428 CJ

[MHarvey]

I just have my 428 Cobra jet built in LA...not sure I am happy with the results....

Dyno out of car with headers, using a comp cam 33-338-4, 118/224 @ 050, 735 cfm with oversized jets and Pertonix distributor...

Torgue came in at 455 but HP never went over 355...and drops off at 5000 pretty much...

I am checking this weekend what springs he put in it...but I am concerned if the cam is wrong, too lean, or if I have another issue....

Please comment

[Heo]

A/F ratio is a bit rich i think?

[blykins]

I have several things to note.....

A/F ratio shows it's very rich. 

Total timing is about 10° too low.  Total timing on a 428CJ should be 38-40° total. 

Oil pressure is very low, I don't think I've ever seen oil pressure that low.  A standard volume/pressure oil pump in an FE will usually have 65-70 psi in the rpms you're running.  I would be concerned that a galley plug or something was left out. 

Nothing wrong with the valve springs.  The cam is just very small for what you have.  With a 428, factory heads, factory intake, 9.8:1, and a hydraulic flat tappet with 227/229 @ .050" duration, 110 LSA, and .540" lift, I see 420-425 hp here at 5500 rpm, with 450-460 lb-ft.

It's also a 3.980" stroke. 

[Barry_R]

Looks like a stock 428CJ based on the numbers I see. 
I see them between 365-385 pretty often.

I rarely use BSFC, but the A/F numbers are pretty rich and the BSFC backs that up. 
No reason for bigger jets, might have wanted to go the other way.

Probably 20HP in there, maybe even more with some timing thrown at it.
Torque per cube is just a little light at 1.05 per - should be around 1.1 with stock stuff - kinda matches up with the extra 20HP I think is hiding in the tune up.

The spread between peaks looks normal for a near stock engine, might move up a few hundred with some fuel and timing as well.

I will agree that the oil pressure looks low - better check on that right away.

[MHarvey]

Thanks for the comments...the carb has 68/80 jets and I will drop them back to stock...the builder said he rebuilt it and tweeked it....sounds like he over tweeked it.

As for oil pressure...they guy doing the build had a rebuilt (tweeked) oil pump that was pumping over 100 PSI on first run and the dyno guy returned the motor...so he replaced it with a carter....could that be the issue....else..I am not sure where a galley plug is and how to fix/check.

I have heard that cam is too light...what would be a stronger cam....I have the engine out of the car...and easier to replace...I was considering a comp cam 33-230-4 that has 230 at .050 and .530 lift....I will not race this but want the sound and have the HP it should...

Recommendations?  as once I get this installed with any upgrades I will have it dyno' again...

[blykins]

Stick a Melling standard volume pump in it....add a lot more total timing.

If you're wanting a shelf cam, I'd go with a Howards 258021-09.  Ask your builder if the current valve springs will be up to snuff on coil bind clearance.  You will need new lifters as well.  If you're running power brakes, you will be on the edge for enough vacuum, but it will work.


EDITED.....put wrong part number down before.

[My427stang]

I am with the others, if the timing was indeed 28 degrees, add 10 to it, and watch it do better.  Same with leaning it out.  Really odd that the guy made it rich and late, must be REALLY afraid of detonation

I'd also make 100% sure the secondaries were opening, however, I agree, there isn't a lot left with that cam.  However, I will add that that will be a very nice street engine, so don't sell it short if it's going in a C-6 car, power brake car with a tall gear, it'll be a blast

[Drew Pojedinec]

I’d leave the jets alone until the timing to fixed up.

[MHarvey]

I confirmed the springs..they are correct to the cam he put in....the more I think about it I will replace the cam and push for higher HP....and I can use the same springs if I go with the 230 @ .050.   Then reject the carb down....once I confirm the timing...

Anyone concerned with that oil pressure at 40 PSI....I have heard a concern with a missing galley plug...the builder put in a rebuilt pump that was blowing over 100...so he put in a carter...should I upgrade and confirm galley plugs when I pull the cam?

Any other comments...springs ar 926-16.

[blykins]

To my knowledge, Carter does not make oil pumps.

You sure don't need 100 psi but yes, 40 psi at full song does concern me.  Most of the time, a dyno doesn't get the oil good and hot like a nice long drive does.  If you gained a lot more oil temp, that 40 psi would whittle down to even less.

