It adds like 6-8" to the height with those domes.  I have seen those side vents on newer trailers.  Something to think about.  Not sure how much better they are while sitting still?

Here is my trailer:  Nothing too fancy anymore.  This was about 8 yrs ago.   I've put a/c on the roof, the vent covers also.

Wow!  You could put three cars in there and have a whole racing team!  I would guess that you don't have to stay at a hotel when your car is at the track.

[cjshaker]

Wow!  You could put three cars in there and have a whole racing team!  I would guess that you don't have to stay at a hotel when your car is at the track.

LOL, especially since he's put a sleeper cab on it since that picture!

This is why talking to people with experience is so valuable. I now carry one spare corded against the wall and use the other for storage. After hearing the comments about removing the car to get to it, I changed things..lol.

[BattlestarGalactic]

I put a 4500# Superwinch in it back in 1997.  Still in it, still works just fine.   They didn't offer the cheapo Harbor Fraud stuff back then.

I have to pull it in, as the doors are SO thick you can't open then even enough to slip your hand through the gap, let alone a body. Yes, it is a 102" trailer.

I bought the box empty(40ft).  I installed 30 gal water tank, pump, bar sink.   dual power frig(120v/gas), dual hot water tank(120v/gas), A/C(with heat grid) on the roof, microwave.  With the 12 ft counter, there is only enough room on the floor for just the wagon.  It is not set up like a real living qtrs trailer(with wall separating the two areas).  I built it over time.  I have a 1978 4K Onan rv genset on the truck for power.

I've been as far away as West Palm Beach, FL, Huntsville, AL, Chicago, Bowling green, PA, NY, MI.  I've wanted to sell the trailer and get a 44ft with real living quarters in it(real shower/bathroom).  When I bought this, it was $12K empty.  To replace it today with some kind of living qtrs it is near $40K.  Ouch.  Likely never happen.

Yes, I did add a bunk to the truck.  The generator is in the diamond plate box under the bunk.


I haven't had to pay for a room for decades now.  Which is really nice at most tracks.  You don't have to pack up, leave, drive to hotel, get up early, drive back, wait in line to get back into track, unload, race, pack up, leave, drive to hotel, etc, etc, etc.

[Posi67]

As you've seen.. I drive my car in and out of the trailer and you could as well. Having a driver side swing out bar on my cage makes it a bit easier to climb out though. I winch the car in and out at home just so I don't have to start it. Skip the side escape door if all you want it for is getting in and out of the car. I like the in floor compartments for storage and wish I had 2 installed. As Rory mentioned, color can be important. White may be boring but a weird color will be harder to sell later.

An extended tongue is helpful if you have a camper on the back of your truck or some use it to add a storage box or generator cabinet to the front of the trailer. A lot depends on how often and how far you plan on towing. You may not get exactly what you want but buying something already in stock at a local dealer may save you some $$. I wish I could store both my truck and trailer indoors but having a cover for the trailer helps over the winter. 

[afret]

As you've seen.. I drive my car in and out of the trailer and you could as well. Having a driver side swing out bar on my cage makes it a bit easier to climb out though. I winch the car in and out at home just so I don't have to start it. Skip the side escape door if all you want it for is getting in and out of the car. I like the in floor compartments for storage and wish I had 2 installed. As Rory mentioned, color can be important. White may be boring but a weird color will be harder to sell later.

An extended tongue is helpful if you have a camper on the back of your truck or some use it to add a storage box or generator cabinet to the front of the trailer. A lot depends on how often and how far you plan on towing. You may not get exactly what you want but buying something already in stock at a local dealer may save you some $$. I wish I could store both my truck and trailer indoors but having a cover for the trailer helps over the winter.

Dale, thank you for the good photos.  I'll see what they charge for the escape door and if it's ridiculous I'll probably skip it and save money.  Is your trailer a Pace?

[Falcon67]

Also - the extended tongue (or "motorhome tongue") will help resale.  Or first 24' box was for sale by owner because the upper corner had been crunched when the PO hooked it to their new motorhome.  Short tongue. 

If we could afford a newer tree-fiddy with more 5th wheel capacity, we may have bought a 42' with bath package.  The upper areas make nice bedrooms with a couple of small windows.  As it was, the 34' was a "early retirement present" - paid using 401K funds so no payment.   Also kind of a necessity - every other track we may visit is 3+ hour drive, so having a way to bed down at a two day or late start race is required.

[BattlestarGalactic]

I drug my 40ft'r around with a '96 F350 just like yours.  460/4.10 gear.  Of course it only got 7 mpg.  It got down the road with no real problems.  Though, in summer of '97 after I got my 40ft trailer I put a Vortech supercharger on it.  WOW...that was a hoot.  Didn't need it, but I got a steal of a deal on it and bolted it on.  Truck ran 15.8's in the 1/4.  That was on the heels of a Lightning of the day.

Picture was with first trip with new trailer.  I was so proud of it!!  21 yrs later and she ain't quite so shiny!