Rocker arm suggestions

[happystang]

I ended up ordering a pair of new Sealed Power rocker shafts, I did some research and I'm assuming mine are caked with grease (as aforementioned in a previous post). At $25 each, I think it's cheap insurance!

I see both rocker end supports as well as rocker stands that replace the stock aluminum ones. Is there a kit that sells them both? Since I'm essentially starting fresh with new rocker shafts, I'm tempted to splurge and do it right the first time 

[My427stang]

I agree, although a new set of purpose-built hyd only rockers sounds REALLY good for a couple healthy 462 builds I have coming up and wouldn't hurt here

However, I disagree that an old set of adjustables are right for this, (or even a new set or adjustable rollers).  Stock hyd rockers for a cam that size would be lighter, zero maintenance, and with the minor difference in lift (under 2%) and off-seat duration at the valve, no downside to me combined with lots of good by going with non-adjustable.  Simply, lighter, Mo' cheap and mo' easy

He's using a hydraulic cam, so where is the "maintenance" needed? Set the preload and you're done. Spending a couple hundred dollars to replace parts that he already has, that will work fine, is not cheaper. Lighter? Look at the specs on his cam card. It has an RPM range to 5600. A few grams are not going to make any difference.

Well, I won't argue that if the rockers hold their adjustment, your statement is correct.  But that's an IF, and once a stocker is run down too tight, they aren't as tight as they were originally. 

I promise I am far more of a cheapskate than you, ask Brent LOL, but I haven't seen too many tight 50+ year old adjusters, and if he hasn't bought pushrods, it's an easy swap.  If he has bought pushrods, I'd push him to buy the lock nuts if you can still get them.

As far as weight, everything makes a little difference, is it a problem? no, but we get rid of factory two piece retainers, etc.  Reducing weight lets the spring work better, that's true for a Briggs & Stratton or a Formula 1 engine.  However, I do agree, it's not as critical as his performance level, but also would depend on actual spring pressure for his setup whether it would help at 5600 with heavy roller lifter components and relatively heavy valves.  BTW, that RPM range is a cam grinder's WAG, but shift point will be always be above peak HP, so that's where we want to make sure the springs behave.  I know I am preaching to the choir, but lighter parts can only help if they are strong enough

Additionally, if he didn't buy pushrods, even the length checker he will need to buy is cheaper and easier to find with ball/ball, and could easily be built with an old hollow pushrod.  not a crisis LOL but another input

In fact, I'd consider three things that could be considered good options on a budget

1 - Save the money on the middle stands, only buy end stands.  The middle stands won't misbehave at all
2 - If he didn't buy pushrods already, I'd go stock hyd rockers and ball/ball and sell the adjustables to offset cost
3 - If he has pushrods, I'd use the offset of not buying the center stands to buy lock nuts for the adjustable rockers

All are viable options and all are correct, but if you can't tell, I don't hate stock adjustables, but I don't love them without lock nuts. In fact, I am surprised Ford did it that way, but nobody expected these cars to still have parts in use 50 years later

[cammerfe]

It used to be possible to go to the boneyard and get a double-handful of adjustment screws and locknuts from a Y-block to substitute for the interference fit screws found on FEs. If I remember right, I'd get the whole works for a dollar or so.

I used the 'fine' wheel on my bench grinder to make a flat on the rocker arm and called it good. Y-blocks used a screwdriver slot instead of a hex to move the screw, but it was easily learned---I ran a 312 before I got my first FE. (We made the adjustment screws for FEs at T&C Livonia and they were only case-hardened. Y-block screws were through-hardened. I'd look at my 'new' handful but most seemed to be in good shape on the ball-end.)

KS

[Heo]

 Last time i used a ordinary hand file to knock down the high spots
a verry underapreciated tool 4-5 strokes with a sharp file, voila done