What's odd is that the oil pressure doesn't change, hardly at all throughout the pull.  We normally see it change drastically with rpm.  Could be that you have blown a galley plug out if he didn't tap them and install screw in plugs.  Could be that the oil pump relief is stuck open. 

Of all the things that you show in your dyno sheet, the horsepower surprises me the least......but there is a lot of things that really catch my eye:

1.  Total ignition timing being way low.
2.  Oil pressure being way low.
3.  A/F ratio being rich. 

What kind of hp numbers are you looking for?  What vehicle is it going in?  Transmission?  Rearend gear? 

It could be that the current camshaft is maybe more correct and a larger cam may make it harder on driveability. 

I'd say you'd gain a good 20-30 hp just by putting the A/F ratio and timing where it should be.   Sounds like your builder and dyno guy both need to be thumped in the head one good time.

[FElony]

The correct part number for the cam you have is 33-238-4. This is the XE262H. Comp's description is "Hydraulic-Strong torque, excellent throttle response, heavy towing in 428 with gears" RPM range is 1300-5600. By the description, you got what you paid for. My advice is to go out and tow stuff. Tow it here. Tow it there. Be happy. Sing a song.

[MHarvey]

well...while I am not a numbers guy on the HP...I was expecting 400...and I did tell the guy to give me a cam that had a good sound....but no vacuum issues....guess I should have done more research and gave him the cam I was looking for....and he estimated that cam would hit 400hp and have the sound...yes, he needs a thump and me to for trusting him.

This will go into a 69 Mach 1, 4 speed toploader, stock 3.5 gears...with AC and power brakes.

Sounds like you recommend a new pump...any recommendations...as wells as leaving in the current 218/224 cam.....  Will this cam have the lumpy sound.....

I do not plan on racing it...just a weekend driver....bragging rights,...but it would be nice to get what I pay for...and sound nice...

ideas...comments?

[MHarvey]

I did read the comment on towing...not sure I was planning on towing....just on that alone I want to rip it out...

[blykins]

well...while I am not a numbers guy on the HP...I was expecting 400...and I did tell the guy to give me a cam that had a good sound....but no vacuum issues....guess I should have done more research and gave him the cam I was looking for....and he estimated that cam would hit 400hp and have the sound...yes, he needs a thump and me to for trusting him.

This will go into a 69 Mach 1, 4 speed toploader, stock 3.5 gears...with AC and power brakes.

Sounds like you recommend a new pump...any recommendations...as wells as leaving in the current 218/224 cam.....  Will this cam have the lumpy sound.....

I do not plan on racing it...just a weekend driver....bragging rights,...but it would be nice to get what I pay for...and sound nice...

ideas...comments?

I gave you the recommendation a few times on the oil pump.......Melling M57 standard volume.  Check all the galley plugs.  You can see if the one behind the distributor is in there when you pull the distributor out.  You can also prime the oil pump and listen for any internal gushing. 

The cam is up to you.  It's going to be mild.  It may have a noticeable idle, but it's not gonna sound lumpy and thumpy like you want.  Is it worth going through another cam break-in?  That's up to you. 

If you made 356 hp, you'd most likely gain another 20-30 hp with correct tuning. 

[FElony]

I did read the comment on towing...not sure I was planning on towing....just on that alone I want to rip it out...

You can have the only Mach I on your block with a tow hitch. Just sayin'. Here's is one of my all-time favorite Grassroots YouTube video. 416 inches. Be patient and watch the whole thing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dczh02svKVI

[MHarvey]

thanks...I must have missed the oil pump recommendation...and I have heard the galley plug check....

Will the 230 #.050 have the lumpy I am looking for....that looks like the largest the springs will support....

Really appreciate teh comments.

[Heo]

390 with Comp 294 S cam. 11 inch vaccum don't know
how accurate my vaccum meter is but no problem with
powerbrakes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3qCOEWIrJg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hu0N8MUT1u8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFJOJ9wDWms
It will behave more civiliced in a 428

[blykins]

thanks...I must have missed the oil pump recommendation...and I have heard the galley plug check....

Will the 230 #.050 have the lumpy I am looking for....that looks like the largest the springs will support....

Really appreciate teh comments.

Yes, the 230 @ .050" will sound pretty good. 

[FElony]

280H through exhaust   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpTKA92itXE

[MHarvey]

you know how to hurt a guy....

[Heo]

Sorry my cam is a 282s  236@ .050
I ordered a 294 but got a 282

[FElony]

you know how to hurt a guy....

Yep, you're new here for sure. Anyway, what do you think of the videos that I spent time searching for after I spent time looking for the correct cam number?

Two other factors affect the choppiness of this grind. Headers and lack of a crossover tube will keep it aggressive. Iron exhausts and a crossover will tame it all down. 280H is a great boulevard cam.

[MHarvey]

I just checked...he put a MEL M57...guess I need to check the galley plugs.

[blykins]

If it had 100 psi before I can think of 2 situations....

1.  Oil pressure blew a press in galley plug out.
2.  Relief is stuck open in the Melling.

You should have had 65-70 psi through that pull.

[MHarvey]

good videos...and what I am looking for....

Good feedback on the oil pressure...I will pull the manifold and check for plugs...and review to replace the oil pump.

Thanks for the feedback....

[cjshaker]

I did read the comment on towing...not sure I was planning on towing....just on that alone I want to rip it out...

You can have the only Mach I on your block with a tow hitch.

Maybe on his block, but not the only Mach with a tow hitch. Check out my signature pic
I actually get a kick pointing out to people that it DOES have a trailer hitch. People always look baffled when they see it..lol

[MHarvey]

Under the heading..."you just cannot make this up"....I called the dyno guy....

The fuel setting..he is not sure if his sensors are off...and does not know if he has a leak on one side...and does not look between engine to engine to compare...it gets better....
He says he is not sure if the oil pressure is reading low or not....I asked him why does he have a gauge if he does not review it.  Guess I will buy a guage...
He reports the compression of 9:1 is a pressure guage during the run (that sound right?)
He says the stroke was what he was told...and just entered it....it is wrong for a 428...there is still more...
When I asked him why he ran it twice and why the first was so bad...he says ...he thinks the throttle on this one dropped so he restarted it...go figure the drop.....but the second one is still weak.
The 28 degree timing he said was correct for a small block Ford...and set it that way on the balancer....I had to tell him a 428 was a large block and should be 40ish.......that just might account for the HP--what >20 loss there?

So much for paying for a dyno to diagnose an engine...all results are now suspect..I will replace the cam and take it to someone local once I get it installed in the car....

Comments?

[jayb]

Your dyno guy ought to be shot... 

[blykins]

28 degrees ain’t even right for a small block.

I’d be tempted to take it somewhere else before cracking it back open.

The oil pressure is easy to check.  Put a gauge on the filter adapter and prime the oil pump with an electric drill motor.

[cjshaker]

Your dyno guy ought to be shot... 

Ditto. Not one response there made sense. Checking compression during a run? Um, yeah...ok Like Brent said, I'd be tempted to find out the truth before yanking it apart. Hate to see you go to the expense and trouble if there isn't a need to. I would not trust a single thing that came from that guy, and I'd warn everyone I could to stay away from him.

[Stangman]

Doug your signature pic is different now, could of sworn it was the other one earlier today, boy am I loosing it.

[MHarvey]

as much I should pay the $500 for a retest...that cam was not what I was looking for...I take the blame for not researching and telling him what I wanted.

I should have gone to this forum to validate first .....and am half way to installing the new cam....fixing the carb...

I will install and get it dynod next year....

Thanks all.

[Barry_R]

The 9:1 and oddball stroke numbers are in the "notes" section of the dyno software and will not impact the data at all - that is just a free form area to write stuff - I will often reference the changes from pull to pull there, such as timing or jetting.  You would want to know what stroke and displacement data was input into the actual software data section before making any determination.

We pre-oil very single engine before it ever sees the dyno.  No exceptions.  If they do not get around 70-80 psi on the drill we will find out why before moving ahead.  Every so often I will get one that comes up low on the dyno readout.  Its almost always just an air lock in the gauge line - crack the fitting, crank the engine for a second, and it clears up & everything is normal from there.

Takes me at least three or four full pulls just to find fuel numbers and I have hundreds of FE engines worth of data to fall back on making initial judgements.  Same for timing.  With only one or two pulls you really do not have a dyno session - you have a test fire up and cam break in.  Still might be well worth the effort depending on what you paid for.  A plumber with a Harbor Freight screwdriver in one pocket and an adjustable wrench in the other gets $100+ per hour these days - a dyno can cost over 50 grand before its even installed....

[MHarvey]

you just cannot make this up...I pulled the cam and despite the builder telling me it was a 218/224 comp cam, the part number I pulled out was a CS1102R, designed for towing with an RPM limit of 4200.  NEVER use L&R in LA.

[My427stang]

That's a mild cam, but it's not bone stock either.  It does completely explain a low peak however.

    Duration @ .050":     Intake: 209° Exhaust: 219°
    Advertised Duration:     Intake: 282° Exhaust: 292°
    Valve Lift:     Intake: .484 Exhaust: .511
    Lobe Separation:    112°
    Power Range:     1500-4500
    Idle:     SMOOTH

[Stangman]

I would think pretty good power for a cam that size. I would be more worried about the oil pressure

[MHarvey]

agree on oil pressure...I confirmed all galley plugs are in....I have the intake off and when I get it back on this weekend...and get the oil pressure guage I will run the drill test.

Not sure what else could be the issue other than the pump...comments?

[rockhouse66]

Oil pickup too close to the bottom of the pan?

[WerbyFord]

you just cannot make this up...I pulled the cam and despite the builder telling me it was a 218/224 comp cam, the part number I pulled out was a CS1102R, designed for towing with an RPM limit of 4200.  NEVER use L&R in LA.

With that cs1102r (its 204-214 at .050, a decent but not exact clone for 390gt/428cj stock cam) and 9.0 CR ASSUMING that's what you have, the Gonkulator says:

Torq 460 at 3200
Powr 376 at 4800
I would bet just kicking the timing up to where it should be would get you the 20hp you are missing, as Brent says.

Right now it should sound about like a stock 428cj (they were NOT very rumpety when warmed up), but if you want more, about 230-230-110 on the cam is as high as you would want to go since youre running power brakes. To me, a little Mustang doesn't need power brakes, they just add weight to the front end, but then again to me A/C does that too & just makes it harder to set the timing. But I'm more of a purist.

Up to you!
For YOUR USE, I'd leave that 204-214 cam in there. Given your use, the power brakes & air, more of a cruiser. You will NOT get tired of it because its too big & too ornery in the winter, it will be decent on gas, and remember the 428cj had a pretty good reputation with a very similar cam. And as noted you avoid the risk of breaking in another cam. And a re-dyno.

So again, ASSUMING your compression is really 9.0, you're only down about 20hp & the timing would likely fix that.

If it was me, I wouldn't even spend another $500 on a re-dyno or another $300 on a cam/lifters. Just drive it!
Hit the dragstrip & let your trap speed tell you if the power is there, you're only 20hp away even now.

[falcongeorge]

It's difficult for me to understand why people always push the comp 280H, when the isky 280 mega has considerably more lift and a 2 degree tighter lsa with pretty much the same seat and .050 duration. I guess maybe an FE with more mid range grunt is too scary to contemplate?? 
He who pays the most magazine payola wins...

[falcongeorge]

Comp    280@.006     230@.050  137@.200  .530  110 LSA    106ICL
Isky       280@.006     232@.050  142@.200  ..565  108LSA    104ICL

'Nuff said.

[WerbyFord]

OK here goes the Gonkulator shootout.
I have the Gonkulator running today anyway, wringing out 428 Catalinas as featured in the Dec 2018 Hemmings Muscle.

So here goes: T=Torq P=Power peak
69 Mach, Mharvey car, curb=3710 guess w pspb,ac, full tank, modern street rubber, good granny shifting but not destroying the driveline.

1358-101.8 bone stock 428cj 475T 380P 206-220-116
1378-100.7 434as-dynod 455T 355P 204-214-112 this is what the dyno said. Still not so bad!
1365-101.7 434tuned 460T 376P 204-214-112 same engine/cam you have just tuned up!
1346-103.3 comp280 461T 409P 230-230-110
1342-103.6 isky280 462T 418P 232-232-108   

The Isky will sound meaner, and runs half a carlength better. But, its way into end-stand territory so there's that.
Depends if the couple tenths is worth dealing with a new cam/valve train.
Then again, clean bragging rights of "well over 400hp" would be there, which is what many magazines claim a bone stock 428cj makes.

[falcongeorge]

OK here goes the Gonkulator shootout.
I have the Gonkulator running today anyway, wringing out 428 Catalinas as featured in the Dec 2018 Hemmings Muscle.

So here goes: T=Torq P=Power peak
69 Mach, Mharvey car, curb=3710 guess w pspb,ac, full tank, modern street rubber, good granny shifting but not destroying the driveline.

1358-101.8 bone stock 428cj 475T 380P 206-220-116
1378-100.7 434as-dynod 455T 355P 204-214-112 this is what the dyno said. Still not so bad!
1365-101.7 434tuned 460T 376P 204-214-112 same engine/cam you have just tuned up!
1346-103.3 comp280 461T 409P 230-230-110
1342-103.6 isky280 462T 418P 232-232-108   

The Isky will sound meaner, and runs half a carlength better. But, its way into end-stand territory so there's that.
Depends if the couple tenths is worth dealing with a new cam/valve train.
Then again, clean bragging rights of "well over 400hp" would be there, which is what many magazines claim a bone stock 428cj makes.

Don't misunderstand, I'm not saying the isky is what he should run, I am saying that IF he insists on going to a 280ish cam the Isky is superior to the comp 280H, and the cams are directly comparable.
I am not recommending EITHER 280 cam for his combo, I think both are too much cam for the rest of his combo. But comparing the comp to the isky, the isky is better in every way, and the narrower LSA will help crutch the inadequate (for a 280 cam) static compression. An Isky 270 mega would probably be a better choice in an off the shelf cam, it was the op that brought up overcamming it, and several guys jumped on the comp 280 bandwagon, my point was that if that's the way he wants to go, there's a far better choice in 280@.006 hydraulics than the comp. FWIW, that ship has already sailed,he mentions on another thread that he has bought the comp. It seems listening to videos on YouTube is the #1 "method" of cam "selection".

[WerbyFord]

Don't misunderstand, I'm not saying the isky is what he should run, I am saying that IF he insists on going to a 280ish cam the Isky is superior to the comp 280H, and the cams are directly comparable.
I am not recommending EITHER 280 cam for his combo, I think both are too much cam for the rest of his combo. But comparing the comp to the isky, the isky is better in every way, and the narrower LSA will help crutch the inadequate (for a 280 cam) static compression. An Isky 270 mega would probably be a better choice in an off the shelf cam, it was the op that brought up overcamming it, and several guys jumped on the comp 280 bandwagon, my point was that if that's the way he wants to go, there's a far better choice in 280@.006 hydraulics than the comp.

Well said & agreed. I also find wide LSA cams to be more soggy. LSA is usually made wide either for good idle, emissions, or gas mileage, or even for extreme top end or blower apps, not the case for this OP. The only other thing is those vanilla iron FE heads don't respond much to the lift over .500 or so, so the extra Isky lift is kinda wasted unless the heads are prepped for it. Either way for the OP's usage I'd just leave the cam he has in there.

[falcongeorge]

FWIW, for this guys deal, I like the 276@.006 custom cam that Lykins used in his near stock 428cj a little farther down the page. For an off the shelf cam with a little chop to the idle, the isky 270 would also be a good choice. It's not totally clear, but I think the op is  running an auto with a stock converter, a.c. and pb, I think either 280 is going to give him a fair amount of grief. The stock converter will dictate a low idle speed, the a.c. compressor adds a healthy load on the motor at idle, and the pb  dictate the need for a good stable vacuum signal. All this adds up to a not very pretty picture.

[My427stang]

To me, LSA is just a number used to order the cam grind, but Werby is still 100% right, less overlap gives up power.

To me, on a relatively stock FE, I'd be adding some split to whatever cam put me where I wanted to be, and use LSA to control overlap as required.   Although I use both single pattern and dual pattern cams, a CJ almost always likes a bit more exhaust

I am running into the overlap choice decision on a 461 CJ right now, I have lots of room on the build, except for a single thing, power brakes.  It is forcing me to go wider than I would normally prefer, but it's a very rare car and adding vacuum pumps or cans to the car is not an option.

I forgot what Brent used, but it was likely a very sharp choice.

[falcongeorge]

To me, LSA is just a number used to order the cam grind, but Werby is still 100% right, less overlap gives up power.

To me, on a relatively stock FE, I'd be adding some split to whatever cam put me where I wanted to be, and use LSA to control overlap as required.   Although I use both single pattern and dual pattern cams, a CJ almost always likes a bit more exhaust

I am running into the overlap choice decision on a 461 CJ right now, I have lots of room on the build, except for a single thing, power brakes.  It is forcing me to go wider than I would normally prefer, but it's a very rare car and adding vacuum pumps or cans to the car is not an option.

I forgot what Brent used, but it was likely a very sharp choice.

The whole spurious argument that got started on Speedtalk over whether valve events should be discussed in terms of overlap or duration/LSA is arguing over semantics, the numbers come out the same., I have zero interest in debating semantics, I'm interested in numbers.

If we want to argue over the semantics, what we should do is go back to describing cams in terms IO, IC, EO, and EC, like they used to do.  That would sure narrow down the number of guys posting on cam threads in a hurry.

[My427stang]

To me, LSA is just a number used to order the cam grind, but Werby is still 100% right, less overlap gives up power.

To me, on a relatively stock FE, I'd be adding some split to whatever cam put me where I wanted to be, and use LSA to control overlap as required.   Although I use both single pattern and dual pattern cams, a CJ almost always likes a bit more exhaust

I am running into the overlap choice decision on a 461 CJ right now, I have lots of room on the build, except for a single thing, power brakes.  It is forcing me to go wider than I would normally prefer, but it's a very rare car and adding vacuum pumps or cans to the car is not an option.

I forgot what Brent used, but it was likely a very sharp choice.

The whole spurious argument that got started on Speedtalk over whether valve events should be discussed in terms of overlap or duration/LSA is arguing over semantics, the numbers come out the same., I have zero interest in debating semantics, I'm interested in numbers.

If we want to argue over the semantics, what we should do is go back to describing cams in terms IO, IC, EO, and EC, like they used to do.  That would sure narrow down the number of guys posting on cam threads in a hurry.

I promise I am not that guy, and I don't enter those fights....and wasn't my intent, but happy to discuss cams however you want.  Heck, I am the guy talking oil ring math on Speedtalk right now and can't get anyone to engage

My only point is that if I give advice, I have to talk valve events and the effects of those events.  LSA doesn't let me, I have to back into it.  Heck, I am having a hard time managing overlap with a 114 LSA cam causing me fits for the stroker to get it where I want. 

So if someone wants to talk cam behavior with me, I have to get to cam events, even if we push it back to LSA when done.  However, now it sounds like I am discussing semantics again.   Forums are a tough place, in the end, I really really REALLY don't care about anyone else's semantics, I promise!

In the end, you likely know me well enough from this forum that I don't have any desire to argue with anyone, so I sure won't pick a fight.  I am the "love and respect everyone" guy LOL  If it sounded any different, I apologize

[falcongeorge]

Speedtalk was an awesome place back then, with a LOT of very knowedgable guys way above my pay grade, but man, there was some MAJOR  league dick waving! I sat through that thread that started the whole LSA/LDA/overlap rumpus in real time, IIRC it went to twenty some odd pages.
The point is, if you have either 1) duration LSA and ICL, or 2) duration, cam advance and overlap, and you have them at the same check height, you can calculate the valve events of any two camshafts. Neither one is "superior" or "more correct", they are just two different methods of arriving at the same numbers, IO,IC,EO,EC. There was a HUUUUGE argument over this on Speedtalk around 2001 or 2002, it was actually pretty funny. I just sat it out, I think I might have made one post on the entire thread.

[My427stang]

Speedtalk was an awesome place back then, with a LOT of very knowedgable guys way above my pay grade, but man, there was some MAJOR  league dick waving! I sat through that thread that started the whole LSA/LDA/overlap rumpus in real time, IIRC it went to twenty some odd pages.
The point is, if you have either 1) duration LSA and ICL, or 2) duration, cam advance and overlap, and you have them at the same check height, you can calculate the valve events of any two camshafts. Neither one is "superior" or "more correct", they are just two different methods of arriving at the same numbers, IO,IC,EO,EC. There was a HUUUUGE argument over this on Speedtalk around 2001 or 2002, it was actually pretty funny. I just sat it out, I think I might have made one post on the entire thread.

I agree completely

[MHarvey]

I just primed the oil pump via the disty...and the guage did not show any pressure...all dashes on a digital and I did not see oil running...I felt the resitance on the drill but no oil flow...

Is my grear fallen low or ...what....

[MHarvey]

false alarm...replaced the sensor and joy...and that was the sensor the dyno guy used to give me 40...it was pushing 65 with a new sensor....you just cannot make this stuff up.

[My427stang]

false alarm...replaced the sensor and joy...and that was the sensor the dyno guy used to give me 40...it was pushing 65 with a new sensor....you just cannot make this stuff up.

Glad to hear it worked out, as a technique, I have a master gauge, mechanical, with all kinds of adapters that I use when I prime.  It's purpose built from Snap-on, but for years I just used a quality mechanical gauge with a grease gun hose attached.   Always good to have a second opinion or a trusted gauge in times like you have experienced